intake rod rotating slower

[rbodell]

My intake rod on my Ashwamegh rotates much slower than the exhaust rod.
I keep it lubed both at the bottom and in the cup at the top and the valve clearance has been checked.
I asume that as long as it still rotates, I have nothing to worry about, am I correct on that?

Any Idea why?

Speaking of valve clearances, Mine came with .008 written in the valve cover. I understand this is not the normal setting. Has anybody else gotten an engine with .008 valve clearances for both valves? What is the normal setting?

[Tom]

My intake lifter rotates slower than the  too. The .008 spec is for the 8/1 which I believe had a different cam. Who knows what the indians put in our engines, but I would imagine they use the same cam for all the single cylinder engines. I run my Ashwamegh's valves at .010 and have had no problems after about 500 hours so far.

[clytle374]

If it is just the rod, I would take it out and see it it is rough on the end.  Like it drags on the rocker arm more than the tappet.

If it is the tappet, I had to fiddle with mine a little to get it up to speed.  The fiddling process is posted around here several times.

[lendusaquid]

The intake rotates slower on my original so no need to worry. Normal valve clearance is 32 thou exhaust,17 thou inlet.

[rbodell]

The intake rotates slower on my original so no need to worry. Normal valve clearance is 32 thou exhaust,17 thou inlet.

That sounds like quite a bit of difference. Now I am suspicious as to why mine is so much tighter. Has anybody else got one with those tight tollerances?

What would happen if I loosened mine up?

After my experience with RMPS, I don't trust anything he said now and I wonder about his reason for the .008.

Also does anybody with an Ashwamegh have the valve lolerances written inside the calve cover? If that normal from the factory.

[rbodell]

If it is just the rod, I would take it out and see it it is rough on the end.  Like it drags on the rocker arm more than the tappet.

If it is the tappet, I had to fiddle with mine a little to get it up to speed.  The fiddling process is posted around here several times.

The lifter does rotate faster so it looks like it would be draging at the top.

[hotater]

The intake side has a shorter duration so doesn't rotate as much as the exhaust...which practically spins.  While you're checking for rotation be sure to look at the lash caps.  The ones I've ground rotate and some others don't.  I don't know what's 'normal'.

What is the valve clearance when the engine heats up?  If it closes up more than about 30% I'd worry, but they usually get looser.

(You gotta jiggle really fast with the feeler gage to measure it)   

[lendusaquid]

Well i dont know about the valve caps. One is quiet loose and shimmies about and the other is loose but stays still.Cant help you there Mr Hotater

[xyzer]

No rotation bad! any rotation at any speed much better!....
Dave

[Stan]

Too much gap bad!  They have been having problems with one model of the Arrow engine eating push rods.  This has been attributed to too large a gap. Evidently the push rod is supposed to "push" the tappet assembly, not pound it.    Moral, gap it right and check it occasionally.
Stan

[rbodell]

Speaking of valve clearances, Mine came with .008 written in the valve cover. I understand this is not the normal setting. Has anybody else gotten an engine with .008 valve clearances for both valves? What is the normal setting?

Just to clear things up I checked with Ashwamegh and they confirmed they never built a 6-1 with .008 valve settings. Considering the thermostat gasket, the ehad bolts and now this, it was definately intentionally sabotaged. You don't make that many mistakes on one engine by accident. They also don't write it on the valve cover either.

[lendusaquid]

Have you or did you check the valve clearance to see what it actually was?.Iam curious. Its more like crap workmanship and just looks like sabotage cos its so awfull. Have a few beers and think of it as a challenge. 
Because i bought my engine off the net blind ,i had no idea what i was getting.When it arrived i found i had one of the oldest engines around (1931).As i stripped it down i found one part after another was knackered .I thought do i carry on or cut my losses.Despair was an emotion i felt alot but i kept on going.With the amount of money i spent on that engine i could have bought a new Listeroid. Hopefully your problems will come to an end sooner or later.

[Geno]

On my engine .12 and .22 cold equate to about .17 and .32 hot. I've never heard of a 6/1 as tight as .8 .08 and .8 .08 No matter what their set at make sure there is enough clearance at tdc. Spin the engine slowly past tdc and push down on the valves to make sure there is some movement. Do it with the de comp lever engagad too. Do this check hot and cold for a baseline. As Hotater said shorter lift and duration means the intake will spin slower. You can quickly seat the pushrods into their respective seats with some valve grinding paste and a drill.

Thanks, Geno

[rbodell]

On my engine .12 and .22 cold equate to about .17 and .32 hot. I've never heard of a 6/1 as tight as .8 and .8 No matter what their set at make sure there is enough clearance at tdc. Spin the engine slowly past tdc and push down on the valves to make sure there is some movement. Do it with the de comp lever engagad too. Do this check hot and cold for a baseline. As Hotater said shorter lift and duration means the intake will spin slower. You can quickly seat the pushrods into their respective seats with some valve grinding paste and a drill.

Thanks, Geno

Did I say .8? I meant .08. Once I opened them tot he proper settings i did see the rods rotating noticably faster.

[rbodell]

Have you or did you check the valve clearance to see what it actually was?.Iam curious. Its more like crap workmanship and just looks like sabotage cos its so awfull. Have a few beers and think of it as a challenge. 
Because i bought my engine off the net blind ,i had no idea what i was getting.When it arrived i found i had one of the oldest engines around (1931).As i stripped it down i found one part after another was knackered .I thought do i carry on or cut my losses.Despair was an emotion i felt alot but i kept on going.With the amount of money i spent on that engine i could have bought a new Listeroid. Hopefully your problems will come to an end sooner or later.

It was actualy .08. It was asembled in the usa by rocky mountain power source, not in india. He is also the one who wrote the .008 inside the valve cover. I checked with ashwamegh. Head not torqued properly, thermostat installed incorectly and improper valve settings all in one engine and god knows what else i will find yet to come, That is not crap workmanship, that is intentional. After about six months of excuse after excuse after excuse, he only sent it after I threatened to charge him with credit card fraud and internet fraud. I have found that this is not unusual for him. And to think I paid him a thousand dollars to do that kind of work. If I am paying somebody a thousand dollars for labor, I expect it to be right.