Author Topic: Thermostat (Read 9493 times)

NoSpark · « **on:** November 18, 2008, 05:50:55 AM »

I need a thermostat # for my Anand Powerline 6/1. The thermostat goes between two flanges. I thought I found one from my local NAPA that fit but the pipe hits it threading in

. I tried every thermostat they had on their shelf. Thanks

oliver90owner · « **Reply #1 on:** November 18, 2008, 07:17:12 AM »

Use two flanges? The extra one to give extra clearance when threading in.

Weld on a nipple to the outer flange and then screw the pipe into that?

Buy, or fabricate, your own thicker flange?

Regards, RAB

MacGyver · « **Reply #2 on:** November 18, 2008, 02:51:57 PM »

On mine I just cut about the first 3 threads off of the pipe. It still threads in plenty far, but it doesn't hit the thermostat now.

carlb23 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 18, 2008, 03:40:18 PM »

Quote from: MacGyver on November 18, 2008, 02:51:57 PM

On mine I just cut about the first 3 threads off of the pipe. It still threads in plenty far, but it doesn't hit the thermostat now.

That's exactly what I did also.

Carl

ronmar · « **Reply #4 on:** November 19, 2008, 01:07:09 AM »

Quote from: MacGyver on November 18, 2008, 02:51:57 PM

On mine I just cut about the first 3 threads off of the pipe. It still threads in plenty far, but it doesn't hit the thermostat now.

I did basically the same thing, but with a die grinder once the nipple was screwed into the flange. I just ground away the inner lip of the pipe nipple till the thermostat fit well inside. I also chucked the flange into a lathe and turned a little step around the opening of the stock flange for the thermostat lip to set in.

NoSpark · « **Reply #5 on:** November 19, 2008, 04:02:10 AM »

The inside flange has a recessed area for a stat already, its just that neither flange has a hole big enough to except a thermostat that I could find without some modification. I figured maybe someone with the same setup had found a better thermostat size/type.

MacGyver · « **Reply #6 on:** November 19, 2008, 03:01:32 PM »

I used a Gates 33268 thermostat.

A couple of photos:

http://sweetwatergems.weirdstuffwemake.com/geek/listeroid6-1_pg2.html

Stan · « **Reply #7 on:** November 20, 2008, 01:42:35 AM »

WARNING! All you newbies out there, make sure you have a suitable machined portion of your head/flange to fit your thermostat or some sort of suitable gasketing, (is that even a word?) before you tighten down your flange. Ask me how I know. PLINK

Stan

NoSpark · « **Reply #8 on:** November 20, 2008, 05:34:09 AM »

Quote from: MacGyver on November 19, 2008, 03:01:32 PM

I used a Gates 33268 thermostat.

A couple of photos:

http://sweetwatergems.weirdstuffwemake.com/geek/listeroid6-1_pg2.html

I see that maybe with some grinding I should be able to put the thermostat directly in the head also, which is a better place for it, closer to the heat source. The flanges(there are 2 on the outlet) on this 6/1 don't match up to good with the outlet port (RAB rolls his eyes), must be common (at least with roids), and I really didn't want to move one of the studs.

oliver90owner · « **Reply #9 on:** November 20, 2008, 07:31:44 AM »

RAB rolls his eyes

You may need to consider whether the port is actually in the wrong place! It may be better to clean up the casting than moving a stud, which I would not advocate.

Me? Yes, I've got Listers, so no problem. I would clean up the casting as long as I knew the thickness of the metal where it is being removed. A little overlap is not a problem. You will probably find the cross sectional area is not constricting the flow for cooling purposes - unless it traps a huge amount of air in the head.

Regards, RAB

lowspeedlife · « **Reply #10 on:** November 29, 2008, 11:16:03 AM »

Quote from: Stan on November 20, 2008, 01:42:35 AM

WARNING! All you newbies out there, make sure you have a suitable machined portion of your head/flange to fit your thermostat or some sort of suitable gasketing, (is that even a word?) before you tighten down your flange. Ask me how I know. PLINK
Stan

O.K. how do you know ?

Scott R.

oliver90owner · « **Reply #11 on:** November 29, 2008, 12:45:18 PM »

PLINK

He told you! 'ebrukit

Regards, RAB

Stan · « **Reply #12 on:** November 29, 2008, 02:59:06 PM »

And it cost me $50 to get a specialty welder in town to weld it. Out of 5 different welding shops, he was the only one that was willing to touch it. He specializes in restoring old motorcycles and machinery and does a lot of cast iron welding. I just got it back and it looks good.

I plan on cutting out the size of the thermostat housing from my gasket and using red silicone to hold the thermostat in place and keep water from seeping around it. I'll post some pics on it soon.
Stan

mbryner · « **Reply #13 on:** November 29, 2008, 11:32:43 PM »

So do all the 'roid's have poorly matched water jacket openings to the flanges? Mine was way off. Got the custom thermostat flange from utterpower George. Took the whole head to a machinist. It cost $20 to machine a little spot for the stat to fit. George sent me 2 'cardboard' gaskets w/ the flange. Do you just use 1 gasket? Just on the engine side?

Marcus

MacGyver · « **Reply #14 on:** November 30, 2008, 12:22:22 AM »

Quote from: mbryner on November 29, 2008, 11:32:43 PM

So do all the 'roid's have poorly matched water jacket openings to the flanges?

Probably.

Both mine were quite a bit off. The head that came with my 6/1 wasn't quite as far off as the spare head I got, but both were quite a ways off center.

I just opened up the holes with a die grinder to accept the thermostat, and "pulled" the holes in the direction I needed them to go while I was at it. The spare head was pretty close, but I was able to get the hole centered up well enough before it got too big for the thermostat...

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