The Redstone Diesel project

[apogee_man]

Congrats Dave on the new engine!!!!

Thanks for the excellent report!

I'm excited to see one of these beasts in person...

Good luck with it!

Steve

[dieseldave]

  I built a subframe for the Redstone out of 4" Channel to attach to the Main Frame that the listeroid was mounted to. I got the listeroid out of the shed with the Crowbar and 2x4 method(MY BACK HURTS). Got it in the shop ok!  Amsoil rust preventive spray is an excellent lubricant for sliding heavy things over wood. The Egyptians used water grass from the Nile but I did not have any of this! Next,I skid the Redstone into the shed.

  RCAvictim;  The Redstone sump oil gets up to operating temperature quite fast. If you kook at the design of this engine you will see that the bottom part of the Cylinder Block and crankcase forms the upper part of the Sump. A lot of heat gets sucked into the oil even in a 'no load condition. eg. On this engine, an oil pan heater would also heat the cylinder block and the crankcase.

  I had to move the Redstone from the soft gravel onto the lawn to make room for getting the listeroid out. I started it up on the lawn temporarily and the whole unit was smoother still! I can't wait until I got mounted on the proper base.  I will report on that.

[dieseldave]

  I finally got the Redstone and it's subframe on the proper mounting base. The steel mounting base sits on railroad ties.

  I decided to pour a concrete beam under the mounting base directly under the engine. Very steady at all speeds. I did the concrete thing because I noticed some shaking at various speeds. $30 worth of Ready-Mix,big deal!

   I have the 2' exhaust running slightly downhill through the wall into concrete blocks. From the pipe, the exhaust travels down and then up again through the blocks and then into a piece of 4" sch-40 pipe.  This makes a pleasant sound, which is slightly audible in the house.

   Tomorrow, I will take a break and paint the generator shed!  Next step is to run the glycol lines into the shed from my automatic coal stoker furnace. I will be setting this cooling system up so that the Redstone and shed can be heated up before starting, or the heat can be just left on all the time. Waste heat from the engine will be utilized for additional heat in winter. This arrangement will also allow me to filter and centrifuge heated waste vegetable oil. i have 2 -1000 Litre tote tanks in the shed also.

[apogee_man]

Pics Dave!!!!!

Cool!

 

[dieseldave]

   I have no idea how to do this on this site.  I have no trouble e-mailing photos.

[dieseldave]

  I just installed a Full Flow filtration system, with a pressure gauge. On startup I got 200psi oil pressure! This was at room temperature and running 5-30 oil for break in.

  After the engine and oil warmed up, it settled down to 40 psi. I need a bypass valve,around 80 psi or I might blow the can off the spin on filter. I wonder if these are available with NPT pipe threads. I would bypass the excess oil to my oil filler/drain arrangement by removing a 3/4" coupling and replacing it with a 3/4" 'T'

[dieseldave]

  I constructed a bypass valve using a 1/4 to 1/8 npt reducing coupling, a compression spring and a #6x3/8 robertson head sm screw.  Works good! pressure gauge goes up to 100psi cold and then settles down to 40psi when the oil warms up.

  Just started digging a ditch for the glycol lines from the shed to the coal stoker, and also a ditch to house for power cable.

[mobile_bob]

Dave:

can u detail a bit how you installed your full flow system?

how did you alter the  original system design?

thanks
bob g

[prof.blink]

mobile bob, it sounds as though you have one of these engs on your work table, what say you? blink

[mobile_bob]

nope, i am heavy into the s195 changfa both idi and di engine's

very similar lube system to the redstone,
i know how i plan to integrate full flow filteration, just curious how Dave did his
on the redstone.

bob g

[prof.blink]

m/b, by the by, i belted my 8 pole gen to the 195. nothing permenent, just clamped down on my t- slot lay-out table. running eng@1330 rpm to maintain 60 cyc. gov seems to be quick to respond w/o hunting or lag, i tryed dif combos of elect heaters and heavy pedestel grinders in an effort to make it misbehave to no avail. this is going home to heated garage for stand by. blink

[mobile_bob]

tough little bastards aren't they?

oft overlooked and shunned because they are noisey, the little 195 is capable of doing some real work.

i have done everything i can think of to kill the one i have in testing, lost a few oem headgskts, but
got that resolved with a better gskt, and like the energizer bunny it just keeps right on doing what it does best.

i would expect no less from the redstone.

bob g

[dieseldave]

  Bypass system:   The filter housing has 1/2" npt inlet and outlet. On the inlet side is 2 - 1/8" npt taps for a pressure gauge. I used the other tap for the relief valve(homebuilt). I installed a 3/4 pipe T just below the fill plug for excess oil from the bypass. This setup allows me to change oil without making a mess.

  When the oil is hot, the bypass still bypasses a little oil. This pushes the oil in the bottom of the sump around a bit, instead of it just sitting there.

[mobile_bob]

Dave:

so its not a full flow system but rather the more common bypass system?

bob g

[dieseldave]

  it's full flow to the oil lines. The bypass ( pressure relief ) oil is returned via my fill/drain setup made from 3/4 pipe before the oil enters the filter.

  The spin on filter and housing is available at Princess Auto (Canada)