Author Topic: Mothballing a diesel  (Read 4543 times)

clytle374

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Mothballing a diesel
« on: June 21, 2011, 12:35:23 AM »
I have a Kohler (Lombardini) 11hp engine that I need to take out of service of some unknown period of time.  The engine only has around 20 hours on it.

What is the best way to prepare and store the engine?

Sorry it's a highspeed, but don't know who else to ask

Thanks
Cory
 

tiger

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Re: Mothballing a diesel
« Reply #1 on: June 21, 2011, 02:03:52 AM »
fresh oil change, full tank of fuel,( diesel with out moisture will keep for years) and last but most important a few drops of oil in combustion chamber and BOTH VALVES ON EACH CYLINDER IN THE CLOSED POSITION! Even to the point of removing push rods or rocker arms if necessary.
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dieselgman

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Re: Mothballing a diesel
« Reply #2 on: June 21, 2011, 04:25:26 AM »
Store in protected environment if possible... temperature controlled, or at least away from freeze/thaw cycles. Seal inlet and exhaust openings against rodent incursions.

We have seen many stored engines damaged by water getting into the internals and also by rodents or insects deciding that your engine would make a great shelter.  >:(

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ronmar

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Re: Mothballing a diesel
« Reply #3 on: June 21, 2011, 03:07:34 PM »
What typically kills small engines, such as the generator you bought for that big power outtage, ran for 2 days, and havn't touched for 2 years, is internal moisture.  There is moisture in the air.  With temperature cycles, the case breathes thru the crankcase vent.  The moisture in the air then condenses on the internal surfaces, like morning dew on the grass, and the bearings and journals and rings and cylinder quietly corrode out of sight.  So after setting a few years, you have another big storm and power outtage, and crank up the old genny, which throws a rod about 45 minutes into the run... "cheap POS box store generator!"  Lawnmowers that use the same basic engines, last a good long time because they typically get used half of the year:)

In addition to the oil and fuel system suggestions, Find the case vent and cap it.  Better still is to attach a dessicant filled container that is capped.  The dessicant will attract moisture in the case air and trap it in the dessicant.  If you use indicating dessicant, it will tell you the relative humidity inside the case by it's color. It is dark indigo blue when dry, and slowly turns light pink as it absorbs moisture.  I buy the inexpensive clear plastic in-line filters and pour in the dessicant around the outside of the filter element, and cap that port with a rubber vacume cap.  The other port that connects to the inside of the filter, I connect to the vent.  I use these on my hydraulic reservoirs and tractor gearbox vent to keep internal condensation in check in those systems that do not get hot enough to drive off the moisture in the oil.  I put a small pinhole in the rubber vacume port cap to allow the tank to breath once enough pressure is built up to overcome the resistance presented by the pinhole...  But any air that comes in or out passes thru the dessicant.  For a layup situation, I would not put a hole in the cap.  I will post a picture of one of these later.

I have heard of some layup procedures where the air in the case is purged with dry nitrogen to get rid of that moisture, prior to sealing the vent...

Here are some pics of the dessicant filters I make.


Closeup.


Saturated with moisture.


When saturated, I remove the rubber cap, shake out the pellets and nuke them on a paper towel.  Cooks the moisture out and restores them to dark blue ready to use condition...
« Last Edit: June 22, 2011, 02:32:21 AM by ronmar »
PS 6/1 - ST-5.

clytle374

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Re: Mothballing a diesel
« Reply #4 on: June 27, 2011, 12:52:20 AM »
Thanks a bunch for the advise. 

Cory