Author Topic: How to remove the inside portion of the COV ? (Read 5349 times)

jens · « **on:** April 17, 2009, 03:52:58 AM »

removed

cujet · « **Reply #1 on:** April 24, 2009, 07:20:23 PM »

Well, I see that your plug is plugged. So my trick won't help.

I drilled and tapped one of mine and installed a bolt. I then tried a slide hammer. No luck. I ran the engine to pop them out. One came out with compression. The other had an awl jammed in it to plug the hole. It shot out like a bullet, splitting a melalucca tree (paper tree) nearby.

I don't thing taking the engine apart will help.

Chris

Stan · « **Reply #2 on:** April 24, 2009, 11:14:09 PM »

That's what the manual for the original listers recommend, drill and tap as a last resort. They also warn that if you use the compression method that you only loosen the outside stuff, leaving it on by a few threads to guard against the wooden dowel shooting out like a bullet and killing you and the guy standing behind you, and the guy standing behind him etc etc etc.....

Actually the manual doesn't say that last part, I just embellished it a bit for chris's sake.

Stan

oliver90owner · « **Reply #3 on:** April 25, 2009, 05:25:50 PM »

leaving it on by a few threads to guard

May I suggest that it is only loosened a little, not enough to do as Stan says! Once it starts to move it will be easy to get out in a controlled manner. Given enough momentum, those last few threads will have to take an awful lot of strain

.

Regards, RAB

lendusaquid · « **Reply #4 on:** April 26, 2009, 01:14:16 AM »

Been there, done that, still there $:-\$ ..Had the head off ,tapped the hole,bolt in the hole,even got a nut on the other side just to make sure,metal bar across on the outside to tighten down onto,left standing with hole filled with acetone and wd40 for weeks on end and then when i tightened it up the bolt snapped. Ive tried a few times with no luck so far.

1958steveflying · « **Reply #5 on:** April 26, 2009, 08:14:03 PM »

I had to remove this part from a scrap head to use in it's replacement, i tried about everything i have read that everyone is suggesting. And in the death had to use a power saw, even with 30% of the head out of the way it would still not move. it took the removal of over 50% to get it unstuck. After seeing how badly it was stuck in with carbon i doubt it could have ever been removed any other way. Mine had probably been in for over 50 years though.

Steve

adhall · « **Reply #6 on:** April 27, 2009, 04:46:50 AM »

Jens,

Why don't you try using a slide hammer to remove the stubborn bit? I work on various old, corroded things at my day job and find this tool very effective. The mechanical shock really helps to break things loose.

Here is an example of what I mean:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5223

By they way, no need to spend $45.00 USD on one of these. It's easy to make one (just look at the picture). Or you may be able to rent one at your local auto parts store. Be careful not to pinch your fingers, though...

Best regards,
Andy Hall

Stan · « **Reply #7 on:** April 27, 2009, 05:49:44 AM »

How much is a new head Jens?
Stan

centralmainediesel · « **Reply #8 on:** April 29, 2009, 05:30:57 PM »

Jens....This is very true. While we all know the tolerances of most of the machined parts on the Listeroids aren't exactly precision made, for whatever reason the COV threads are the exception. We have found that the heat and deposits quickly "weld" everything in place. Wish I could shed some light on an easier way for removal. If all else fails and the sledgehammer helps you to vent your frustrations, I do have the extra heads, blocks, gaskets and anything else you need in stock. I know once you get the glow plugs installed and use them for the first time (they even facilitate warm weather starts when used for 10-15 seconds), you will say "Sweeeeet!"....Thanks, Phil from CMD

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