Author Topic: governor linkage  (Read 6825 times)

torquemada

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governor linkage
« on: December 10, 2009, 06:34:45 PM »
Does anyone have any ideas about removing the slack from the governor linkages...i got a 24/2 lister type...the prob is the injectors are not putting the same amount of fuel in...so one cylinder is "lazy"
any ideas or fixes will be welcome...its brand new not even run for 90 minutes yet..........cheers...........keith

rf

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Re: governor linkage
« Reply #1 on: December 11, 2009, 07:34:22 AM »
Hello torquemada,

 Here are some pics of what worked for me hope this helps.



Regards
RF

torquemada

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Re: governor linkage
« Reply #2 on: December 13, 2009, 02:43:05 AM »
yeah...that helps...on mine if have slop in every single linkage,but PARTICULARLY the ones you have modified...i expected slightly more support from the people i bought it from,but they know i'm in no position to ship it back,these pics help a lot ....cheers mate..... :)

Doug

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Re: governor linkage
« Reply #3 on: December 13, 2009, 02:44:46 AM »
From Whom did you buy this?
It's a Good Life, If You Don't Weaken

listeroidsusa1

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Re: governor linkage
« Reply #4 on: December 13, 2009, 03:10:57 AM »
The original linkage has WAY too many points of slop to do an exact regulating job. I built a new linkage system for mine using 3/16" ball joint rod ends. It works great and has no slop whatsoever. The 1/4" rod ends could also be used but the 3/16 rod ends fit the linkage without drilling.

I made 2 "L" brackets from 1/4" X 1/2" cold roll to fit on the rack with a 3/8" reamed hole for the pump pivot and machined my own linkage.

Mike

Combustor

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Re: governor linkage
« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2009, 10:52:13 AM »
Hello all,
          I made a simple mod to my 8/1 linkage which improved response and load droop. The pins on the rack and lower end of the right-angle link (as in RF's pic)
were replaced wit ones drilled both ends to take split pins.Pass a U shaped loop of suitable wire through the pins and bend the ends over. (Ream out and ovesiize the pins
if badly worn) Then just hook a light tension spring between the 2 loops. It takes up enough slack to make a useful improvement without a lot of "engineering".
                                                                                                                                                           Regards,   Combustor.
                                                                                                                                                     
Toys include- Lister CS 8/1, Lister VA SOM plant and some Aussie engines.
   "Old iron in the Outback" Kimberley, West Australia.

torquemada

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Re: governor linkage
« Reply #6 on: December 13, 2009, 01:38:49 PM »
The original linkage has WAY too many points of slop to do an exact regulating job. I built a new linkage system for mine using 3/16" ball joint rod ends. It works great and has no slop whatsoever. The 1/4" rod ends could also be used but the 3/16 rod ends fit the linkage without drilling.

I made 2 "L" brackets from 1/4" X 1/2" cold roll to fit on the rack with a 3/8" reamed hole for the pump pivot and machined my own linkage.

Mike
i'm afraid i have to agree with you on the slop in all the joints in the linkage,when you say ball joint,can you be more specific....a pic would do the trick.
i'm SERIOUSLY open to all suggestions.....as all its good for at the mo' is as a sinker for my boats mooring,i really need this running as espesh during the summer we can experience 8 hour power cuts 3-4 days in 7.......cheers all......keith

torquemada

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Re: governor linkage
« Reply #7 on: December 13, 2009, 01:40:17 PM »
From Whom did you buy this?
[/quote central Maine Deisel.......i'm not impressed]

apogee_man

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« Last Edit: December 13, 2009, 10:38:11 PM by apogee_man »

torquemada

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Re: governor linkage
« Reply #9 on: December 13, 2009, 10:44:48 PM »
This is excellent....thanks very much ........it gives me somewhere to start anyway.......cheers guys