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Author Topic: Concrete Pad  (Read 7568 times)

overbore

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Concrete Pad
« on: July 15, 2010, 05:17:59 PM »
As soon as the temps moderate, we will be pouring the base pad for my 10/1 Thumper.  We are going to use the concrete pad, McMaste-Carr vib. dampers, steel frames then engine-generator per George's procedure ( from the ground up ).  Is there any data on minimum pad size???  ??? ??? I am planning on a 52" long pad by 30" wide with the cooling tank for my thermo-syphon system mounted on another pad as there is no water pump on my JKson engine but there is an oil pump.  Many thanks.

Laus Deo
overbore

listerboy

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Re: Concrete Pad
« Reply #1 on: July 15, 2010, 11:31:41 PM »
Ye ol' can of worms has been loosed again!! :D ;D  Sit back and relax overbore, there are many opinions about pad dimensions and weight..... they are sure to come. But I believe you won't go wrong if you follow Lister's original recommendations.

toydiesel01

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Re: Concrete Pad
« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2010, 02:51:19 AM »
hey Overbore, when i poured my concrete i went 24 inches thick .  The J hooks for my engin were 20 inches long==16x1metro
Rember you need space around it to work on it

LowGear

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Re: Concrete Pad
« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2010, 06:18:37 AM »
Amen on the service area.  Once you understand how serious those flywheels are you'll want room to show respect.  It took me almost 15 seconds to reach that "Son of A ..... :o  This is not a toy!!!" moment and that 10 X 12 feet was barely enough.

Casey
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rpg52

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Re: Concrete Pad
« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2010, 11:04:06 PM »
If you do a search, you should find reading for hours and hours.  My 6-1 was "active", until I bolted it down to a solid block, about 2x2x3.  Calculate the weight, if you are close to the weight of the engine, you should be close.  It is nice to have it mounted up off the ground level a couple feet.  As your knees age, they will thank you for it.
 ;)
Ray
PS Listeroid 6/1, 5 kW ST, Detroit Diesel 3-71, Belsaw sawmill, 12 kW ST head, '71 GMC 3/4 T, '79 GMC 1T, '59 IH T-340

bschwartz

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Re: Concrete Pad
« Reply #5 on: September 04, 2010, 12:42:00 AM »
I just figured a cubic yard (Not cube shaped).  Works like a charm!!  I think I ended up about 5' x 3' x 20" high.  I'm not saying it is the best, or necessary, but it was easy to order one yard, and make a box that fit.  I'm quite happy that I mounted it high, so the crank is easy to do without bending over.
-Brett

1982 300SD, 1995 Suburban 6.5, 1994 F250, R170, Metro 6/ sold :( , Witte CD-12 ..... What else can I run on WVO?

overbore

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Re: Concrete Pad
« Reply #6 on: September 20, 2010, 06:35:28 PM »
AT 1330 today is is currently a balmy 90F;  :o :o not quite what I had in mind for mid September so we wait two more weeks for pad hole digging.

Laus Deo
overbore

overbore

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Re: Concrete Pad
« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2010, 04:01:44 PM »
Georgia has discovered FAll and our "concrete hole" has 38 bags of 80# mix poured and curing ;D ;D. Not a misprint; hole was 24" deep!!
J bolts were made and installed ( red hot is HOT!!! ::) ::)- grabbed one too close to the cherry red---.  I beams are on hand and holes center punched.  Now for curing delay.

Laus Deo
overbore

mike90045

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Re: Concrete Pad
« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2010, 08:16:44 PM »
So, what are the dampers that you are using ?   

I've decided to epoxy bolt to the slab, using 5/8 bolts, 5" into the slab in 3/4  holes.  Drills and bolts ordered, and Ill silicone seal the top of the epoxy to keep oil /  fuel off the epoxy.

overbore

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Re: Concrete Pad
« Reply #9 on: October 14, 2010, 07:12:59 PM »
PADS:

From McMaster-Carr, I have on hand six  6X6",  Neoprene pads, 3/8" thick, 300#psi rated, ( 36 square inches each X 300# = a bunch of capability )  70A durometer, that only deflect 0.05". They are part number 5996K5 @ $14.62 ea.

Laus Deo
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vtmetro

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Re: Concrete Pad
« Reply #10 on: December 14, 2010, 03:29:49 AM »
Just to add an oddball install here among the sensible yard of concrete versionsalready mentioned:

I had to move my Metro 6/1 near a shed. Unfortunately the best spot for it already had a small 4" thick concrete pad, and three low masonry walls around it about 5 feet square, and that was obviously not going to work. I didn't want to crack the slab out, or add 24" on top of it (can't truck in a yard or more of concrete now in mud season), so I did the following:

Laid a rubber horse stall mat over the existing slab.
Set two 4-1/2 foot long 9" sq railroad ties on top of the mat.
Poured a 1 foot cross section concrete ledge a few inches in front of the ends of the ties (a 4th wall)
Filled in around the ties and between the  4 walls with 9" of mixed sand and gravel.
Bolted the I beam engine/generator frame across the ties.

Started her up and amazingly quiet. No more ground pounding at all. With the new exhaust system I put in, I actually had a hard time when cranking telling when the first power strokes kicked in so I could remove the hand crank. I haven't pulled full load because the generator isn't connected yet, so things may change. But so far there is a total difference from what she ran like before, even idling.

I used to be able to feel ground vibration from 30 feet away. It also was notable especially when starting, as it came up to governed speed from hand crank speed. Yet I really had a hard time telling when she started firing this time. Just valve ticking and injector clanking. So I'm hopeful she'll be quiet under load as well.

I think the horse pad will protect the 4" slab from being cracked. The rubber pad seems to isolate the block noise from the concrete pad which would otherwise act as a diaphragm. The rubber pad also acts as a spring, while the gravel and sand damp the spring like a shock absorber, I believe. That's my story anyway and I'm sticking with it unless things change.