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Author Topic: Waste moter oil  (Read 44357 times)

Gregmm

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Waste moter oil
« on: October 25, 2005, 04:28:09 PM »
Can someone tell me the most economical way to clean waste motor oil to use in lister clones

Stevels

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Re: Waste moter oil
« Reply #1 on: October 31, 2005, 03:07:43 AM »
I would be interested in the emissions of waste oil.  Does anyone have a feel for that?  Is it really stinky?
Converting everything I own to run on WVO

quinnf

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Re: Waste moter oil
« Reply #2 on: November 05, 2005, 03:36:52 PM »
Check out the JourneyToForever.org site, especially http://www.journeytoforever.org/biofuel_library/svobib.html

They have a bunch of stuff on biofuels, and suchlike.  There are several links throughout this large site that touch on emissions.  As I recall, nitrogen oxides are somewhat higher, but carbon monoxide is lower than with diesel oil.  Overall, veggie oil is cleaner burning than diesel.  However many engines develop excessive carbon in the combustion chamber while running on alternative fuels.  Fortunately you bought the right engine because Listeroids are indirect injection engines and the slow speed leaves plenty of time for combustion.  I surf there because I'm interested in the biodiesel conversion process. 

Check out also http://www.journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_svo.html

Quinn


cujet

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Re: Waste moter oil
« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2005, 04:25:39 PM »
Hi guys, I sure am glad I found this forum.

Anyway, I live close to Bob (rocketboy aircraft products) and get to experiment with fuels and such for his Lister clone. I provided Bob with an Alfa Laval "Emmie" centrifugal filter, AND well over 1000 gallons of free waste jet fuel. Here is what I have learned so far.

The Alfa Laval centrifugal filter uses a water seal and will effectivly remove water from fuel. However the water seal is blown out by the thick waste motor oil. So diluting it with 50% jet fuel (kerosene) allows it to pass through the filter. However I am not sure the Alfa Laval filter is capable of removing all the fine particulates. The oil is still quite black, even after circulating for a while. I think a better way may be the old farmer method. In any case, the diluted waste oil seems to run just fine in the Lister. I do not notice any unusual smell in the exhaust. However we did try a large concentration of synthetic jet engine oil (exxon 2380) in Bob's Suzuki Samuri diesel (VW Rabbit diesel engine). and it smelled like a pile driver. That smelled so bad that people would not drive behind the Suzuki. However it must be said that Rabbit diesel engines (non turbo) smoke heavily under load and they do emit a strong smell on diesel. The addition of the Exxon 2380 oil  just made it worse.

Anyway, here is my plan to clean the waste motor oil I have.

1) place the oil in a sealed black drum
2) Place the drum in the sun
3) let the larger particulates settle for months and months
4) use a cotton or hemp rope to siphon the oil out of the drum and into a gallon milk container or similar, the oil will be quite clean as cotton filters well.
5) use the contaminated rope to kill termites on your fence posts, by wrapping it around the fence post.
6) dilute the oil 50% and use a pump and force the oil through a Motor Guard .01 micron filter.

Should be very clean oil with no particulates.

Chris
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quinnf

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Re: Waste moter oil
« Reply #4 on: December 05, 2005, 08:04:15 PM »
disregard.  Didn't see the date.
« Last Edit: December 05, 2005, 08:07:04 PM by quinnf »

t19

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Re: Waste moter oil
« Reply #5 on: December 24, 2005, 01:12:10 AM »
So what about mixing waste oil and Waste Veg oil, could that be a good cheap source of fuel?
There is plenty of room for all of Gods creatures... right next to the mashed potatoes...

quinnf

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Re: Waste moter oil
« Reply #6 on: December 24, 2005, 01:49:25 AM »
Andrew,

Sure.  Veggie or mineral oils share the same basic structure.  They'll mix fine.  In fact, if you mix veggie with any mineral oil eg. dizzle, crankcase oil, even paint thinner/kerosene, it'll have less tendency to gel in the fuel lines.  Living where you do, you already know about how you're going to have to find a way to heat your veggie oil to lower its viscosity so that it will flow, pump and spray properly. 

Merry Christmas to you and all the good folks on the 'roid board!   ;D!

Quinn

rocketboy

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Re: Waste moter oil
« Reply #7 on: January 14, 2006, 03:18:28 AM »
On a similar note...
Cummins authorizes up to 5% waste engine oil to be mixed with diesel fuel and then burned in the engine with no ill effects. Cummins obtained a ruling from the EPA agreeing it was better to burn this waste product then to dispose of it using traditional methods.

RB
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SHIPCHIEF

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Re: Waste moter oil
« Reply #8 on: January 14, 2006, 05:19:03 AM »
Yes;
The CUMMINS Century system constantly meters a small amount of the crankcase oil into the fuel stream, then automatically adds make up oil to the crankcase. This extends the oil change interval way out there. You still have to change filters on schedule, but the oil stays sweet for a long time.
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Onan 6.5NH in an old Jeager Compressor trailer and a few CCK's

justsomeguy

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Re: Waste moter oil
« Reply #9 on: January 28, 2006, 05:13:51 AM »
Since I bolted up a Caterpillar two micron fuel filter,  I pour a gallon of waste oil in to my Duramax every other tank of fuel or so.  I figure each gallon replaces that much diesel fuel that I don't have to buy.  I paid for it, I figure I might as well get as much use as I can from that oil. Who knew that waste oil was worth 2.49 a gallon?   ::)

So about 1 gallon of oil to a 34 gallon fuel tank.  No ill affects as of yet.  The truck only has 46K miles on it though.  I also run bypass filtration on it, and pull oil samples every 5K miles, just because I'm a maintanance nazi.  I like less than a 5% mix. I wouldn't want to ever run more than 10 or 20% waste oil, and would definately not want to run that much all the time.  Additive packeges in the oil turn to ash during combustion.  As long as those levels are minimal, the ash can disperse, and that's why I don't run a higher concentration of it, or constantly.  Just a single injector on a V8 Duramax is about $500.  I wouldn't want to know what a compleate upper end overhaul would cost.  So I don't exactly want to try too much more experimentation.

The last gallon I poured in was probably 50% waste oil, and 50% old stale gasoline.  Do I Filter it?  That's what the 2 micron fuel filter on the Duramax is for!  Anything it misses gets caught by the stock 10 micron filter ;D  I'm not worried aobut particles, I'm concerned with disolved metals in the additive package that turn to ash during combustion.  They can't be filtered out.

I do pour it though a "filter funnel" that has probably a 40-80 micron screen.  It catches sand, and chunks that would otherwise possibly clog my fuel pickup in the tank.

So, I pour it in to the fuel tank of my Duramax, but dilute it greatly.  Is anyone brave enough to burn it in their Listers with no dilution at all?  A Cat 2 micron filter would get it clean, and one could jerk the head off after a few hours of operation to check things over for deposits. 

Worst case, a new piston, rings, injector, and valves for a lister wouldn't be all the expensive, would they?

n2toh

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Re: Waste moter oil
« Reply #10 on: January 28, 2006, 08:32:32 AM »
What did you use for the filter head on your CAT2?
About 60 years is all it takes to make science fiction a reality.

SHIPCHIEF

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Re: Waste moter oil
« Reply #11 on: January 28, 2006, 04:27:41 PM »
I like it!
New lube oil formulation is always taking place. If you are burning the oil that you bought (as opposed to burning waste oil you have picked up for free from others), try to buy the latest low ash oil. The newest oils have addative packages designed to minimise damage to catalytic converters, yet also superior wear resistance and extended oil change intervals (yeah, right) Anyway, it's a thought. For Example: Chevron DELO 400 oil is not supposed to be used in 2 stroke Detroit Diesels because of the high ash content. Best to use DELO 100 or DELO RPM. The high ash content is bad for cylinder liners, pistons and rings in a ported 2 stroke, but fine in a 4 stroke. (go figure)
The new ultra low sulfur diesel fuel may increase wear to injector components (unless the oil company added a lubricant, European oil companies add 1 - 3% biodiesel) so bleeding in a little motor oil might be a good thing?
Ashwamegh 25/2 & ST12
Lister SR2 10Kw 'Long Edurance' genset on a 10 gallon sump/skid,
Onan 6.5NH in an old Jeager Compressor trailer and a few CCK's

cujet

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Re: Waste moter oil
« Reply #12 on: January 30, 2006, 12:56:02 PM »
I have come up with a new way to do a fairly good job filtering used motor oil. I siphon it through a motorguard filter. It is quite slow but it works!

Remember the motorguard is a submicron filter with toilet paper used as the filtering media. The spec is supposedly 0.01 micron. I purchased mine online from a auto paint and body shop that has them on sale for around 48 bucks.

Chris
« Last Edit: January 30, 2006, 12:58:24 PM by cujet »
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SHIPCHIEF

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Re: Waste moter oil
« Reply #13 on: January 30, 2006, 03:11:13 PM »
Which supplier? I couldn't find one for less than $58.
Scott E
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Lister SR2 10Kw 'Long Edurance' genset on a 10 gallon sump/skid,
Onan 6.5NH in an old Jeager Compressor trailer and a few CCK's

robc

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Re: Waste moter oil
« Reply #14 on: January 30, 2006, 09:03:08 PM »
Cujet,

I've come to the same conclusion re filtering waste engine oil.  Yesterday I bought a Frantz
setup on eBay. Similar to MotorGuard in the use of TP but the thing I stumbled across is a
demonstator kit... with a motor and pump I hope to easily suck oil from one tank and output into
a clean one. I put a pic in my photo album...

http://listerengine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10013/frantz1.jpg

I was speaking to Ralph Wood about MotorGuards and he reckoned a small one
should be good for a quart a minute and maybe 2 if the oil is warm.  I'm assuming the
Frantz will be similar.

Rob
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