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Author Topic: Corrosion protetion  (Read 3453 times)

jens

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Corrosion protetion
« on: November 02, 2007, 06:32:14 AM »
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« Last Edit: December 26, 2009, 09:21:46 AM by jens »

dkwflight

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Re: Corrosion protection
« Reply #1 on: November 02, 2007, 11:51:05 PM »
Hi
Go with the anode. scrape the outside with a knife to get the crud off.
You don't need to bond everything together. The ions in the water will be enough.
Dennis

Run it hot
28/2 powersolutions JKSon -20k gen head
Still in devlopment for 24/7 operation, 77 hours running time

dkwflight

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Re: Corrosion protetion
« Reply #2 on: November 03, 2007, 12:16:51 AM »
Hi Some say you should change the anode in your domestic water heater every 7 years too.
Dennis
I put an anode in my cooling system and saw a difference immediatly. I use plain water in my system and the rusty water that appeared after a few hours run, stoped.
dennis
« Last Edit: November 03, 2007, 12:25:24 AM by dkwflight »
28/2 powersolutions JKSon -20k gen head
Still in devlopment for 24/7 operation, 77 hours running time

Tom

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Re: Corrosion protetion
« Reply #3 on: November 03, 2007, 01:19:44 AM »
I must be lucky, I ran my 6-1 all summer and just kept adding spring water. When I moved it and needed to dump the tank the water was clear, except for the mass of cooked bugs on the bottom of the tank. Perhaps rain water would work as well too.
Tom
2004 Ashwamegh 6/1 #217 - ST5 just over 3k hours.

MeanListerGreen

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Re: Corrosion protetion
« Reply #4 on: November 03, 2007, 02:51:19 AM »
I brought up a similiar topic a while back.  Here's the link if anyone cares to have a look.  This stuff is meant for use with sleeved engines. 

http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=2625.0
MLG Gib Key Pullers

MeanListerGreen

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Re: Corrosion protetion
« Reply #5 on: November 03, 2007, 09:18:29 AM »
anti cavitation and rust inhibitor.
MLG Gib Key Pullers