Listeroid genset anchor scheme

[mike90045]

OK, I should have floated this here a month ago, but the plans ended up happening very fast, and here's what I've got.

Listeroid genset, on a I beam frame, bought as a unit, and there seems to be no good way to anchor it down.  My metal buddy came up with this scheme, of straps to go over the existing I beam frame, trapping it in place.
The I beam frame sits on a rectangle of plywood, which is on top of a 1" thick rubber stall mat.

We plan to drill 6" into a 8" slab, a 1" hole, and use SIMPSON anchor bolt epoxy to secure a 5/8" di,  8"  length of all-thread. 8 holes with anchor bolts total.   Better epoxy to use ?  grout ? Lead anchor ?

What's a good choice of material for the all thread that won't sheer right off?  SS   grade 4,  grade 6, grade 8 ?   What kind of nut - same as the bolt material ?  I plan to top it off with a nyloc nut so it wont work loose.

[billswan]

Mike

I use the lead looking anchors but cannot recommend them as I have one of four that is constantly loosening up.

Try the epoxy is my thought, I have not but my son in law says it is great stuff.

Billswan

[Tijean]

Mike, if you are going to go 1" hole, go with 3/4 all thread. Epoxy rather than lead IMO. If there is rubber underneath I would try to incorporate rubber under the hold down straps. Cut away the plywood and rubber for a sleeve or washers around each anchor bolt so that the strap is torqued down tight without distorting the stud. This will keep the stud from being flexed in operation which is the main cause of breakage. Continuous stress one direction= good; stress reversals = metal fatigue = bad!

[Veggiefuel]

Mike,

I agree with tijean, if you are going to strap it or bolt it down, then get rid of the rubber.
The flexing with each power stroke will allow the mounts to move. Even a flex of .020" with each bump will eventually ruin the fasteners.

veggiefuel

[Tom]

Mike, Sometimes epoxy and oil just don't mix. If it were me, I'd check with the vendor before using it.

[listerboy]

Check out these links for anchor bolt selections;

http://www.directindustry.com/prod/unisorb/anchor-bolt-for-machine-tools-37039-243318.html

http://www.directindustry.com/prod/unisorb/heavy-duty-anchor-bolt-37039-243317.html

A tutorial;

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/h2anchorconcrete

[mike90045]

Well, last weekend, got the engine lifted up (again) and pulled the cow mat out, and set her back down, then marked and started to drill the concrete for the hold downs. But I ran out of steam, and my back couldn't take anymore, so there are 7 dimples, and 1, 2" deep hole.

 Pics are in the last half of the album:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2030711&id=1196643274&l=76eb578eb0

also, took pics of how I wrapped sling around engine.
Holes will be 4.5" deep, 3/4" di, to hold an epoxied 5/8" SS bolt  Silicone sealer will be applied to keep oils off the epoxy.

[12 gauge]

Mike,
What are you using to drill those holes?  A rotary impact drill should get the job done in minutes.  I like those "made for the job" anchor bolts.  No use reinventing the wheel.  Thanks for the nice pictures.
RH

[mike90045]

Mike,
What are you using to drill those holes?  A rotary impact drill should get the job done in minutes.  I like those "made for the job" anchor bolts.  No use reinventing the wheel.  Thanks for the nice pictures.
RH

1/2" rotary drill motor, no impact.   Carbide bits, in 3 ascending sizes, and I got one special bit to go through rebar, if I find a hunk in a hole.      What I don't know, is should I cool the bits while I drill ? They get smoking hot (not concrete dust) and I don't want to damage the carbide tip from heat or too much pressure.    Couldn't find any hints on the web about using carbide bits, except high speed and slow speed have different spiral flutes to get the dust out.

What are made for the job" anchor bolts ?

[Tijean]

The hammering effect shatters out much more material with much less wear on the carbide inserts. A straight rotary drill is miserably slow compared to a commercial impact drill like a Hilti. I recently purchased a homeowner drill that is supposedly a "hammer" drill and it is only very marginally better than plain rotary. The hammer effect is mostly a buzz in your fingers and too weak to do anything where it counts.  Locally it costs 35$ for daily rent of a Hilti,  but that is a bargain compared to the frustration and poor bit life trying to do it in stages with plain rotary drill.

[tiger]

Iv'e drilled anchor holes for heavy xray equipment for 27 years. Hilti is by far the best! they are certified in most all states as to applications for any kind of concrete and load. In california they are the standard for sesimic requirements Iv'e had anchors pull tested by the state inspectors and never had a failure with a hilti drilled hole and hilti anchors I worked with variouse sizes up to 3/4 inch dia which can pull test over 2000psi. your Hilti sales guy will certifiy the the anchor in writing if needed for state inspections. I never found any other brand that offered any where near that level of support.