PCV

[hotater]

I've been meaning to update the sock feature installed on my Listeroid.....

The sock has been a GREAT thing!!

I extended the oil drain to a T with a valve on the bottom and a plug at the top.  I check oil in that T by removing the plug and dipping in a home-made dipstick.  The end of that sock is PERFECT as a wipe rag!  It totally stops the smokey room, too!
   A sock filter last a week before getting too gooey to use.

[WWIProps]

I took the PCV configuration off.  Oil everywhere especially from the fuel pump.

Rigged up a vent to the outside.  I replaced the existing vent pipe with an 1 1/4"  Taco hot water heating pump 2 bolt flange.  Reduced down to 1" pipe(it is what I had), attached 90* to a piece of belows style rubber coolant pipe, more steel pipe through the wall to a 1" check valve.  I modified the check valve by cutting the spring in half.  Original tension was too great for the airflow to open.

Very clean engine!

Note that the Taco 3/4" flange works well on the hot water outlet as well.  You can purchase a stock Taco 1 1/4 hole gasket and small 190/200F thermostat and put it in place.  Automobile thermostat fits right inside the gasket.  I think the slight looseness alleviates the need to drill a vent hole.  The only modification was to enlarge the mounting holes on the flange so bolt holes would line up.

Scott

[sid]

 need a little more info on the taco flange. where can I locate one/ been searching for something like  that for a few months/  it seems around here if it not plastic//the standard answer is we do not stock it. I would love to have an ole style hardware store available but now it is the large box style store//sid

[WWIProps]

Most of the hot water baseboard heat in the northeast uses a Taco cartrdige circulator pump.  Taco makes flanges with different size water outlets for the pumps.  Here they are available in Lowes and Home Depot in the heating section.

[BruceM]

I took the PCV configuration off.  Oil everywhere especially from the fuel pump.

Rigged up a vent to the outside.  I replaced the existing vent pipe with an 1 1/4"  Taco hot water heating pump 2 bolt flange.  Reduced down to 1" pipe(it is what I had), attached 90* to a piece of belows style rubber coolant pipe, more steel pipe through the wall to a 1" check valve.  I modified the check valve by cutting the spring in half.  Original tension was too great for the airflow to open.

Very clean engine!

Great solution, Scott.  I've seen oily smoke coming out of my vent during outdoor test runs, but hadn't gotten around to thinking how that might be a problem in the genshed.  What did you use for a check valve?

Bruce

[WWIProps]

I used a straight through 1" pipe check valve.  The one that worked for me did not have the big nut on the top.  The valve consists of a spring, rubber seal and plastic head that is held in place by a phillips screw.  I removed the screw, cut the spring in half reassembled and it worked like a champ.  Now if I can stop the Indian fuel filter from leaking I should have a very clean engine!

[BruceM]

Grainger has the 1 1/4" taco pump flanges:  4RC79 $9 for pkg of 2

This made me think- what if I just attach the stock reed valve unit to the second flange mounted on the outside wall off the genshed and connect them with 1" or larger coolant hose, sloped upward so that any oil will drain back down???

WWIProps-  I"m still not clear on the check valve you're using.  Is it PVC plastic or brass, a swing type or inline spring type?  It is really a water check valve, right?

Thanks!
Bruce McCreary
6/1 Metro
Snowflake, AZ

[GerryH]

I like the sock. My wife always want to burn mine, now I can tel her they have a real purpose
Gerry

[WWIProps]

It is a brass in line check valve with a plastic poppet. I did not use a flapper style with a nut on top.  Got it from home depot. 

Started down this path when my reed valve broke.

[BruceM]

Thanks, WWIProps.  I've got a brass check valve in my plumbing parts box, and may put it to use after I look over the stock unit carefully. Thanks for sharing the details of your external vent setup!

Bruce

[kyradawg]

 Peace&Love, Darren

[Listeroidsusa]

The GM-90 engines come with two crankcase ventilation devices, the standard reed valve on the crankcase door, and a regular PCV valve. The PCV has a drilled and tapped 1/2" hole in the top left side of the crankcase, a street 90, and a 1/2" pipe extending to the head level. The PCV valve is screwed into the top of this pipe and has a breather on it. The 6-16 hp models are free standing, and the 20/1 model has the PCV piped to the intake manifold. I've never seen any vapor coming from either device. It does work well to hold a partial vacuum in the crankcase. In any case, it doesn't leak. If someone will send me an email about how to post photos I'll post some.

Mike Montieth

[Listeroidsusa]

Look in the GM-90 section for a photo of a GM-90. You'll see the GM-90 factory setup for the PCV. It uses a ball check valve screwed into the breather pipe on the left.

Mike Montieth

[BruceM]

I haven't figured how to do a picture in the post either?!  I do see the vent pipe on the left side in the GM 90 picture.  I wondered what that was!

Interesting that adding a crankcase vent hole up higher and routing it up to the head level eliminates the oily smoke/fog, even from the standard door reed valve.  Is the door valve functional? Why the second vent?  How come no vapors from a crankcase vent?  Perhaps the height lets the vapors condense in the steel pipe and run back to the crankcase? 

Bruce

[kpgv]

IMPO, on a diesel, the crankcase is a potential fuel source.
I know this sounds PARANOID, but I would never conect the breather to the "intake"
Same reason I don't think the oil bath air filters are a good idea as built.
If the "Oil Bath" filters were "up-flow", they would be better.

Kevin