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Author Topic: Uh OH!  (Read 11371 times)

LowGear

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Re: Uh OH!
« Reply #15 on: July 06, 2008, 04:49:18 AM »
Like bayonet fighters there are two kinds of cast iron brazors:

The quick
And
The dead.

What does this manifold hose flange hold besides very hot water?  Any pressure greater than 2 or 3 psi? 

It's kind of scary when getting something done costs more in Canada than Kona - Seventy bucks! :o  As I mentioned earlier - MIG / TIG would be my first choice but brass should work.  I would also grind some room out of flange bottom to make room for the thermostat rim.  You might check out how flat or tue the part is that receives this flange???

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Stan

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Re: Uh OH!
« Reply #16 on: July 06, 2008, 03:29:51 PM »
Nope, water pressure wouldn't go much above 2 or 3 psi.  The radiator is only about 18" above the flange and it is "open" to atmospheric, so it would produce very little pressure.

You are right Casey, I'm sure a combination of the thermostat rim and the extra thick gaskets (plus my own heavy handedness) was the cause of the flanges demise.

Interesting analogy, "bayonet fighters"!   :o

Stan

cold comfort farm

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Re: Uh OH!
« Reply #17 on: July 06, 2008, 10:21:33 PM »
Stan,
Try these I have stick welded loads of cast in the past with this type of rod. I have even welded up my Lister CS water jacket from frost bite when I first got it. My gate hinges are heavy cast and have been swinging 10 years since their repair.

http://www.thewelderswarehouse.com/Welding/Cast_Iron_Electrodes__10-_pack_.html

This is the UK though but I am sure there are some in the US.  If you cant find any and you have a stick welder let me have your address and I will post you a couple if I have any left.  To be honest MIG welding will do the job too especially if you pre heat it.


Stephen

lendusaquid

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Re: Uh OH!
« Reply #18 on: July 10, 2008, 10:20:03 PM »
Try some half washers under the flange next time so you have something hard to tighten up on.

Stan

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Re: Uh OH!
« Reply #19 on: July 11, 2008, 01:47:51 AM »
Yup, good idea, I thought of using some shim material as a washer if I can figure out its needed thickness. 

I have contacted a guy who my wife knows his wife and he's agreed to look at it for me.  He works as a machinist for a guy in Marysville BC who rebuilds antique aircraft (if you have to ask how much you can't afford him).  Some very high profile aircraft have come out of his shop such as a stagger wing beech (high 6 figures) etc. for some high profile guys.  He's very into "keeping it original" so we'll see what he says Sunday night about repairing this flange or building a mild steel replica.
Stan

fireram

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Re: Uh OH!
« Reply #20 on: December 24, 2009, 02:34:58 PM »
hey Stan, did you get the part fixed??  I have been away from the forum for a while so this is a bit dated.

If you cant find a weld shop to fix it, Find a farmer with lots of junk in his yard and ask him, I bet he can do it or will know someone that can.  If you still have not found someone to fix, ship it to me, I will get it fixed for you.  I have the exact same broken piece on mine, I did not have any thermostat tho, It came to me broke, I have mine brazed, worked great.

Many welders are afraid to weld cast, in that it can make the part break in another spot, uneaven heating and all. The "farmer" that fixed mine, used to weld tanks for a living, heated mine all over so the entire part was hot, then concentrated on the fix...

Good luck.

Amp

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Re: Uh OH!
« Reply #21 on: December 24, 2009, 04:38:22 PM »
My experience with repairing cast iron has been good. Always braze! I've used a medium to low temperature brazing rod (Sifbronze K) with plenty of flux and never had a problem with distortion, cracking in other areas or lack of strength. There is no need to get the work piece super hot - medium red hot is plenty. If using a oxy acetylene torch remember Cast iron melts at a much lower temperature than steel.

Stan

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Re: Uh OH!
« Reply #22 on: December 25, 2009, 05:20:19 PM »
Yes to everyone who has asked, I have the water outlet manifold fixed.  We have a guy here who works on foreign motorcycles and does welding on lots of strange metals.  He heats it up very hot, prepares it with all sorts of caustic cleaners, "purges" it with vacuum, lots of other sorts of voodoo and then takes a week to cool it down afterwards in a computer controlled oven.  Another guy told me it's the way they "fix" non-aluminum (steel alloy) commercial aircraft parts at De Havilland.   Charged me $70 which I have been told is peanuts by other more knowledgeable people.  It seems very strong and you can't tell it was done by looking at it.
 I'm happy so far.
Stan