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Author Topic: Water Temperature Gauge's  (Read 25610 times)

oliver90owner

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Re: Water Temperature Gauge's
« Reply #15 on: August 25, 2009, 08:53:36 AM »
12 volt?

Maybe the newer ones but i think all the ones I have used (in the distant past) were 10.5V - they needed a voltage stabiliser.  Perhaps the memory is not so hot but IIRC, both the fuel sender and temp senders were fed from the same supply.

Regards, RAB

NoSpark

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Re: Water Temperature Gauge's
« Reply #16 on: August 25, 2009, 12:19:35 PM »
I keep my (uncertified ;))IR gun next to my 6/1 and use it quite often, but I'd rather just look at a gauge that gives me a more accurate idea of what the internal cylinder head temp is, but thats just me. 
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rleonard

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Re: Water Temperature Gauge's
« Reply #17 on: August 25, 2009, 01:27:43 PM »
How about this?  For monitoring purposes.  These gauges are from hot water heating systems.



and installed;



Bob
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Irish Artist

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Re: Water Temperature Gauge's
« Reply #18 on: August 25, 2009, 03:19:15 PM »
Bob, That's a beauty of a gauge, I take it the sensor is at the base of the gauge? There's still a part of me that feels you need to get an internal temp reading to really know what happening. Once I get my engine going again, I'll have to attach another sensor to to my outlet line and see what the difference is.

Ronmar, On your auto shutdown, did you do an auto shut off for the power out from the gen head as well? I understand that shutting it down under load is not a good thing.
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ronmar

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Re: Water Temperature Gauge's
« Reply #19 on: August 25, 2009, 09:21:15 PM »
That is a col gauge, temp and pressure. 

How often do you expect to shut down on an overheat condition?  Ideally, yes, you would want to cut the output power, but most every small generator I have ever seen or worked with has shut down on it's own at some point(run out of fuel, oil, fouled plugs, ect).  This should be a VERY rare occurence, it will only happen if something else in the system goes drastically wrong.  Most of the small installed gensets I have seen have low oil shutdowns, but no provision to open the output breaker.  If you are not taking other precautions to protect vital electronics, then you are making a mistake making your own power, or even using commercial power for that mater:).  the brownout during winddown isn't going to be that long, and will be steadilly decreasing at a fairly rapid rate.  It could possibly deplete the reserve  magnetism in the rotor, but I have never had this actually happen and have inadvertently shutdown while connected on many occasions over the years.  If you are wiring your own genset and don't know how to flash the field when or if necessary, perhaps you need to broaden your knowledge base. 

Shunt trip breakers are readilly available, but can be expensive.  A magnetic contactor could also be added to your power output and opened by the shutdown circuit for another $30-50.

     
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