2nd Fire...Breather slober....and why.

[xyzer]

I did a tear down of my first 6/1 to correct a few issues like growling bearings in the ST and paint everything up nice. I didn't know how well the portable idea was going to work out and skipped the make it purdy part. The rod bearings looked good Timken’s everything looked fine. It always wanted to loose a bit of oil out the breather but nothing a rag wrapped around it couldn't handle. I always suspected oil running down between the precision sheet metal splash guard on the inside of the breather inspection cover was the culprit so I straighten it all up so it sealed good against the inside of the cover. I had the crank polished put in a new set of rod bearings a new gasket set and did a fuel filter upgrade. Then came the time for the 2nd fire.....got it all bled out...what a pain! Someone on here mentioned pressurized the fuel tank and that seemed to aid in the process. She fired right up and did great. I adjusted thing and tightened up this and that then noticed a good flow of oil coming from the breather. All those negative things came to mind! I didn't line the ring up right...or they were worn out...that will teach me to check the ring gap! But the way it was loosing oil just didn't make sense! If the rings were that shot it would not start and run so well. I have heard of others with this issue and the tied rag was mentioned, also blow by. Well I figured out what was the culprit in my case. If the precision sheet metal splash guard has to small of an opening the air on its way out picks up velocity taking oil with it. 3 hours might dump a quart.  I pulled off the inspection cover and took a screwdriver to it and bent it out so it had a big air passage. What do you know it no longer pukes out the breather.


Dave   

[billswan]

hello xyxer

Your roid looks great!

Is that your new cast valve cover in the pix?

My tin one on my 10/1 Omega is a rattling piece of crap.

How much did the cast one cost?

Does it fit well ?

Does it rattle?

Billswan

[wrightkiller]

Yeh: what bill said.....

[lowspeedlife]

WOW! Sweet set up! Is that a copper fuel tank? What is that at the very top just below where the two suppory struts connect to the top part of the cage? A siren or buzzer?  Again, nicely done!
   
     Scott R.

 P.S. I'll be looking for an offset idler bolt & a pair of con rod dippers, I just cracked open the case on my 20/2 last night, looks pretty good inside but i can feel the slap in the idler gear!

[NoSpark]

Yup! Sure does look purty. Ooooh, a new Racor too! Lowspeed, I think your referring to the temp gauge.

P.S. Dittos on the offset idler.

[carlb23]

Yup it looks mighty pretty,  count me in on a dipper for m 6/1 and an offset idler bolt.

carl

[lowspeedlife]

AHH temp guage (duhh) Thought a siren/buzzer would be a little strange.

[apogee_man]

Wow,

Beautiful job!!!!

 

[piperpilot3tk]

Dave, that set-up looks really nicely laid out!  Does it run smooth with the isolator mounts?  When you hoist the set from the lifting eye on the top does the frame flex very much?  I was considering doing a set-up like this after seeing pics of your first one.

P.S. even though Chris was kind enough to sell me his extra offset bolt so that I can finish my engine, please keep me on the list for 1 Ea. offset bolt and 2" dipper when you get around to making another batch.  Thanks, Mike H. 

[Grael]

Looks purdy. Very nice. 

[lowspeedlife]

The way I count it that's four idler bolts & four hollow dippers today alone!

[Eugen]

Make that 5 hollow dippers as I would like to replace the original in my 6-1 as well.

Nice setup Xwyzer.

Eugen

[xyzer]

All,
Yep it is a temp gauge. No it is the shitty tin valve cover. They sure are noisy! The cast one was orange and I need to sandblast it and paint it yet. I like it. It is solid and fits well. CMD sells them and they are cheap in my book, $18.00 I think but I might have got the last one till the next shipment. The frame is very rigid to a fault. It only likes a good level spot or it will wiggle and rattle, dirt or grass is fine. I plan on taking it to our cabin and will use some cement anchors to the cement floor to give it a home. I have a second one I built using the basic design except it is using a metro radiator and will have a pulley running a fan like the originals. I used heavier steel for the lifting frame and it behaves more solid. I need to post a picture of it. It does run smooth if you take the time to balance it for the application. Those mounts are Volvo transmission mounts. The auto parts guy let me wander his motor mount isle and look for something that I thought would work. They work well. I also tried more than one small hole in the thermostat to see if it would settle down the hot cold warm up scenario and am pleased with the results. Yes all of my engines have a copper fuel and reservoir tanks. I was so smart when metal prices were creeping up a couple of years ago I picked up a couple of rolls. In hindsight maybe a bunch of gold would have been good to?!
Dave

[BruceM]

That's a lovely setup, Dave.  I appreciate your observation on the deflector sheet metal on the crankcase vent- that would account for the wide range of variation in slobber that people report.  Another fine solution to a nasty India quality/design problem by Dave!  (XYZer)

Best Wishes,
Bruce M

[piperpilot3tk]

Dave , please explain the "hot cold warm up scenario" and what the holes in the thermostat do to fix it.  I am unaware of this issue.  Yoy said the second engine uses a metro radiator, is this a Geo Metro radiator?  I was thinking about trying to find the radiator and shroud/fan assembly off of a Geo Metro to use on my engine, seems to be about the right size for the 6/1 and has the tanks on the top and bottom.  Thanks, Mike.