Author Topic: ATT: Scott RE: WMO  (Read 6038 times)

rbodell

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ATT: Scott RE: WMO
« on: March 08, 2008, 01:08:41 AM »
SCOTT
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« Reply #5 on: March 06, 2008, 06:37:32 AM »
Rbodell

I know this is off topic of this thread, but can you please go into some detail on how you prepare your used motor oil prior to mixing/burning?  Specifically
Do you heat the injector line?
No
What micron level to you filter to?
I first run it through a Dieselcraft centrifuge filter that is said to take it down to 2 microns. I run 10 gallons through it for several hours, not just enough to get it through once. Then I have two Goldenrod 10 micron filters and the engine fil ter that came with the engine which I understand is also 10 muicron.
What is the max used oil to diesel ratio you have used without heating
3 gallons of diesel and 7 gallons of WMO.
What is the max used oil to diesel ratio you have used with heating
I do not heat it at all when I burn it in the engine. I do heat it while I am running it through the dieselcraft filter to get rid of moisture in the oil as well as the water I use to add the lye to counteract the acidity.
And most importantly what were the results?
No difference than running straight diesel. No black smoke and same amount of power. Also starts fine, just like straight diesel.

As free fryer oil becomes more scarce, UMO seems an obvious substitute.  Any insight you may have will be most appreciated by me and the group as a whole
I am still playing around with it and testing it out. So far though it looks pretty good.


Thanks
Scott
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lendusaquid

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Re: ATT: Scott RE: WMO
« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2008, 08:06:45 PM »
Can you give a few details as when you add the lye,quantity etc.How do you test for ph?.I can see me having to pay for wvo in the near future so alternatives is something i am interested in.Since i am setting up heaters for veg on the exhaust and injector line i might as well use them for wmo as well.

rbodell

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Re: ATT: Scott RE: WMO
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2008, 09:08:43 PM »
Can you give a few details as when you add the lye,quantity etc.How do you test for ph?.I can see me having to pay for wvo in the near future so alternatives is something i am interested in.Since i am setting up heaters for veg on the exhaust and injector line i might as well use them for wmo as well.

I start by mixing some diesel fuel with the oil to thin it. I heat it and run it through a Dieselcraft centrifuge filter. I use 3 gal diesel to 7 gal of wmo for a batch. That lets it start filtering with the Dieselcraft while it is warming up. Saves a little time.

Testing
I mix 50/50 wmo and distilled water in a clean dish soap container, shake well and stand upside down till the water settles out, about 10 to 20 minutes. I then gently move the soap container over a bowl and quickly open and close the container allowing a few drops of water to fall into the bowl. I then check it with litmus paper. I get litmus paper on the net for about $1 a hundred and tear them in half.

NOTE: “LYE IS VERY DANGEROUS”, it will dissolve your skin and blind you permanently. Wear full face protection, rubber gloves, long sleeves, suit of armor etc.

To add lye I SLOWLY add it to  distilled water in a glass jar setting in a pan of water so the glass does not break from the heat. As it cools I add a little more. I have never tried to see how much you can add until it will not dissolve any more, I eventually cringe at how much is in there before that happens. Be VERY afraid of lye.

While the WMO is being pumped through the Dieselcraft  filter I add a little lye/water at a time and let it recirculate for about 20 minutes and check it again. By heating the oil the water will eventually evaporate the water leaving the lye in the oil to counter the acidity. Keep checking and adding a little at a time until you come up neutral on the litmus paper.


I usualy put an add in the local freectcle.com when I need waste motor oil. I usualy get around 200 gallons at a time. I also have some people pay me a dollar a gallon to bring it to me. You have to take it for free on freecycle though.
The shear depth of my shallowness is perplexing yet morbidly interesting. Bob 2007

lendusaquid

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Re: ATT: Scott RE: WMO
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2008, 10:24:49 PM »
Thanks Bob for the info.I have read of people water misting wvo to remove water and water solubles. Do you know if this could possibly work with wmo?

rbodell

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Re: ATT: Scott RE: WMO
« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2008, 02:15:11 AM »
Thanks Bob for the info.I have read of people water misting wvo to remove water and water solubles. Do you know if this could possibly work with wmo?

I can't say myself as I am not quite sure what you mean. I also have not messed with any WVO. Maybe somebody else could coment on that
The shear depth of my shallowness is perplexing yet morbidly interesting. Bob 2007

SCOTT

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Re: ATT: Scott RE: WMO
« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2008, 03:05:48 AM »
rbodell

Since you are only using the diesel to reduce viscosity, you may be able to save quite a bit of money by using some heat rope around the high pressure line.  Have a 2 tank system, start and stop on diesel then switch to 100% wmo.

 To pre warm the fuel, run the wmo through ¼” copper wrapped around the exhaust pipe so it will flow easily through the pump, when heated to 250 deg F (after the pump) with hear rope it should flow like diesel.

It seems worth a try, the parts should cost <$20 and annualized you could save some real money as diesel approaches $4 per gallon.

If you do give it a shot let us know how it goes.

Scott
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rbodell

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Re: ATT: Scott RE: WMO
« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2008, 10:36:02 PM »
rbodell

Since you are only using the diesel to reduce viscosity, you may be able to save quite a bit of money by using some heat rope around the high pressure line.  Have a 2 tank system, start and stop on diesel then switch to 100% wmo.

 To pre warm the fuel, run the wmo through ¼” copper wrapped around the exhaust pipe so it will flow easily through the pump, when heated to 250 deg F (after the pump) with hear rope it should flow like diesel.

It seems worth a try, the parts should cost <$20 and annualized you could save some real money as diesel approaches $4 per gallon.

If you do give it a shot let us know how it goes.

Scott


I plan to eventually run 100% wmo, but I want to go a step at a time. I have seen several people who have run wmo at 100%, I just want to prove it to myself. Rite now I want to iron out a couple other things just to make sure nothing is interconnected. I am sure they aren't but just want to be sure.
The shear depth of my shallowness is perplexing yet morbidly interesting. Bob 2007