Quote `No, looked at that can't find a way to bush it, hole is too big to fit a standard SK bushing....
The ones I looked at were not ballanced.
Doug`
Hi Doug, I`ve had another read through the entire thread and I conclude from this I am suspecting you were referring to the railway wheel? I`m sorry. The post itself was unclear and I actually thought you were referring to the bailer flywheel not being suitable for an SK bushing. My apologies for not being able to read your mind.
As far as your suggestion to find a large section of flat plate and have a wheel cut out that would make a very strong flywheel that could be run faster than the 60 MPH rim speed rule for cast iron wheels (different rule for stronger steel) but unfortunately a uniformly flat flywheel has no concentration of its mass in the outer regions, thus making it physically heavier than need be for any given flywheel effect.
I think it would be possible to flame cut a pair of thick cross sectional (thick in the radial direction) rings from the same heavy plate and weld them to the periphery of the center plate wheel. This could then be turned on a lathe to clean and true it up prior to balancing. As long as the added doghnuts had not been cut through at any point and therefore retained their virginal continuity they should not pose any increased threat of explosion in the finished wheel. This would be a means of adding extra mass to the periphery of the resulting flywheel.
Another method, safer but much more costly to fabricate and wasteful of material woulf be to start with a 3-4 inch thick sheet of steel plate and turn it, hogging material out of the center region to form a enlarged outer ring. I think just the time on a lathe large enough to turn such a beast wiould cost more than buying a new cast and machined commerical offered flywheel product.
Having said all this, if one merely wants to add a DIY flywheel mass to the shaft of their generator/alternator head to provide some smoothing and storage effect at 1800 RPM, flame cutting a solid wheel from 1 to 2 inch thick mild steel plate and then turning it true on a lathe is probably a very practical suggestion and if was sized by the generously conservative 60 MPH rule would be about as safe as one can get. I can even see hogging a DIY wheel like that out somewhat on the own SouthBend lathe which has a maxiumum swing of 16 inches, but would plan to spend a couple of days doing it. This only works since my time is essentially free and the lathe is here at my exclusive beck and call.
Note that the above discussion is all academic in nature and in no-way is intended to be taken as instructions on how to make your own flywheel. Anyone wishing to embark on such an endeavour is doing so entirely at their own risk and responsibility. I cannot be held responsible for any mishaps which might occur as a result of the information provided in this post. Your mileage may vary, batteries not included, bla, bla, bla.