On a 6/1 Inlet valve is set to .017" and exhaust is set to .032" when the engine is cold.
As for spill timing, It gets that name from the fuel spilled while it is done:) This info is how I do it based on info collected from a lot of smart people on this and other forums.
The injector pump consists of a piston or plunger in a barrel. The piston is pushed up by the camshaft lobe. The fuel from the filter enters the barrel thru a port on the side. At some point, as the piston is pushed up, it covers and closes this port. This is the start of the injection process. It is this point that we want to occur at a particular time in relation to the crankshaft rotation. In the case of the 6/1 we want it to occur at 20 degrees before Top Dead Center or BTDC. The fuel on top of the injector plunger is pushed up thru a check valve and into the high pressure pipe to the injector. Once the piston compresses the fuel to a high enough pressure, The set spring in the injector is overcome, and the valve pops open and fuel is sprayed.
To find this point, you need a few things:
First off you need to accurately find Top Dead Center. This can be done by removing the injector and inserting a rod down in the injector hole till it touches the piston top with the piston a little below TDC. Lock this rod in place with a clamp so it is rigid. When I did it I used a 6" long 1/4" drive socket extension and the injector clamp to solidily fix it in place. Next slowly roll the flywheel till the piston comes up solid against the rod and mark this position on the flywheel. Most people I think use the bolt that holds the fuel rack bellcrank as a timing mark as it is out close to the flywheel. That is what I do and it works good. Once I have this first mark, I slowly rotate the flywheel nearly 360 degrees the other direction till I come up solid against the rod. You want to do this slowly as you don't want to hit the rod hard and possibly damage something. Once you have these 2 marks, TDC will be found half way between them. IE if the marks are 2 inches apart, TDC will be 1" from either mark. Remove the rod and make a good permanent mark for TDC. I used a square and scribed a small line across the entire face of the flywheel and marked it with a "0" on the edge of the wheel.
Next you need the 20 degrees BTDC mark. To get this measure the circumference of the flywheel face. Once you have this number divide by 18 (20 degrees is 1/18 of 360). Take your answer(should be around 4") and measure clockwise when setting and facing the wheel, from the TDC mark and make another mark with a 20 degree lable. Since it is before TDC, in normal rotation, the 20 mark should pass the timing mark(bellcrank bolt) before the TDC mark does.
Once you have those 2 things, with the fuel turned off, remove the high pressure pipe from the pump. Once the pipe is off, remove the fitting on the top of the pump that the pipe was connected to. This fitting has a spring and a check valve fitting under it, so don't loose them as you remove the fitting. Once off, remove the spring, and the little check valve plunger that it sets on and re-install the threaded fitting without them. Rotate the engine till it is just before TDC on the compression stroke(both valves closed). Lower the fuel control lever like you do when you start the engine, then turn on the fuel valve. Here is where the spill part comes in. Slowly rotate the flywheel backward toward that 20 degree BTDC mark. At some point, hopefully at 20 degrees, fuel will start to flow from the top of that fitting on top of the injector pump. Use a rag to absorb/wick the fuel away so you can see it flowing up out of the fitting. Slowly rotate the flywheel in the normal direction till the fuel just stops flowing. You want the fuel to just stop flowing at the 20 degree BTDC mark. That fuel spoppage markes the fuel inlet port closure and the start of the injection pump stroke. If it is not at 20 BTDC, you need to lengthen or shorten the adjuster rod under the pump to make it occur at 20 BTDC. The adjuster rod/bolt and lock nut are real difficult to access. Once this is done, shut off the fuel, re-install the plunger and spring under the fitting making sure everything is VERY clean, then install the HP fuel pipe and injector(don't forget the copper washer at the injector tip).
Leave the upper HP pipe fitting where it meets the injector loose. While operating the injector pump(rolling the flywheel back and forth across the injection point is way easier than cranking hte flywheel) with the fuel on, look for first bubbles then fuel to be comming from that upper fitting then lock it down. If you have gotten all the air out, as you continue to rock the flywheel back and forth thru the injector firing area you should be rewarded with first a drumroll(several rapid pulses) from the injector then a single "creak" as it squirts fuel.
Once you get the injector creak, crank her up and see if she will fire when you drop the compression release.
Ron
