Rust Removal

[AdeV73]

OK, I know rust removal pops up on this forum occasionally, not surprising with all these auld engines around

Anyway, found on the stationary engine forum was this useful nugget: http://www.cookhaus.co.uk/vinegar/index.htm

Basically, removing rust by soaking in malt vinegar. I shall be trying that one, I think!

[Stan]

Actually using electrolysis is the best way to remove rust.  That and just plain old water (it softens rust then you brush) . 

There's lots of info on the smokstak forum on using electrolysis, it's quite simple and can be even used to remove rust from large parts, as large as your biggest waterproof, non-metallic container.  One guy used a wooden form lined with plastic to remove rust from car fenders.

If you want a "formula" for patented rust remover liquids, do some research and take your pick, there's hundreds and as far as I can tell they all work just about the same.

(disclaimer, I haven't used hundreds, but quite a few  )
Stan

[mobile_bob]

there is also an electolysis method that the machine tool guys use to recover antique lathes/mills/shapers etc

evidently it works exceptionally well, and can be done either in a tank (smaller parts) or laid flat with soaked
paper towels and a metal plate (much like a battery)

the resulting residue is a soft black crud that is easily wiped off, or scrubbed off with a brush.

never tried it or had reason to try it, but from what i gather it is very effective, quick and easy.

can't remember if i have read here that anyone has tried it on engine parts, but wouldn't surprise me

bob g

[mobile_bob]

Damn Stan,, you be fast!

lol

bob g

[MacGyver]

Electrolysis works great. I've used it on rusty old tools, lots of old cast iron cookware, and of course... engine parts. (But no Lister parts yet)

I usually use 1/2 of a 25 gallon plastic barrel for my tank.
Works great on cast iron, but be cautious not to put any pieces in that have aluminum or brass or other "non-iron" metal inserts or bushings or whatever.
Also be sure to get the polarity correct when you hook up your part (part =negative, sacrificial anode = positive) otherwise it will eat up your part.

[compig]

OK, I know rust removal pops up on this forum occasionally, not surprising with all these auld engines around

Anyway, found on the stationary engine forum was this useful nugget: http://www.cookhaus.co.uk/vinegar/index.htm

Basically, removing rust by soaking in malt vinegar. I shall be trying that one, I think!

Good old acetic acid !!  Works even better when warm !!  

[1958steveflying]

http://www.cookhaus.co.uk/vinegar/index.htm

  Steve

[compig]

Only downside is the smell !! Yuck !!

[Quinnf]

Kinda like a whore house on a Monday morning.

q.

[Wizard]

Yow.  That's lot better than I imagined.

But I don't know if our local grocery stores have malt vinegar....?

Cheers, Wizard

[Quinnf]

I had great fun recently restoring a 1950s-vintage Craftsman table saw that I found on top of a trash pile outside a house that was being gutted for demolition.  Thing was all rusty and would have ended up as scrap.  Got some expired phosphoric acid from work and painted it on using a natural bristle paint brush.  Then washed off with hot water.  Repeated several times until I got down to bare metal, then heated parts to drive off any residual moisture and primed and painted or, in the case of the table surface, soaked with clean engine oil.  Gave it to a friend of a friend (i already have two tablesaws and a radial arm saw).



Small parts can be de-rusted by immersing them in a steel or SS pan and simmered on a hot plate over low heat.  Leaves a not unattractive gray iron phosphate coating that is rust resistant and makes a dandy base for paint.  Left unpainted, the phsophate looks like the parts are zinc coated or galvanized.

Vinegar is 5% acetic acid, which is a weak acid to begin with, and doesn't have much capacity to react with iron oxide.  Phosphoric acid is also considered a weak acid, but is available in more concentrated form in products like Naval Jelly and concrete cleaners.  And it doesn't smell as bad.  Available wherever painting supplies or masonry supplies are sold.  And as always, follow all the safety info on the container. 

Quinn

[compig]

Kinda like a whore house on a Monday morning.

q.

You speak from experience then ??!! 

[Quinnf]

Well, I lived next door to a sorority house in college.  Does that count?   

q.

[Edit:  Just thinking about malt vinegar, fish, whore/sorority houses could take this thread 'way off topic.  Forget I mentioned it!]

[AdeV73]

I guess electrolysis is the way to go, then?

That said, my running Lister has a lot of rust in her barrel; and I'm thinking ... I need a way to get that rust out, and I'm not ready to dismantle her yet (I will start my "how these engines work" learning by re-building the dismantled engine) BUT I do want to try this CHP thing out.... and being naturally impatient, I don't want to be hanging about while I rebuild...

So, here's what I'm thinking. With an indirect copper cylinder, I could put a (big!) inline filter into the system, then instead of using water as coolant, I'll use vinegar! Or dilute phosphoric, perhaps (a couple of gallons of diet coke? or would full-fat sugary coke be better...? Where else can I get suitable rust remover, in a dockside town (Liverpool)?) Question is, would that dissolve the copper of the hot water tank coil quicker than it would loosen & break off the rust in the water jacket?

Of course, I could just ignore the rust issue for now, in my quest to get a CHP trial underway... does the panel think that is an acceptable alternative?


BTW - sorry for all the questions, I'll try to put some value back in when I've learned something.... 

[compig]

There's a product for descaling domestic heating systems that might work well.