Author Topic: removing contamination-carbon  (Read 30950 times)


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Re: removing contamination-carbon
« Reply #15 on: May 28, 2008, 09:58:53 AM »
cold comfort farm,

Hi, where are you?  I am in Lincolnshire.  BTW, I am not Oliver - I just own a 90 (and about a dozen other Olivers)

I just read the link at the top of this thread (the part re glycol, and the way it leads to engine failure).  Wondered how good it might be as a flocculant in this application. 

Link says as little as 0.4% coolant contamination, so presumably 0.2% shoud be enough to do something, given time.  i would think1% and lower might give an indication of likely assistance in coagulating the solids.  It might just make a mess, like it does of the engine!  It might need heat to speed up the effects. 

It was just that the mode of engine failure seemed to indicate some possibilities for cleaning up used engine oil - as long as all the glycol is removed if anyone thinks it looks good enough to use again as a lubricant!  There are, of course, other similar compounds to ethylene glycol that might work as well, or better, and not be harmful.  It might be a way of using up old antifreeze as well as old oil!!!

Regards, RAB

cold comfort farm

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Re: removing contamination-carbon
« Reply #16 on: May 28, 2008, 11:02:37 AM »
Sorry I was being idle on typing your post name "Oliver90owner"  lol.

I am in Misty Derbyshire. I have a Lister CS 3hp and a Lister Petter genset (when I pick it up on friday)

I will put some old oil in a jam jar a bit of glycol and give it a good shake then leave it a month or two see what happens.  As a control I will just sit another jam jar full of untreated oil next to it.

If it cleans then I will look at the next stage of seeing what comes out the exhaust.  My freindly garrage will put  it on his emmisions meter.  We may as well gat true facts and figures rather than say dont do it. It becomes an informed choice then.



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Re: removing contamination-carbon
« Reply #17 on: May 28, 2008, 05:25:52 PM »
Why not just use baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) in the water wash and capture both the acidic and caustic components at the same time.  A handful to a gallon of water or so should be plenty.  You're performing a simple extraction of anything hydrophilic into a buffer.  Settle out the bicarbonate wash, then water wash to remove any residual bicarbonate and check the pH of the wash water to make sure the bicarbonate is completely removed.  At the worst, you'd expose your oil to a pH of around 8.0 instead of the pH extremes that acid and caustic washing would entail. 

Ashwamegh 6/1, PowerSolutions 6/1 "Kit" engine, and a Changfa R175a that looks like a Yanmar I once knew


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Re: removing contamination-carbon
« Reply #18 on: May 30, 2008, 12:37:46 AM »
I read all this with a bit of agony.  Wouldn't you end up with more free time if you worked for minimum wage and used the money to buy store bought diesel at $6/gal?

I've got waste oil with water and other junk in it here gravity settling.  This process takes years.  I cannot imagine adding water to it now and re-agitating it.  It would be several years again before I could use it.  Life is too short and 'spare time' is WAY too precious to waste.
-DIY 1.5L NA VW diesel genset - 9 kW 3-phase. Co-gen, dualĀ  fuel
- 1966, Petter PJ-1, 5 kW air cooled diesel standby lighting plant
-DIY JD175A, minimum fuel research genset.
-Changfa 1115
-6 HP Launtop air cooled diesel
-Want Lister 6/1
-Large DIY VAWT nearing completion


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Re: removing contamination-carbon
« Reply #19 on: June 24, 2008, 12:00:19 AM »
If you're really into doing this, do what the oil industry has been doing for aeons... A centrifuge spun by the engine... works very, very well and it's nearly fool proof! You have no clue how much oil has been pumped out of the ground using crude or waste oil run through a centrifuge without any ill effects. I'd be very skeptical about running any form of acid through the injection hardware as eventual scarring could happen whereas, if you run the fuel through a centrifuge (clay is also an incredible fuel cleaner and polisher) everything you don't want going through the engine is discarded.


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Re: removing contamination-carbon
« Reply #20 on: November 26, 2010, 04:17:45 PM »
I picked up a pair of 275 gallon home heating oil tanks fom a local biodiesel maker. He picked up used fry cook oil from the local restaurants, and made biodiesel in his garage. He had a very well thought out operation and ran his final biodiesel product thru toilet paper filters using a small gear pump. He used Motorguard filter canisters that hold a toilet paper roll. I found them marketed for auto painters, to final clean the compressed air before it passes thru the paint gun. Same unit they used to sell for motor oil, sometimes the pipe fitting size is larger for air service.
Anyway, he triple filtered his new fuel to remove the glycirine and lye drop out, and was happy with it.
My plan is to dillute my WMO with diesel, then run it thru the filter a few times to see what happens. The cellulose (toilet paper) will absorbe quite a lot of water, and filter down to 1 micron. That should render it safe for the engine?
Ashwamegh 25/2 & ST12
Lister SR2 10Kw 'Long Edurance' genset on a 10 gallon sump/skid,
Onan 6.5NH in an old Jeager Compressor trailer and a few CCK's