Author Topic: 6/1 head torque  (Read 17069 times)

Grael

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Re: 6/1 head torque
« Reply #15 on: February 05, 2011, 02:52:02 AM »
Alright, sounds good guys. I got all the stuff lined up here ready to go tomorrow.  ;D
GTC 8-1

"Traveling 33 RPM in an iPod world"

Tijean

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Re: 6/1 head torque
« Reply #16 on: February 05, 2011, 04:09:01 AM »
My 12/2 metro was 170 ft/lb on head bolts, do not forget to torque and seal the studs int the block mine were loose and sloppy, precluding getting any kind of proper torque. use a stud wrench or double nut each stud and torque to what ever you deem proper for your engines head nuts then install head and set the head nuts the same. good luck

I know there can be a problem with coolant leakage past the lower end of the studs and into the oil but I think you should not try to prevent it by forcing the stud into the crankcase. Thread sealant is required. You stand a chance of damaging either the threads in the crankcase, on the stud, or both and risk splitting the casting if you crank it in to refusal
 Locktite blue would do or anaerobic setting pipe dope.
Frank

10/1 Jkson, ST5 gen. head

cgwymp

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Re: 6/1 head torque
« Reply #17 on: February 05, 2011, 03:38:24 PM »
I know there can be a problem with coolant leakage past the lower end of the studs and into the oil but I think you should not try to prevent it by forcing the stud into the crankcase. Thread sealant is required. You stand a chance of damaging either the threads in the crankcase, on the stud, or both and risk splitting the casting if you crank it in to refusal
 Locktite blue would do or anaerobic setting pipe dope.

Indeed -- IIRC, the general guideline for studs is to install not much more than hand tight. You want the load spread out along all the threads, and if you screw the stud in too tight then the load is concentrated one end or other of the threads. And yes, you'll want some sort of sealant. I generally install studs with blue Loctite....
Listeroid 8/1