Author Topic: Pics of your veggie fueled listeroid  (Read 21254 times)

greasy_burger

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Pics of your veggie fueled listeroid
« on: March 05, 2008, 07:24:50 AM »
I would like to start thinking about setting up a way to preheat my wvo before it gets run through the fuel system and into the engine of my 6/1 can anyone that is running veggie or preheating there other fuel show me your setup and explain how you are heating it? It would seem that the most logical way is to use the hot engine coolant to do so.I just don't want it to become more complicated than it needs to be, I also have a 6 port valve that I could use.
« Last Edit: March 05, 2008, 07:26:44 AM by greasy_burger »
Passat tdi with greasecar kit,Vegtherm and Fphe
Excursion Diesel
Beckett Afg Fha
Metro 6/1 with 4k indians head
All burning Wvo or Homebrewed Biodiesel

greasy_burger

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Re: Pics of your veggie fueled listeroid
« Reply #1 on: March 06, 2008, 12:16:20 AM »
Can anyone help?
Passat tdi with greasecar kit,Vegtherm and Fphe
Excursion Diesel
Beckett Afg Fha
Metro 6/1 with 4k indians head
All burning Wvo or Homebrewed Biodiesel

Doug

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Re: Pics of your veggie fueled listeroid
« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2008, 01:07:19 AM »
Well Craig has a few modified Veg oil roids....

http://www.veglisteroidnz.co.nz/
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SCOTT

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Re: Pics of your veggie fueled listeroid
« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2008, 01:13:10 AM »
to preheat the fuel before the pump, use some 1/4 copper tube and wrap around the exhaust pipe a few time close to the head.  This works well, I have used this arrangement for about 250 running hours.  If you are concerned about the copper becoming brittle due to vibration, use automotive break line.  After the pump, you can use heat rope to get the fuel temp to 250-300f pretty easily read this thread for post pump heating:

http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=1173.msg16353#msg16353

Scott
net metering with a 6/1 in Connecticut
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6/1

greasy_burger

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Re: Pics of your veggie fueled listeroid
« Reply #4 on: March 06, 2008, 01:47:25 AM »
How are you guys powering the heatrope? I really want to get it running veggie soon since I have over a 1200 gals kicking around and haven't started making biodiesel again yet.
Passat tdi with greasecar kit,Vegtherm and Fphe
Excursion Diesel
Beckett Afg Fha
Metro 6/1 with 4k indians head
All burning Wvo or Homebrewed Biodiesel

SCOTT

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Re: Pics of your veggie fueled listeroid
« Reply #5 on: March 06, 2008, 02:21:10 AM »
the heat rope is powered by 120v AC
net metering with a 6/1 in Connecticut
12/1
6/1

Doug

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Shadow

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Re: Pics of your veggie fueled listeroid
« Reply #7 on: March 06, 2008, 03:25:23 PM »
Here are some pictures of my set up, I used a 10 gal Hot water tank for a fuel tank. I took it apart and wrapped 3/4 inch copper tubing around it then insulated and reassembled. I also made a Prewarming tank about 30 gal.So outside the Gen shed I have a 200 gal tank of WVO, it trickles in at its own pace (Gets very cold here in Canada) through 3/4 inch hose to the bottom warming tank. It too has 3/4 inch copper wrapped around. Then I use a 12 volt pump to fill the top fuel tank which flows to the engine through a 1/4 inch copper tube. I also have a injection line heater . The oil gets to about 170 degrees then the injection line heaters takes it to about 200.
 The water is circulated with a Taco pump around the top tank first then down around the bottom tank and back into the engine. I also have a Radiator and 192 degree thermostat. If the pump should quit the water therosyphons as usual.
 I also built a 12 volt shutoff using an electric door lock solonoid, it mounts on the side of the engine and pulls a 'dog' thats holding the shutoff lever on. A spring holds tension on the shutoff lever keeping the dog in place. As the lever is closing it trips a toggle switch to kill the power going to the solonoid. Very simple to build ..very effective. It is hooked to a 210 degree temp switch to shut down and its also hooked to a push button by the door so the kids can stop the engine without going near it.
               I've used WVO for about 6 months, the engine runs fine on it but does carbon up after about 4 days running non stop.Mostly because I use it to charge a battery bank which gets fully charged then my rectifier cuts way back on amps which lightens the load for the engine so it speeds up . As long as I keep a load on its not bad. I can hear the difference when it starts to carbon up so I spray about a liter of hot water in the intake twice a day until its clean again.
           I'm now expermenting with Bio fuel and its seems better, I can use the engine to heat the oil for making the fuel. I want to use it in my truck to.


taeuber

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Shutoff system
« Reply #8 on: March 07, 2008, 02:19:48 PM »
Hi Shadow,

could you post some more detailed pictures of your shutoff system?
I'm very intereseted, because I thought about a similar system.

Thank you
Lars

ronmar

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Re: Pics of your veggie fueled listeroid
« Reply #9 on: March 08, 2008, 05:13:12 AM »
Hey GB, how is your fuel filter attached to the cylinder?  I know on some, if you remove the 4 bolts that hold the filter back plate/mounting bracket to the engine, you will find a cavity behind that backplate.  I think the original listers had an access port into the coolant cavity there, and you could see the cylinder liner with the plate removed, but the roids just usually have a sealed cavity behind the plate.    I think it was Hotater that suggested possibly using that cavity as a fluid heater, possibly to help warm up circulated engine oil from the bottom of the sump(the lube oil takes a long time to warmup on a roid).  It might also work to heat WVO up close to 200F/coolant temp. 

His suggestion was to make up a custom plate with holes that match the 4 fuel filter mount holes at the 4 corners of the cavity.  To this plate weld two NPT fittings with holes thru the plate into the cavity area, one at the top near one corner, and one at the bottom near the opposite corner.  Then bolt this plate in place over that cylinder cavity using the 4 fuel filter bolt holes, with a gasket between plate and cylinder to seal the plate to the cylinder.  You could then feed WVO into and out of this cavity to heat the oil as it passes near the thinner inner cylinder wall.  You would of course need to do some modifications to the stock fuel filter to re-mount it, but it might be better to add an aftermarlet fuel filter anyway, something with locally available filter elements, especially if you are going to run WVO.  An aftermarket fuel filter mount could easilly be incorporated into the new cover plate.  At the fuel flows of these things, I think the fuel would have plenty of time in that cavity to reach coolant/cylinder temp.  Then you wouldn't need as hefty a final heater to peak the temp prior to injection.

I also saw one of the universities using a brazed flat plate heat exchanger to use engine coolant heat to pre-heat their WVO.  These flow well and can support thermosiphon as it is what I am using to reclaim my coolant heat.  If you put it above your radiator(upper hose runs to top of heatex, lower port of heatex feeds into top of radiator), you would still be able to thermosiphon coolant thru it to your radiator. You would have to move your expansion tank line to the highest point at the top of the heatex, but it would work.

Ron   
PS 6/1 - ST-5.

Shadow

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Re: Shutoff system
« Reply #10 on: March 08, 2008, 06:34:47 AM »
Hi Shadow,

could you post some more detailed pictures of your shutoff system?
I'm very intereseted, because I thought about a similar system.

Thank you
   

Hey Lars
    Here are a few more pictures,its a very simple setup. But it does require re-locateing your fuel filter. I wanted to move mine anyway to fit my fuel setup. It can be easily bolted to the fuel tank bracket with a short piece of flat iron.
          I drilled one hole on the outer edge of the shutoff lever for the spring, and another hole on the opposite end to mount a small little1 inch by 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch piece of flat iron used to lock the shutoff lever in the on position. Then the electric solonoid simply pulls this stop out with a jerk. Causing the spring to pull the shutoff lever off.
       I can't remember what vehicle the door lock solonoid is off of, my brother brought 3 of them out one day to try, I can find out.The solonoid has lots of power but the trick was to get it to have a little slack in the cable , so it jerks the stop out. I used a 3 inch fishing leader for a pull cable.
     The push button at the door is from a garage door opener,as was the wire. If you just want a stop button you dont need a toggle switch to kill the power, as you would just momentarily push the button to shut it off. But if you are hooking up a temp switch to shut down if overheating, then you will need to run a hot wire to your sensor then from the other side of your sensor to the solonoid. When the temp gets hot the sensor completes the circuit sending power to the solonoid  which shuts off the engine. But the solonoid would stay powered up if you dont put in a method to cut the power.
      So thats where I used a toggle switch mounted to one of the injection pump bolts, now as the shutoff lever is pulled back it trips the toggle switch on the way by. Works great but you just have to remember to turn it on when you start your engine or you wont have power going to your temp sensor.
  The door lock solonoids will work either pushing or pulling just by reversing the wires,so you may try other options but I found this works the best.







taeuber

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Re: Pics of your veggie fueled listeroid
« Reply #11 on: March 08, 2008, 07:51:37 PM »
Hi Shadow,

Thank you for the info.
But if I understand you right, you are putting power to the solenoid to shut off?
I just wanted the other way round. I'd like to have a solenoid cut from power to shut the engine off. And I don't want an electronic solution, just as simple as yours.

We here in Germany get paid for delivering (green) power into the power supply system. And when the grid goes down the engine has to be stopped automatically.
I just can't find a effordable solenoid that is strong enough for my solution.
Does such a door lock solenoid survive being constantly powered?

Regards
Lars

Shadow

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Re: Pics of your veggie fueled listeroid
« Reply #12 on: March 08, 2008, 10:08:02 PM »
Hmmm, Yes this one needs power to activate.I'll have to do some thinking on your requirements but it should be possible to have a powered up solonoid switch that transfers the power to this once the power goes off to the first one.

biobill

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Re: Pics of your veggie fueled listeroid
« Reply #13 on: March 09, 2008, 02:15:15 PM »
Tauber,
 I've been reading on Germany's renewable initiatives. Already at 12% electricity from renewable sources - awesome. Could you explain how they figure the rates the producers are paid for electricity? It seems to be based on the costs of production?
  Don't know a whole lot about it, but I can't imagine that the authorities would accept an engine shut off like the type you're contemplating. Seems as though they would want a disconnect between the generator and the grid - something along the lines of a grid tie inverter.  Wouldn't surprise me if there were off the shelf devices that would do exactly what you need. What are you using for a gen head and how are you syncing to the grid? 
  Very interested to hear how things progress, perhaps in a separate thread.
                                         Bill
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6/1 Metro IDI running barn & biodiesel processer
VW 1.6 diesels all over the place
Isuzu Boxtruck, Ford Backhoe, all running on biodiesel
Needs diesel lawnmower & chainsaw

biobill

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Re: Pics of your veggie fueled listeroid
« Reply #14 on: March 09, 2008, 02:17:26 PM »
Tauber,
 I've been reading on Germany's renewable initiatives. Already at 12% electricity from renewable sources - awesome. Could you explain how they figure the rates the producers are paid for electricity? It seems to be based on the costs of production?
  Don't know a whole lot about it, but I can't imagine that the authorities would accept an engine shut off like the type you're contemplating. Seems as though they would want a disconnect between the generator and the grid - something along the lines of a grid tie inverter.  Wouldn't surprise me if there were off the shelf devices that would do exactly what you need. What are you using for a gen head and how are you syncing to the grid? 
  Very interested to hear how things progress, perhaps in a separate thread.
                                         Bill
Off grid since 1990
6/1 Metro DI living in basement, cogen
6/1 Metro IDI running barn & biodiesel processer
VW 1.6 diesels all over the place
Isuzu Boxtruck, Ford Backhoe, all running on biodiesel
Needs diesel lawnmower & chainsaw