Author Topic: running temperature  (Read 6303 times)

billypurves

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running temperature
« on: March 11, 2010, 07:37:01 PM »
Hi Guys,   What temperature are you looking for ideally in your cooling systems?

mike90045

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Re: running temperature
« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2010, 07:43:04 PM »
About 190 F is good, keeps oil hot, and dried out.  Much hotter and you can get some micro-boiling,  below 170, you can't keep oil dry.   
  IMHO, as I've not even gotten mine fired up yet.

ronmar

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Re: running temperature
« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2010, 08:34:53 PM »
I would be looking for 190-195F.  This temp also helps keep the head and injector good and warm.  This helps the injector to inject a good fine spray that combusts cleaner with less carbon buildup...  As mentioned, it will also help to drive off moisture from the lube oil.   With teh sump way down low away from all the action, it also takes a good long run for this heat to work it's way down to the oil to help evaporate accumulated moisture from teh case.
PS 6/1 - ST-5.

overbore

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Re: running temperature
« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2010, 09:06:18 PM »
Where can I get a themostat housing for my 10-1?  George does not respond.  Many thanks, Graham

ronmar

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Re: running temperature
« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2010, 10:26:27 PM »
If it has the typical thick cast flange that accepts a 1" BSP pipe fitting, you can probably make enough room in that flange with a die grinder to accept an automotive thermostat.  That is what I did on my 6/1...  It does require a little bit of cleanup work in the head outlet port(don't cut thru into the head stud passage), but it is pretty easy to do. 
PS 6/1 - ST-5.

listeroil

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Re: running temperature
« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2010, 10:39:15 PM »


Tijean

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Re: running temperature
« Reply #6 on: March 12, 2010, 12:01:33 AM »
I used the method Listeroil shows in his photo; looks like an extra inlet flange as the source. I made my thermostat spacer housing from 1" plate which had enough meat so I could  let in a lateral 3/4 OD tube top and bottom for future install of an inline heater. So far That is just looped with heater hose.

Thermostat is nominal 195 and takes quite a while under a good load to open. A snap disc switch is mounted on lower hose to activate the radiator fan when return water reaches 120 F. The original studs have to be replaced with longer. I guess the original is Whitworth thread form but our standard coarse thread works as you can use good long thread engagement.

Frank

10/1 Jkson, ST5 gen. head