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Author Topic: New engine controller  (Read 15590 times)

lowspeedlife

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New engine controller
« on: March 07, 2009, 03:29:05 AM »
I picked up this engine controller on E-Bay today for $33.00 including shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250380970414&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

Hope it works out as my 20/2 gen set controller.
   
   Scott R.
Scott R.

5.7 liter diesel k-5 blazer. converting to wvo.
omega 20/2 listeroid

Grael

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Re: New engine controller
« Reply #1 on: March 07, 2009, 04:17:30 AM »
Neat. Keep us updated on the progress. :)
GTC 8-1

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compig

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Re: New engine controller
« Reply #2 on: March 07, 2009, 09:44:28 AM »
Total bargain !!
DON'T STEAL , THE GOVERNMENT DOESN'T LIKE COMPETITION !!!
Lister A
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ANOTHER Lister 6/1 CS SOM , temporarily !!!

AdeV73

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Re: New engine controller
« Reply #3 on: March 07, 2009, 12:12:18 PM »
Very neat... I guess all that pitch inside it means "No user serviceable parts" ;D

What kind of sensors does it use?

billswan

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Re: New engine controller
« Reply #4 on: March 07, 2009, 01:31:50 PM »
I picked up this engine controller on E-Bay today for $33.00 including shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250380970414&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

Hope it works out as my 20/2 gen set controller.
   
   Scott R.

Hello lowspeedlife

Please keep this thread going , when you get your ebay prize post some more on how you plan to use it and what type of sensors need to be hooked to it!

billswan
16/1 Metro  in the harness choking on WMO ash!!

10/1 OMEGA failed that nasty WMO ash ate it

By the way what is your cylinder index?

lowspeedlife

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Re: New engine controller
« Reply #5 on: March 07, 2009, 03:09:10 PM »
Hi Ade, the paperwork in the pdf file for the auction says it uses normally open & closed contacts (has dip switches to make these adjustments) has a warm up & cool down modes &  glow plug control. obvously has over crank,  over speed, low oil, high temp & two shutdown modes without an led to indicate what it is. one will be used for high oil level, & i think i may use the other for low coolant level or something i havent thought of yet & yes there are no user seviceable parts, not that i could fix it anyway.

Hi Bill, I will, all the sensors should be standard murphy controls. the only one i am not sure of is the overspeed sesor, must be a magnetic sensor that will go on the ring gear, when i get one.
Sorry Jens,  The seller was g2canada, not sure if they have any more.  I think it retails for over $400.00.
  Now to get to work, temps today in the high 70's,  WHOO HOO!
Scott R.

5.7 liter diesel k-5 blazer. converting to wvo.
omega 20/2 listeroid

MacGyver

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Re: New engine controller
« Reply #6 on: March 07, 2009, 05:33:32 PM »
Well, I had a little "extra" room on another circuit board I designed, so I used the "wasted" space for part 1 of my engine controller.

This is the first board. It contains the "brains" of the operation.. A PIC, a voltage regulator, a real time clock and crystal, some EEPROM, and a little extra hardware to drive an LCD display. This is kind of a general purpose controller board I can use for other projects besides the "roid controller. Here's the board and parts for the controller all lined up and ready to load...
http://sweetwatergems.weirdstuffwemake.com/geek/images/controller%20board_597.jpg


Board #2 will be the "muscle board", with MOSFET output drivers to control solenoids, relays, or valves to turn stuff on and off, and input buffering hardware for the assortment of inputs form the Listeroid and it's surroundings.  It's still to be designed.

I've also got a couple of temperature sensor boards set up. The "low temp" boards (up to 125C / 257F) use a MCP9800 temp sensor. That should be good for measuring coolant temp and engine shed temp.  The "high temp" board uses a MAX6675 sensor with a type K probe. That one can read up to 1024C/1875F for exhaust gas temperature.  Both temperature boards output serial temperature data and interface easily with the controller board.

Still working out the sensors for fuel level and crankcase oil level, but I like BruceM's "floating magnet in a tube" idea and may play along those lines to start with.

Here's a low temp sensor board already loaded. I've built and used several of these already and they're great. The pads on the right are for +5v, ground, a serial data line, a clock line and an "alarm" output.  I don't generally use the alarm out so it takes 4 wires to connect it to a controller.
http://sweetwatergems.weirdstuffwemake.com/geek/images/mcp9800_625.jpg

No photo of the high temp sensor board but it looks much like the low temp board with a type K probe dangling off one end.

Will post more as I get it built...

Steve

JKson (PS) 6/1 'roid & ST 7.5

lowspeedlife

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Re: New engine controller
« Reply #7 on: March 08, 2009, 12:22:19 AM »
Thats so small, I could see myself misplacing it & getting really pissed!
Nice looking stuff though.

   SR.
Scott R.

5.7 liter diesel k-5 blazer. converting to wvo.
omega 20/2 listeroid

AdeV73

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Re: New engine controller
« Reply #8 on: March 08, 2009, 12:39:47 AM »

This is the first board. It contains the "brains" of the operation.. A PIC, a voltage regulator, a real time clock and crystal, some EEPROM, and a little extra hardware to drive an LCD display. This is kind of a general purpose controller board I can use for other projects besides the "roid controller. Here's the board and parts for the controller all lined up and ready to load...
http://sweetwatergems.weirdstuffwemake.com/geek/images/controller%20board_597.jpg


I guess you don't hand-solder that stuff? I think I'd kill the PIC chip in 2 mins, with my ham-fisted soldering...

MacGyver

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Re: New engine controller
« Reply #9 on: March 08, 2009, 12:59:14 AM »
Nope, not much hand soldering.

All the pads get a tiny dose of solder paste, the parts get (carefully) loaded on the board, then it all goes in the "E-Z-Bake oven" (actually a highly modified toaster oven) for soldering.
Any rework gets done with a tiny jet of hot air to solder and de-solder stuff.

I *have* hand soldered parts as small as that 44-pin PIC, but my success rate with soldering tiny stuff like that is rather less than 100% and I hate every second of it...

It's funny cuz 5 years ago the thought of surface mount parts terrified me. Now I LOVE them. You can get a lot of parts on minimum board real estate! And of course many of the cutest new technologies are only available in SMD, so if I want to keep playing with electronics it's kind of a case of "Adapt or Die"...

I just wish my eyesight didn't suck so much. Thank God for magnifying lenses and bright lights.


Steve

JKson (PS) 6/1 'roid & ST 7.5

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Re: New engine controller
« Reply #10 on: March 08, 2009, 02:32:27 AM »
Here's a latest photo of my controller...  It's still in the "testing things" stage. I have 3 of these boards to play with and this is #1.
http://sweetwatergems.weirdstuffwemake.com/geek/images/controller_631.jpg

That's all the parts loaded on the controller board and reading ambient temperature from the MCP9800 temp sensor. Temperature is displayed in degrees C and degrees F on the LCD display, and degrees F rounded down to .1 degrees F on the LED board.
My PIC''s I have in stock turned out to be 16LF727 parts instead of 16F727's, so I need 3 volts to run it instead of 5... That's why there's a TO92 package regulator soldered to the board in the lower right corner instead of the "proper" SOT23 regulator that is supposed to fit in that spot.. (didn't have any 3v's in SOT23)

Engine temperature(s) and RPM are going to be easy. Still working on the "appropriate" sensors for fuel and oil level...

So far so good. more news and photos as things progress.

Steve

JKson (PS) 6/1 'roid & ST 7.5

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Re: New engine controller
« Reply #11 on: March 08, 2009, 03:47:53 AM »
Another photo with 2 temperature sensors connected. The LED display and the  lower 1/2 of the LCD display show ambient temp in degrees F from the MCP9800, and the upper 1/2 of the LCD display shows "exhaust" temperature of a BIC lighter in degrees C, from the MAX6675 with type K probe.

http://sweetwatergems.weirdstuffwemake.com/geek/images/controller_636.jpg
Steve

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Re: New engine controller
« Reply #12 on: March 08, 2009, 04:20:39 AM »
Heh, busted! That's kind of funny...
The LCD & LED displays get info from the same source, but the routine updates the LCD display first, then pauses for a bit, then goes off and does some other stuff and then updates the LED display about 150mS later.

The camera apparently caught the displays between changing updates so they don't display the same temp. Under "steady state" conditions they will display the same, but under changing conditions there's a brief delay between updating the LED and LCD  displays.

The final Listeroid Controller will probably use the 2 x 16 LCD display, not the LED display.  Just learning and playing around with the possibilities at this point... Having fun though, and that's part of what Lister(oids) are all about, eh?  :)
Steve

JKson (PS) 6/1 'roid & ST 7.5

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Re: New engine controller
« Reply #13 on: March 08, 2009, 05:10:50 PM »
Having fun though, and that's part of what Lister(oids) are all about, eh?  :)

You bet. I hope to eventually play with an arduino based controller !

Jens

Arduino?

Well heck, I had to go look that one up. I thought it was a new kind of spaghetti sauce!

Looks like they're trying to give the BASIC Stamp a run for the money. Cool!

I've built quite a few BASIC Stamp projects. Good fun and easy to get started. But too pricey for lots of applications.  $40+ for 16 I/O pins and $80 for 32 I/O pins is kind of depressing...  :(
Those prices finally drove me to getting started with PIC's. A 16F877 will kick ass on any BASIC stamp, has up to 35 I/O pins and only costs $3.55 in single unit quantity and $2.15ea for 25 or more. Supply your own circuit board, some assembly required.  ;D
Steve

JKson (PS) 6/1 'roid & ST 7.5

cschuerm

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Re: New engine controller
« Reply #14 on: March 28, 2009, 06:14:02 PM »
PICs are awesome parts indeed!  You're doing some very nice work there! I've been designing stuff with them since they first came out and we have a number of PIC-based products that we've sold over the years - one of which was an industrial engine controller board for automatic pumpjack operation.  If I may offer a suggestion  - stick some Tranzorbs or other protection devices on your board to protect the I/O where it leaves the PCB.  Even though the PICs are pretty robust, it's pretty easy to zap their I/O diodes in the real world.   Also, if you're ever going to operate off the same power as an electric starter, make sure you've got some really solid protection/filtering on the incoming DC.  The kickback from starter motors can be pretty brutal. 

cheers,
Chris

PS: amen on the failing eyesight and every smaller parts :(