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Author Topic: 6/1 Metro at auction in NY  (Read 16344 times)

Ghoul

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Re: 6/1 Metro at auction in NY
« Reply #15 on: November 01, 2011, 02:24:39 PM »
The weather was beautiful when it started.  But by noon there was about two inches of snow on my hat.
I have no idea how long it has been sitting.   Is there can anyone recommend any steps to take besides changing the oil before I try to start it.  I have a few ideas but I don't want to miss anything.  Also,  as a Cooling setup it looks wrong to me.  Cooling tank is sitting at the same level as the engine. With the lower hose going down to the bottom of the tank and the upper hose straight to the top. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

Ghoul

dieselgman

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Re: 6/1 Metro at auction in NY
« Reply #16 on: November 01, 2011, 04:55:08 PM »
What engine did you purchase? The CS convection system situates the tank slightly above the engine base with lower hose straight horizontal and upper hose angled well above top of engine.

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Quinnf

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Re: 6/1 Metro at auction in NY
« Reply #17 on: November 01, 2011, 04:58:48 PM »
I take it you got that engine at the auction?  Congrats.  A pic or two of the installation would help.  First of all, I'm concerned, too, about the height of the cooling tank.  Most of these engines are cooled by thermosiphon, which means that the surface of the water in the cooling tank has to be located well above the engine to allow hot water to rise in the upper hose  and cooler water to descend from the bottom of the tank.  If there are any dips in the hoses, especially the upper hose, then coolant flow won't occur.  If the water level is below the top of the outlet of the upper hose into the tank, no flow will occur.  Some engines were fitted with centrifugal water pumps run off the crankshaft.

But just to start the engine, it won't matter whether the cooling system is set up correctly.  Make sure the engine is bolted down to something solid, look in the access door and make sure everything looks good inside (no rats nests or tools stored in there).  Oil level should be within 1/4 to 1/2" of the bottom of the bottom of the connecting rod and the dipper should be mostly immersed in oil.  Crank the engine over with the compression released and listen for any odd noises.  The lever on the fuel rack should be down for run, up for shut off.  With the lever down, you should hear a distinct ping, creak, tink, or whatever onomatopoetic term you think is appropriate as the fuel injector fires.  If you don't hear that sound you need to bleed air out of the fuel lines.  Start from the tank and loosen each fitting in turn and make sure fuel leaks out, with no air bubbles.  Expect to make a mess.  Once you get to the injector pump, loosen the nut on top and crank the engine over.  If fuel leaks out with every other turn of the crankshaft, tighten the nut down, then loosen the nut where the  high pressure fuel line connects to the injector.  Continue cranking the engine over until fuel leaks out at that connection.  Then tighten the nut.  Continue cranking (by now your arm will be getting tired/sore.  It'll be worse tomorrow morning).  Don't hear any ping/tink/crak/etc?  Repeat until you do.  If no fuel flows from the fuel pump, remove the nut and delivery valve from the top of the pump and slowly crank the engine over until you see fuel flowing from the top of the pump.  All the foregoing is easier to do when the fuel tank is full.  If the tank isn't very full, there may not be enough head to cause fuel to flow.  Especially if it's cold.  This process may take you 1/2 hour or even more until you get all the bubbles out.  Eventually you'll hear the magic sound.  Spin the flywheel over rapidly, drop the compression release and you should be rewarded with puffs of dense, fragrant black smoke.  Be ready to flip the fuel rack lever off (up) in case the governor sticks or isn't set correctly and the engine overspeeds.  This engine is made to run at 650 rpm.  If you don't have a tach, that means exhaust pulses will occur about as fast as you can say "one-two-three-four" without tripping over your tongue.  

Rotsa Ruck and check back here if you have any more problems.

Quinn
« Last Edit: November 01, 2011, 05:49:32 PM by Quinnf »
Ashwamegh 6/1, PowerSolutions 6/1 "Kit" engine, and a Changfa R175a that looks like a Yanmar I once knew

dieselgman

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Re: 6/1 Metro at auction in NY
« Reply #18 on: November 01, 2011, 06:01:25 PM »
Your engine relies on splash lubrication, you can also help matters somewhat by lubricating the cam bushing through the access plug on top of the block next to the valve lifters. When filling your oil, if yours has the classic Lister double sump, then fill the lower sump to the dipstick mark and put enough in the upper splash tray for the conrod dipper to be fully immersed at the bottom of its travel.

BTW - convection and thermosyphon are synonymous in this cooling system context.

dieselgman
« Last Edit: November 01, 2011, 06:04:04 PM by dieselgman »
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38ac

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Re: 6/1 Metro at auction in NY
« Reply #19 on: November 02, 2011, 01:22:56 AM »
A picture from the auction site. Hard to tell for sure from this angle but it looks to me like the cooling tank will work, maybe not ideal but should work OK. As long as the warmed water it not expected to run down hill or the cooled water up hill and the water level iin the tank is higher than the top of the engine it should circulate OK. The tank on my Dursley 6/1 is like that, level runs in and out of the block, and works fine.
« Last Edit: November 02, 2011, 11:53:50 AM by 38ac »
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contaucreek

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Re: 6/1 Metro at auction in NY
« Reply #20 on: November 02, 2011, 10:45:18 AM »
C'mon Butch spend a few buck$ and upgrade your account already  ;D
L.E.F. Dip #1 Threadstopper Extraordinaire

38ac

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Re: 6/1 Metro at auction in NY
« Reply #21 on: November 02, 2011, 11:53:14 AM »
Good greif, first time for that, LOL
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Ghoul

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Re: 6/1 Metro at auction in NY
« Reply #22 on: November 02, 2011, 02:54:10 PM »
Thank you for all your advice... I will let you know how I make out ... I'm on my way to pick it up now. I will post pictures of the cooling set up   Any advice would be great  Thanks again

dieselgman

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Re: 6/1 Metro at auction in NY
« Reply #23 on: November 04, 2011, 12:28:39 AM »
What did she cost you?

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Ghoul

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Re: 6/1 Metro at auction in NY
« Reply #24 on: November 04, 2011, 08:34:52 PM »
It cost me $700.00 
:)
I think it was a good deal.

dieselgman

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Re: 6/1 Metro at auction in NY
« Reply #25 on: November 04, 2011, 08:55:14 PM »
Very nice!  Wish there were more around like that.

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Ghoul

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Re: 6/1 Metro at auction in NY
« Reply #26 on: November 04, 2011, 10:37:34 PM »
I need to lift the cooling tank about 20" or change it out and build a platform. Also,
I live in upstate NY and it does get cold... What kind of oil should I use..... SAE 30 ?
-Joe

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Re: 6/1 Metro at auction in NY
« Reply #27 on: November 04, 2011, 10:48:42 PM »
I use Rotella 15W40, oil technology has come a long way since the original CS's were built.
BioDiesel Brewer

dieselgman

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Re: 6/1 Metro at auction in NY
« Reply #28 on: November 04, 2011, 10:57:21 PM »
We also use multi-weight diesel oils - DELO except during break-in of new engine. 15-40 is good.

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cgwymp

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Re: 6/1 Metro at auction in NY
« Reply #29 on: November 06, 2011, 12:32:51 PM »
We also use multi-weight diesel oils - DELO except during break-in of new engine. 15-40 is good.

Dieselgman

What are you using for breakin?

Cheers!
Listeroid 8/1