Complete neophye with cs 8/1- can anyone help?

[fabricator]

Weezing is a classic symptom of a valve problem.

[mark d]

I guess I must have a valve problem then as when I turn it over using the hand crank, I get a regular wheeze and a puff of what looks like 'steam' from the air intake (fine diesel spray?). If I give the rocker arm a few taps then it is harder to turn so I guess I am then getting better compression, but this seems to ease up again once I get it through the first 'cycle'.
Where should I go from here, as I suppose I need to sort this before anything else (?).

[compig]

Sounds like the inlet valve isn't fully seating due to carbon or corrosion on the seat. turn the engine until just over compression so the piston is below top dead centre , this leaves the inlet fully closed , then give the rocker arm a number of taps to impact the valve on the seat. Then evaluate the compression again. If the cause of the valve not fully seating was due to carbon or corrosion this would probably sort it , if it's a more serious problem it won't !  It's a shame you can't use the starter as it would probably start even with the leaky valve then clean itself up.

[Stan]

Perhaps if you inserted a small lit, plumber's propane torch in the intake and then cranked it over, the extra heat from the torch might aid in starting the engine. This might help if the problem is just carbon gumbing up the valve, but you still have the job of taking the head off and regrinding the valves.  No way around that.
Stan

[Tom]

You might try spraying some penetrating oil on the valve stems to see if that loosens them up. If that doesn't work then move the piston to TDC and remove the valve keepers and springs so you can get at the stems and clean/soak them to see if the loosen up.

[oliver90owner]

Tom seems to be right on the nail here.  The engine is a compression ignition - not enough compression, no ignition.  Simple as that. 

One can remove the valve spring with the piston at TDC and give it a twist to try to seat it (WD-40, or similar, sprayed down if appropriate).  Otherwise a head removal job.  Just depends on what is the problem - with the seat contact or the valve not quite closing due to interferce between guide and stem.

Regards, RAB

[Tom]

Since he did say that after tapping the rocker the compression seemed better for a cycle, it seems that the valve stem is probably sticking.

[listeroil]

You need to operate the fuel control solenoid by pulling it back when cranking over the engine. It releases the decompresser and opens the fuel pump to full throttle. Then to run the engine you need to place a piece of wood under the solenoid arm to keep the engine running.
The bleed screw on the injection pump is metric 6mm believe it or not and it can be replaced with a short 6mm allen screw. Which works a lot better than the original.
It also sounds like your inlet valve is not sealing. Its no big deal to pull the head off it only takes about 10 minutes  to remove and you can reuse put your old head gasket  Listers recommend this. Then you could clean up and grind the valves in correctly.
Not to sure about 10 year old red diesel maybe try a bit of fresh diesel certainly 10 year old petrol is no good.

Mick

[contaucreek]

I just had a look at this thread and I agree with you too Tom. With piston at TDC remove the valve cotts and springs and if the valve is square to the guide and not "wiggling" around due to wear then just try and get the valve stem into the chuck of a hand drill and give it a slow spin while pulling up and this may seat it enough that upon assembling the spring ass'y you will have the compression you need to get the thing lit up. Good luck with a great engine, Paul. PS obviously dont turn the flywheels off TDC or you risk loosing the valve down the pipe and if you do you get a great opportunity to see whats under the head !! And if you give her a tap with the hammer again do it with the piston well below TDC   Aluminum vs Steel 

[contaucreek]

Boy nobody can lock a thread up like me LOL....P.