consider this:
1. remove the flywheel
2. remove the steel plate
3. use the plate as a pattern to make a second plate
4. use 4 dom tubes as standoffs, maybe 6inches long
5. use one of the aforementioned drive plates with the lovejoy half coupler
6. install another lovejoy half onto a 8 inch stubshaft
7. assemble with a flange mount brg into the outer plate
now between the plates (oem behind the flywheel and the outer plate you made) you have sandwiched between
the flywheel, a full lovejoy set w/stubshaft, and an outer flange mount brg.
now you can attach an utterpower pulley and put as much side load as you like
and the engine crankshaft will see almost no sideloading.
if you are careful and use two flange mount brgs, back to back, one on each side of the outer steel plate
the engine crank will see no loading from belt loads.
i know they claim the engine's will take belt side loading, but why would you wanna subject it to this stress if
there is a way to keep from doing it in the first place?
btw, the lower spacer tubes can be used for the rear lower motor mounts as well.
the uppers could be used for accessory mounts also, such as another alternator, pump or whatever.
if anyone wants a sketch let me know, pm me and i will email you one.
as i see it, a properly engineered belt drive need not be very tight or present much stress to the crank
and its brgs, but...
i know the tendancy is to tighten the belts more that usual because of poor drive engineering, and
poor engineering is the result of folks taking shortcuts and/or using what is at hand which might be
a bit sketchy to start with, or worse, just being lazy or thinking they don't wanna be bothered by doing
the several steps needed mathmatically to determine a properly engineered drive.
there you go, my contribution to the new engine and its use.
bob g