Author Topic: Air in fuel (Read 13655 times)

compig · « **Reply #15 on:** March 14, 2009, 08:50:32 AM »

Is the fuel tank vented to atmosphere ?

lowspeedlife · « **Reply #16 on:** March 14, 2009, 03:27:59 PM »

Quote

It seems that the path after the filter needs to be negative pressure to get the veg oil through the filter.

Jens

Quote

It should not really be negative pressure but less pressure than on the supply side. If it is negative pressure it would be working in a vacuum, if so, your bubbles aren't really air, they are nothing, or evacuated space.

?

carlb23 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 14, 2009, 04:50:03 PM »

just thought i would mention it just because it came to mind. You can purge the high pressure line from the pump to the injector by just rotating the flywheel back and forth through the pump stroke rather than trying to spin the engine over. It will give you starter a break and make it easy to purge.

carl

lowspeedlife · « **Reply #18 on:** March 14, 2009, 06:45:58 PM »

Watch it Carl, he's gettin' a little testy

Just kiddin'

Still doesn't seem to make sense, If it was a bad leak you should have had fuel leaking from that area, unless it is actually in a negative pressure situation

Or am i not thinking about this correctly?

oliver90owner · « **Reply #19 on:** March 14, 2009, 09:47:23 PM »

If it was a bad leak you should have had fuel leaking from that area

Air will go where oil will not. Don't need as much delta P to get air in as to get fuel out. My car does not leak fuel because the leak must be high up near the fuel pump, which is on top of the engine. Only when the pump is having to lift the fuel considerably from the tank does the fault occur. Probably lucky that it is a self-bleeding pump as it is the only diesel car I have ever had that has 'kangaroo fuel' symptoms.

Regards, RAB

lowspeedlife · « **Reply #20 on:** March 14, 2009, 10:34:44 PM »

Well there you go!!

SR.

billswan · « **Reply #21 on:** March 15, 2009, 12:51:33 PM »

Quote from: jens on March 15, 2009, 02:24:30 AM

I am being cautiously optimistic .... she ran for about 2 hours tonight, rock solid. When I shut her down she had a couple of bubbles trapped in the T after the filter but those could be leftovers from dismantling the fuel system. Finally hooked up my Murphy temperature gauge to a tatteltail and into the solenoid that holds the rack open .... the shutdown seems to work quite nicely. I just need to automate the drop-out of the generator because currently it stays connected to the house as it winds down (it's not an ST and it doesn't need to be flashed when this happens).

Jens

Jens

Could you please post a pix of how your solenoid works the rack?

??

I need to figure out something for my 10/1 before something bad happens. I still need some kind of solenoid but am unsure of what to do!!

billswan

mactoollover2005 · « **Reply #22 on:** March 15, 2009, 04:49:24 PM »

Good day everyone.
I used to drive a 5 ton wrecker and the fuel system was operated by a fuel pump mounted on the engine. Since there was a filter housing about 4 feet from the pump and a fuel tank switch ( in the cab) about 3 feet from the filter and then the fuel tanks switch valve about 7 feet from the cab switch then the fuel tanks about 3 feetaway from the fuel tanks switch valve.Needless to say it never leaked fuel but we had air bubbles in the fuel system fairly often and the truck wouldnt run.
After checking everything out and trying to eliminate the air leaks and finding out there was always one more leak i finally got tired of the vacuum system and installed 2 x 24volt fuel pumps, one above each tank mounted and pumping fuel directly from the source and a fuel pump switch to control what fuel pump was running and what pump wasnt. This solution quickly showed me where the tiny air leaks were. After fixing the leaks i very very rarely ever had a problem. Once in a while i would have to take apart a pump to clean it out but other than that everything was honkydorie. Personnally i like a pressurized system versus the vacuum, keeps the engine running with all the fuel it wants and no damm time consumming air leaks and the many hours of air bubble searching everytime it developes a new air leak.

My 2 cents worth.
Derek

billswan · « **Reply #23 on:** March 15, 2009, 04:56:15 PM »

THanks jens

I see by the pix you have an oil pressure gauge, the 10/1 single I have has about 4 psi cold but when the oil is up to operating temp it drops to about 1 psi. Does the twin you have have more pressure? Are you going to have a murphy switch on the oil level and or the oil pressure??

Billswan

lowspeedlife · « **Reply #24 on:** March 16, 2009, 12:08:52 AM »

congradulations Jens, glad you are back on line.

Scott R.

mactoollover2005 · « **Reply #25 on:** March 16, 2009, 01:04:42 AM »

Congrats Jens, some times the easy stuff gives us the most headaches.

Derek

billswan · « **Reply #26 on:** March 16, 2009, 03:08:37 AM »

Good job jens

Challenges make use stronger!!!!!!!!!!

I have one of my own I have plugged my exhaust heat exchanger for a second time and have removed it from service, washed it up and put it in storage.

Will start on building one that is less efficient and more easily cleaned.

Billswan

listerboy · « **Reply #27 on:** March 28, 2009, 06:07:30 PM »

Jens,

At 70c you better open the windows for some free cooling

!

compig · « **Reply #28 on:** March 28, 2009, 06:14:40 PM »

At 70 deg c the house would show up well on thermal imaging satellites !!

rl71459 · « **Reply #29 on:** March 28, 2009, 06:21:46 PM »

Hi Jens

That sounds great! Congradulations!

When the engine shuts down, does your system switchover to grid or inverter?

Rob

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