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Author Topic: Splicing cable  (Read 8810 times)

Tijean

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Splicing cable
« on: August 24, 2009, 10:27:44 PM »
Would like to power a remote building and have a couple of pieces of #4 three wire plus ground totalling 200 ft. Will pull the cable through PVC poly tube. How about staggered, soldered western union splices vs crimped connectors. I would like to keep it as neat and bulge free as possible to minimize the size of the poly pipe.
Frank

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Wizard

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Re: Splicing cable
« Reply #1 on: August 24, 2009, 10:58:32 PM »
IIRC, no splices permitted in the middle of run externally or in a coudit.  Have to be in a junction box visible (not hidden).

Cheers, Wizard

Tijean

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Re: Splicing cable
« Reply #2 on: August 24, 2009, 11:07:35 PM »
Whizzard, I am sure that is correct by the code, but, but, if you did not bear the scrutiny of code compliance??? Lol, what would be the neatest, sound mechanically and electrically way to accomplish it without it looking like a snake that swallowed a frog?
Frank

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compig

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Re: Splicing cable
« Reply #3 on: August 24, 2009, 11:30:14 PM »
Soldered and heatshrunk.
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Doug

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Re: Splicing cable
« Reply #4 on: August 25, 2009, 12:26:40 AM »
The only aproved underground splice I know of is an epoxy filled type done to Tech or ACW type cable.

You can do other splices but they have to accessable, in a box....

Western union splice.....

Haven't heard that in years, thats like the old tech/pipe splices nobody does that anymore ( well I do but just to be a smart ass and show up the young people )
« Last Edit: August 25, 2009, 12:29:58 AM by Doug »
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Irish Artist

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Re: Splicing cable
« Reply #5 on: August 25, 2009, 12:43:18 AM »
For an underground install, I wouldn't risk it, go without splices. Water is persistent and it WILL find it's way in.

But if you're strapped fer cash. . . .

Murph'
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Doug

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Re: Splicing cable
« Reply #6 on: August 25, 2009, 01:52:10 AM »
This won't ever leak.

http://www.farwestcorrosion.com/fwst/cable/3m04.htm

This particular kit was designed specificaly for mining and was special resquested in the early 90s by my dept. 3M makes good stuff nice people to deal with too.
Scotchcastâ„¢ Flexible Power Cable Inline Splicing Kits:
82-F1, 82-F2, Voltage Rating up to 5 kV non-shielded
 
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jzeeff

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Re: Splicing cable
« Reply #7 on: August 25, 2009, 02:42:17 AM »
Spliced (1/2 of the strands from each end overlap the other end) and then soldered and heatshrunk.

Wizard

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Re: Splicing cable
« Reply #8 on: August 25, 2009, 03:33:34 AM »
Western Union splices is COMMON repair jobs on cut wires in TVs or blown up wires and sleeved with heat shrink tubing, depending on type of voltage/current, I double layer that.

But for stranded wire splicings I do this "method 1":

http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html

Gives most compact splice and neater with good practice, no sharp tips to poke or sharp edge.  West Union splice gave me bit of problems from time to time, that why I discovered this and found this works better.

Cheers, Wizard

compig

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Re: Splicing cable
« Reply #9 on: August 25, 2009, 11:03:11 AM »
Yup , thats my method to.
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mobile_bob

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Re: Splicing cable
« Reply #10 on: August 25, 2009, 12:10:31 PM »
do yourself a favor and put em in a box, because eventually you will be revisiting the issue
and if you don't have slack in boxes you will not have enough to repair the rot.

you also got to think about the next guy that has to follow up on your system, he will undoubtedly think
it is a solid/unbroken run unless there is a box  or some form of juction in place.

i know i would cuss you real bad if i had to stumble upon where these splices are.

can you imagine having to dig up all the line in order to find a corroded splice?

i do too much of that in my line of work, i can't imagine doing it with 4/3 w/ground buried in the ground.

bob g
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Tijean

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Re: Splicing cable
« Reply #11 on: August 25, 2009, 02:56:50 PM »
Thanks guys; Mobile Bob, I know you are right; I have repaired more than a few improvised and ill conceived underground water works and those stupid cheap crimp on auto electric connections after they have been exposed to corrosion. Mechanical connection but hit and miss electrical.

This cable was already spliced when I inherited it, but no attempt had been made to stagger the splices so it is lumpy. Also black and red  colour shift happens at the splice which would not matter for the 120 / 240 scheme but sure would give problems to anyone trying to trace any problems. It is actually a nice neat job of taping with a combination of bonding rubber tape alternated with some form of plastic.

I like the idea of some form of sealant squeezed inside of the heat shrink to help repel moisture. I would only need to be burrying for one travellled over section but potenially leaky electrical connections in the ground are scary. I think perhaps there just may be a bird house on a post about half way between the generator and the barn, Lol!  :-X
Frank

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Wizard

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Re: Splicing cable
« Reply #12 on: August 25, 2009, 03:19:09 PM »
Idea of a bird house atop pole is brilliant with a junction box at bottom couple feet up from ground.

I knew that will happen, and I rather have a visible junction box screaming I have splice instead of hidden and confounding next person to inherit the property when same problem comes up.  And! pulling new line much easier than one loong run and cheaper to obtain shorter power cable as you go.

That is why codes EXISTED.

Cheers, Wizard

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Re: Splicing cable
« Reply #13 on: August 25, 2009, 03:29:14 PM »
Western Union splices is COMMON repair jobs on cut wires in TVs or blown up wires and sleeved with heat shrink tubing, depending on type of voltage/current, I double layer that.

But for stranded wire splicings I do this "method 1":

http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html

Gives most compact splice and neater with good practice, no sharp tips to poke or sharp edge.  West Union splice gave me bit of problems from time to time, that why I discovered this and found this works better.

Cheers, Wizard

I use this method in fig.4, also but for heavy, multi stranded power cables I add a step.  I wrap the joint tightly with a small gauge copper wire which pulls the loose strand package together tightly before I solder the joint.
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Doug

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Re: Splicing cable
« Reply #14 on: August 25, 2009, 11:01:23 PM »
I suspect if you took everyone at this forum who has spliced a cable over #4 and counted the number of jobs in total I would still have done more.

I have splice everything from #14 to 500 MCM ( also coax, fiber and com cables ) .

I splice 12 volt and I splice 13,800 volt.

I have used cold shrinks, tape kits, pour kits and torpedose ( and I even do the old style tech in pipe splice for kicks to keep people guessing )

If your going to splice anything that draws power use a proper compression link and the proper tool. Copper on Copper no dissimilar metals. Avoid mechanical fittings ( split bolts ) they eventualy loosen. And Finaly pour it in epoxy if its going to get wet.....

I do this for a living I used to splice so many cables in a night I was questioned on it ( hey not my fault people break stuff I just fix it ). The main thing to rememeber is you must use the right material for the aplication.
There are a lot of people here sugesting things I don't like and simply would not accept in a job for safety and reliability reasons.

I will confess to using a few of these tape kits over the years
http://www.plymouthrubber.com/
These are generaly good but I have had a few get wet and fail. My fix for that is the Raytec host shrink kit over top of the plymouth tape kit. Plymouth makes some of the best tapes I have ever used. I am particularly fond of the 153 vinyl and outer jacket repair tape with mastic.

My worst fear is one of my splices or repairs will fail and someone will get hurt. This has never happened to me but I have seen it happen.
I take about 45 minuts to do a realy good " million dollar splice " as the miners call it. Some clowns do it in 15 minuts and I will eventualy find them and replace them or will be called because a poor splice has failed.
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