Author Topic: How to reduce a twin's ground pounding, house shaking antics???  (Read 48627 times)

SHIPCHIEF

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Re: How to reduce a twin's ground pounding, house shaking antics???
« Reply #30 on: February 24, 2009, 01:40:45 AM »
Funny you should mention that. During the Nisqually earthquake, I was working aboard a 125 ft barge in Elliot bay. The water sure transfered a lot of earthquake vibrations up from the ground, thru about 25 ft of water against the flat bottom of the barge. I didn't think very much attenuation occured, it was kinda' wild  :o
I find merrit in the large concete base that is isolated from the floor slab or other foundations, the problem is calculting or guessing what separation medium to 'try', and how hard would it be to change it out for an other if it didn't satisfy?  :P
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piperpilot3tk

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Re: How to reduce a twin's ground pounding, house shaking antics???
« Reply #31 on: February 24, 2009, 01:47:07 AM »
Chris, I appreciate the offer and will have to take you up on it soon. I do not think it will take much to get it where it needs to be as she runs pretty darned smooth.  BTW, what airport are you guys at?

cujet

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Re: How to reduce a twin's ground pounding, house shaking antics???
« Reply #32 on: February 24, 2009, 02:00:11 AM »
I work at a Jet Aggravation in West Palm Beach PBI and I also work at a small corporate storage hangar at North County F45. This is where the fun happens and where I could help you out.

Chris
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Dail R H

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Re: How to reduce a twin's ground pounding, house shaking antics???
« Reply #33 on: February 24, 2009, 02:05:13 AM »
   Am I going to regret buying a twin??????

piperpilot3tk

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Re: How to reduce a twin's ground pounding, house shaking antics???
« Reply #34 on: February 24, 2009, 02:16:01 AM »
I work at the stream in the SAV.  Maybe you know Cyrus at PBI ?  I will have to check with the scheduling department to see when I can make it.  Sounds like it will be a fun adventure.   :)

mobile_bob

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Re: How to reduce a twin's ground pounding, house shaking antics???
« Reply #35 on: February 24, 2009, 02:17:17 AM »
all i can say is it warms my heart to see more discussion relating to the use of resilient mounting :)

especially from those that have used the technology and found it to provide excellent results.

the results i have witnessed on my setup are nothing short of astounding in my opinion
the engine can make full load, and work its little heart out just 15 ft from the couch my wife is sitting on
and she can watch tv without having to turn up the volume at all.  without the mounting system
she would tolerate me testing, but had to turn up the volume and also complained about dishes rattling.

there is only one wall seperating the tv room from the garage. and changfa's by their very nature
are noisey little beasts

bob g
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tlfrantz1

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Re: How to reduce a twin's ground pounding, house shaking antics???
« Reply #36 on: February 24, 2009, 03:42:19 AM »
I guess I'm crazy wanting to mount my twin to a trailer with pneumatic tires.... :'(

At least it won't shake the house.   :-\

Actually, a fairly heavy and rigid trailer with pneumatic tires at low pressure during operations should work fairly well I would imagine.  Air resilient mounts are the only ones that I have seen that get down to the low spring rates required to achieve the desired higher isolation levels.  Unfortunately, these air mounts are somewhat pricey.  Heavy rigid stand, low spring rate mounts, and mounts located as far away from engine as practical are all goodness. 

Hey---idea---yup, I smell smoke---that's what happens when I have an idea---what about using suspension airbags out of a bus or 18-wheeler? They wouldn't cost hardly anything at the scrap yard.

Smoke has cleared.
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NoSpark

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Re: How to reduce a twin's ground pounding, house shaking antics???
« Reply #37 on: February 24, 2009, 04:23:28 AM »
How about Magnetic Levitation.  8)   O.k. I'm out of here!  :)
Anand Powerline 6/1 ST5

SHIPCHIEF

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Re: How to reduce a twin's ground pounding, house shaking antics???
« Reply #38 on: February 24, 2009, 06:03:24 AM »
Once again, you need to restrain a twin so it does not move it's carriage in such a way that the crankshaft moves axially and batters the thrust bearing.
Singles do not have this problem and I suppose that is why Bob is so hot for the Changfa.
I must admit that I did not buy his 'sister' to my twin because, well, one is enough. A single is more fuel efficient, and easier to tame.
I have some bits & pieces for making radius rods that would contol axial movement while permiting acceptable resilient movement, but I'm also building an airplane and messing with an ironhead sportster, so you have to set some priorities.
If you want long engine life, as Listers are supposedly known, you need to allow the parts to work together as Lister intended. If you go off the farm and allow the engine to bounce around so you don't notice any vibration, you need to make sure the engine is not suffering some kind of battering. That's all.  :-X
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nobby

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Re: How to reduce a twin's ground pounding, house shaking antics???
« Reply #39 on: February 24, 2009, 01:08:33 PM »
I have gone back and read the prior ton of crete discussions and as Shipchief is pointing out the potential issue with resilient mounting etc for the CS style engine as I understand it is over the long term damage to the engine itself.  Ton of crete appears to be tried and tested as far as the years of CS engines operation will testify, but what to we have data wise for resilient mount 20,000 hours so far if I recall correctly from another thread.  Perhaps we have a trade off here quieter install with the risk of greater damage and fatigue in the long run.  To be honest as far as roids go and the relative cheapness of parts perhaps this really is a non issue in the bigger scheme of things.

One thing to bear in mind though in regard to the crete method is that the old school would float their crete within the building concrete foundation upon a vibration absorbing material the favorite and best being cork.  Other materials that could be used were soft rubber, mastics, asphalt or wood.  Very often on older ships you'll find the gensets mounted on wood and then the steel base of the engine room.  I would like to see vibration results of a crete mount, using a cork base must of given substantial positive results the old guys took great pains in installing this way.

I seem to recall GF being called out to provide documentation/formulas that discuss the ton of crete method well I have such a text material and will scan and post it, makes very interesting reading and also discusses resilient mount methods and is an 'old guy puplication (1940's)'.

Cheers
Nobby

Upon edit Engine foundation document available for download in my gallery, an interesting read:
http://listerenginegallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=988

Cheers

« Last Edit: February 24, 2009, 02:00:52 PM by nobby »
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sailawayrb

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Re: How to reduce a twin's ground pounding, house shaking antics???
« Reply #40 on: February 24, 2009, 04:26:37 PM »
I have gone back and read the prior ton of crete discussions and as Shipchief is pointing out the potential issue with resilient mounting etc for the CS style engine as I understand it is over the long term damage to the engine itself.  Ton of crete appears to be tried and tested as far as the years of CS engines operation will testify, but what to we have data wise for resilient mount 20,000 hours so far if I recall correctly from another thread.  Perhaps we have a trade off here quieter install with the risk of greater damage and fatigue in the long run.  To be honest as far as roids go and the relative cheapness of parts perhaps this really is a non issue in the bigger scheme of things.

One thing to bear in mind though in regard to the crete method is that the old school would float their crete within the building concrete foundation upon a vibration absorbing material the favorite and best being cork.  Other materials that could be used were soft rubber, mastics, asphalt or wood.  Very often on older ships you'll find the gensets mounted on wood and then the steel base of the engine room.  I would like to see vibration results of a crete mount, using a cork base must of given substantial positive results the old guys took great pains in installing this way.

I seem to recall GF being called out to provide documentation/formulas that discuss the ton of crete method well I have such a text material and will scan and post it, makes very interesting reading and also discusses resilient mount methods and is an 'old guy puplication (1940's)'.

Cheers
Nobby

Upon edit Engine foundation document available for download in my gallery, an interesting read:
http://listerenginegallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=988

Cheers



Nobby, thanks for the good info on materials to use for concrete block isolation.  I would think cork or rubber would work very well.  There wouldn't be significant engine induced motion of the concrete (because of Newton's F=MA and the large concrete block M), however, there would still be low frequency vibration energy (approximately 11 Hz) that would readily tend to propagate into the surrounding environment unless one can surround the concrete block with a material that is good at absorbing this vibration energy and essentially converting it into heat energy.

In terms of why the old time engineers recommended concrete engine bases, you have to try to envision how these old time engineers successfully designed these Lister engines.  These folks had to be first rate engineers of their time.  They knew Lister engines would be unbalanced and they consequently knew Lister engines would generate large and potentially destructive "pounding forces" when constrained to rigid concrete bases.  Resilient mount technology did not exist so they couldn't take advantage of it in their design.  So they were forced to design an engine that had to tolerate these "pounding forces" and with the goal of lasting a long time.  They accomplished this by beefing up all the engine components that would see these "pounding forces".  You don't see too many 6 HP engine today that weigh in excess of 500 lbs.  Obviously, their design approach was very successful and we are fortunate to still be able to benefit from their excellent work.

So lets discuss these "pounding forces" some more…  Lets say your hand represents the engine component in question that we are concerned about protecting so it lasts a long time.  Lets say your kitchen table represents the concrete base or the resilient mount structure the engine is mounted.  I think most folks would agree that if you pound your fist on a concrete table it will hurt more than if you pound fist on a soft rubber table.  The reason the soft rubber table is easier on your hand is because the rubber table "gives" or moves away from your hand as you pound on it.  It would be easy for me to say that this is why resilient mounting structure is always better than concrete, but unfortunately it isn't that simple… 

The aforementioned is only true as long as the table always moves away from your pounding hand.  The table only moves away from your pounding hand as long as your hand is the only force causing the table to move…that is, your engine is the only thing inducing the motion of your engine stand.  However, lets say that someone is hitting the underside of the table with a heavy sledge hammer at exactly the same time your hand is pounding on the top of the table.  I think most folks would agree that your hand would hurt more than before.

So for a resilient mounting structure to be successful at both reducing the pounding from being transmitted to the environment and at reducing the pounding forces on the engine components, the resilient mounting structure has to be designed properly.  Nowadays, nearly all engines are balanced and mounted on resilient mounts.

So what are the implications to the Lister twins?  If each side of a twin is inducing different motions to the engine stand, that could well be problem and something to consider and avoid in your design.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2009, 04:30:56 PM by sailawayrb »

cujet

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Re: How to reduce a twin's ground pounding, house shaking antics???
« Reply #41 on: February 26, 2009, 01:33:35 AM »
I have some (many) helicopter rotor blade elastomerics. They are in effect, springs and dampers in one. It was my plan to give them a try on my driveway slab, just to see if they would work.

I want to build a shed with a good thick slab. That part is not a problem. The concrete will be at least 8 inches thick at it's thinnest point. However, I am certain the vibes will travel the short distance into my house if I don't find an effective isolation system. On the other hand, if I can isolate the vibes, I could put the lister in a second garage near to the neighbors house!

What ideas do you guys have for wood? As wood is a great way to isolate vibes.

There was some really great input in this thread and plenty of food for thought. Thanks!

Chris
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Tom

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Re: How to reduce a twin's ground pounding, house shaking antics???
« Reply #42 on: February 26, 2009, 02:00:53 AM »
I've got wood 4X6's sandwiched between 4" channel iron, which is bolted to a large concrete block and located right next to the house. It pounds and rattles dishes in the house.
Tom
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SHIPCHIEF

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Re: How to reduce a twin's ground pounding, house shaking antics???
« Reply #43 on: February 26, 2009, 06:19:32 AM »
Even a massive slab system should have some designed in adjustment-a-bility.
Take Cujets isomeric thaingamabobs: He could design a one ton slab that sits above another larger slab, like his driveway or a thick RV parking pad. The one ton slab should have cast pockets in the bottom to align and hold these biscuit thinga majidgets, and jack points around the edges so you could lift it high enough to swap out or change the location or number of Gadjama-do-hickies until satisfaction is achieved.
Simply guessing and building can be soooo disapointing, ask me about it sometime. Oh wait; I already told you my story.  ::)
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mobile_bob

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Re: How to reduce a twin's ground pounding, house shaking antics???
« Reply #44 on: February 26, 2009, 07:43:33 AM »
its been said of me by a close friend "bob you are like a dog on a bone"

i keep telling myself that i won't get back into this discussion but i just can't seem to help myself

so here goes

1. it has been stated by those that know listers, "a 5/1 is the same engine as a 6/1"

2. the lister engineers originally spec'd a concrete block for the 5/1 to be approx 605 lbs

3. later in production the spec changed to nearly a ton

following logic, if both the 5/1 and the 6/1 are the same engine, then why the disparity in the weight of the concrete block?

A. the earlier lister engineers got it wrong?

B. the later lister engineers got it right?

C.the earlier production engine's were balanced better than the later production engine's?

D. empirical evidence based on listers experience with folks installing these engines on everything from granite bedrock
to swamp land dictated a revision of the earlier spec?

some time ago i presented the formula used to spec the concrete block for a 5/1, no one refuted the formula
it was based on geometry of the engine and basic vector physic's

no such formula works for the later spec of nearly a ton of crete, at least none i have been able to find, compute, or calculate.

moving on

nobby presented the old school text pertaining to concrete foundations, the use of cork, the use of springs and the combination
of both that was state of the art back in the day,, good stuff for what was available back then.
what was interesting was the placement of the spring mounts as it relates to the crankshaft centerline, this point cannot be understated
in my opinion.

in any successful mounting system the underlieing goal should be to keep the crankshaft in a stable plane, it can be allowed to move up and down (as long as it stays in a level plane) or from side to side (staying in the same horizontal plane) without imparting undue stresses on the crank (within reason of course). what we don't want is the crank to cant off level in either plane. it really doesn't present undue stresses to any other part of the engine if all other movement is centered on the crankshaft centerline. Basically let her rock and roll a bit as long as the crankshaft is kept at the center of this rocking moment, kept level in both planes. (again within reason)

now we can be certain that the crankshaft will stay level in all planes if we mount it to enough mass (ton of crete), but
we have issues with transmission of noise.

in my opinion and it can be demonstrated easily this transmission of noise/sound is typically blamed on balance issues (in some cases
this obviously is the prevalent cause), but it is not typically the cause of the offending transmitted vibration. what is transmitted is the
combustion event. if you put your ear to a concrete floor and have someone hit the floor many feet away with a hammer you will hear the
hammer blow, even though there is no balance issues,, you hear the impact. this impact is the combustion event or pressure spike when the diesel ignites. my bet is if you sat a metal can on the floor and put an m80 in it and set it off you would hear it in the floor several 10's of feet if not more.

so the bottom line comes down to a simple question "how do we isolate the combustion event, and keep the crankshaft stable?"

the answer to that question is with the proper design of the engine mounting system and some from of resilient mounts,
certainly a ton of concrete isolated with cork on the bottom and sides will do the job, but
not everyone want's or can install that much concrete, maybe he is a renter? maybe he wants to move and not have a huge concrete block
to explain to a new owner? maybe he is unsure of the soil conditions in his location and fears the outcome might not be acceptable?

so what does that leave those individuals with?

the answer to that one is, a specifically engineered mounting system that is resiliently mounted.

luckily the listeroid being designed to run on a concrete block and do so forever it seems is built heavily so that it can survive forever on concrete, this heavy design presents no weak points that would preclude the use of a properly engineered/designed mounting system using modern resilient mounts, so long as the focal point is the crankshaft and making certain it remains in a stable plane and isn't allowed to cant end for end. canting end for end places stresses on the crankshaft due to the gyro effects of the flywheels, it is possible under the right circumstance to get the motion in a range where destructive resonance might occur which likely will stress the main brgs, maybe stress and crack the crankshaft or worse. there likely is a critical speed where this would be a problem,, i sure would not want that critical speed to be anywhere around the rpm that the engine is set to run under load at.

a well designed mounting system need not be horribly complex, the job gets easier the wider the mounting spaceing is, and much more difficult the narrower it is. this primarily is the reason that i cringe when i see rubber mounts placed right under the crankcase with the mouting bolts going through them.  the stresses are immense when the spacing is so narrow and therefore the engineering of the mounts gets much more complex and important. widely spaced mounts reduce these stresses to very managable levels.

using a cradle mount with the crankshaft centerline used as the mount plane, spaced apart a reasonable distance affords the use of off the shelf resilient mounts (with a little math) or off the shelf adjustable spring and rubber mounts (with almost no math) where you can simply
dial in what is needed after the assembly is put under load and monitored.

i see no reason that any single cylinder diesel cannot be resiliently mounted using such a method (cradle with the crankshaft centerline)
and have an engine that while it appears to wiggle about will have the crankshaft running nearly dead true at speed and under load.
this is not to say that the crankshaft won't move about when the engine coast down because it will pass through a critical speed on coast down and on starting (likely somewhere around 250rpm on a 6/1), but it will pass through that range quickly and present no problems.

now the twins might be another matter entirely, this is where wider spacing of the mounts would be very helpful in my opinion.

lastly there is nothing wrong with a ton of concrete, it works and works well as a mounting system, however
it just isn't the last word on engine mounting as some would suggest and clearly is not a good option for some of us
that cannot tolerate vibrations being transmitted to other living spaces.

anyway that is my story and i am stickin with it

:)

bob g
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