Battery Terminal Goop!

[Stan]

OK, I've torn down my battery bank (6, 240 A/hr lead acid cells) and cleaned them all up for another year and then went down to my local FLAPS to find some battery terminal protector.  They only have crappy spray on stuff.  First of all, spray on stuff, no matter what it is, is diluted a 1000% by the propellant so it can be ejaculated out of the can.  What I really want is some of that grease I used to use years ago.  Anyone know of any?  Maybe I'll just use ordinary lithium grease.

What do you all use?
Stan

[Tom]

Good old Vasoline used to be used for that purpose.

[Wizard]

I use dielectric silicone grease.

Cheers, Wizard

[Stan]

I realize that the objective is to keep air/gasses away from the metal to prevent corrosion, but inevitably I will have to disassemble this multiple times and want something that will wipe/wash off easily and now screw up the case or other plastic parts.
Stan

[Stan]

Sounds promising Jens, where do you get it? 
Stan

[mike90045]

from a solar website:

http://store.solar-electric.com/disigr.html
 $20 US  5oz tube
5 Ounce Tube

Helps prevent corrosion on battery terminals, and keep moisture out of sensitive electrical connections. Use on spark plug wires, connectors, trailer hitch connections and other areas that may be exposed to water, condensation, or corrosion.

Silicone grease is much better than almost any other product for preventing corrosion on battery terminals and lugs because it has such a wide temperature range and will not liquify.

[dieseldave]

    Jetlube ' copper coat'  It also lubes the threads on the bolts.

    Another good product is Ams oil MP metal protectant. Also doubles as a chain lube.  I sprayed one half of an old lawnmower blade to see how good it was. That was in July. The half that I did not spray has a thick layer of rust on it. The sprayed half is like new! It dries into a hard wax and I think it has zinc in it. I'm sold on this product!

[SteveU.]

Stan
I used many products over the years. Most were proprietary and not available to you.
 None worked any better than any common grease.
What must be understood is the root of the problem is the acid vapors rising up along the terminal post where the moulded case material  has become unbonded from the terminal.
 To clean: common baking soda in warm water and a tooth brush is the best and cheapest. It's fully neutralized when the fizzing stops. Rinse off thoroughly with water.

Wool felt terminal pads underneath the cable ends when impregnated with whatever glop you chose to use WILL seal off the acid vapors and stop the corrosion problem.
 I've done this for years successfully using many different kinds of NON-Drying/brushable (gooey) products.

Got an old wool hat you're willing to sacrifice?
 
P.S. Battery acid has the uncanny ability to seek out cotton. Especially pants and shirts. How holey art thou now?

SteveU.

[Stan]

Thanks Steve, The felt gasket idea is great!

Thanks Dave, have you ever heard of a product called "Boeshield T-9"  Your comment about leaving a wax jagged my memory cells.   Its a metal protectant and lubricant.  I bought some from Lee Valley Tools to protect my carving tools and it's been great at that.  It was developed by the Boeing company and it leaves a wax residue to protect the metal from oxygen.  I wonder if it would work?
Stan

addition:   It looks like it will work "high dielectric"  http://www.boeshieldcanada.com/PR10.php

[oliver90owner]

KISS.  Vaseline.  Cheap, cheerful and easily removeable/replaceable.

Just remember those cans are really not good value for money.  The manufacturers  make as much profit as possible by selling you what will be an expensive empty can, sooner or later.  Less product and higher price.  Called 'added value'.  Akin to drug dealers 'cutting' their wares before selling them on.

There are, of course, some good products in a spray can.  Use them when appropriate, otherwise get your fingers dirty and wash them afterwards.

Regards, RAB

[compig]

There are several brands of specific Battery Terminal grease in the uk. These are formulated to neutralise acid and some have an indicator which changes the colour of the grease when acid is present. Try a local auto store , I'm sure they will have one. Bosch have a product that may be available over there.
I've used this on motorcycle batteries for years as they are a particular problem in this respect , has always been effective in preventing the issue.

[compig]

Check this out , http://www.corrosionx.com/
Apparently the "Heavy Duty" version is a miraculous product , not only for the battery terminal application but corrosion protection in general.

[Stan]

I agree Richard...most spray can products are a rip off.  I once read that in a spray can of paint, there is less than 1 oz of actual paint, the rest is only propellant.  That's not very much value for money.

The Boeing product however comes in liquid as well as spray on format and the liquid is easy to wipe/brush on.  I think I"m going to try 3 cells with the boeing product and the other 3 with vaseline.  (can't help the scientist part of me leaking out sometimes 
Stan

[LowGear]

To clean: common baking soda in warm water and a tooth brush is the best and cheapest. It's fully neutralized when the fizzing stops. Rinse off thoroughly with water.

I used to do this very practice but was cautioned by my automobile battery, generator, alternator guru that the soda can cause battery problems if it get inside the case (like through a leaky terminal).  I just use tap water now for cleaning.  I do miss the ease of the soda and the Mr. Science experience of the show as the acid and soda come in contact with one another.

Casey

[diesel guy]

I' with Tom and RAB. I used Vaseline for years and it's works great. I leave a 1/4" layer over the entire post and terminals.

Diesel Guy