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Author Topic: light bulbs flicker solution.  (Read 28831 times)

clytle374

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Re: light bulbs flicker solution.
« Reply #30 on: November 02, 2007, 11:51:29 PM »
That is pretty neat, did you see the video of it working? I bet it's expensive/

All I got was sound seems I need a new codec, what the hell was wrong with one of the thousands of existing ones.  ???

Expensive to buy but the springs off an old garage door present some possibilities. ;)


I thought codec problems were only experienced by us Linux users, about time someone else has those joys.

rcavictim

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Re: light bulbs flicker solution.
« Reply #31 on: November 03, 2007, 12:18:10 AM »
Well I just decided to spring for the motor on Ebay - supposedly new, $50 plus $50 for postage. It's a Gast 6AM series and is supposed to be about 4 HP. Maximum torque is around 100 in lb at around 300 RPM. Max RPM is 3000 rpm.

It will be 3 weeks before I see this thing. On the bright side, when doing the paypal checkout, the Canadian equivalent was less than $100 !!!! WOOOOHOOOO first time ever when I paid less in CA dollars :)

Jens

You have to get up pretty early to beat a Gast 6AM series motor!   :D  Too bad you bought one.  I would have given you one for free that I have which is rusted inside but may be rebuildable. Sounds like you got a good deal though.

I scored two Gast pumps at the dump which sound like they are way bigger than yours (don`t worry, not a contest! ;)  ) and one works great except I cannot get one carbon vane to come up out of the slot, so it is running on the other three vanes as a pretty fair vacuum pump. If I wanna pull an end I could free the vane. It is CFM`d just about perfectly to work as a mechanical supercharger for a small diesel engine like a 6/1.
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BruceM

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Re: light bulbs flicker solution.
« Reply #32 on: November 03, 2007, 02:55:31 AM »
Hi Jens,
I use a Gast 4AM air motor with a rubber drive wheel (from McMaster.com) and an air cylinder to engage it to the flywheel.  It works very well on my 6/1.  The 6AM is probably a good choice for the 12/1, but you may need to do a shaft extension and bearings and go to a ful width rubber roller for contact across the entire flywheel face.

I don't have any experience with the Gast rotary vane motors as a pump, or with superchargers.  I'd be reluctant to supercharge any engine from Rajkot.

Best Wishes,
Bruce M

BruceM

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Re: light bulbs flicker solution.
« Reply #33 on: November 03, 2007, 08:17:47 PM »
Sorry for the  error, I meant 12/2- not 12/1.   I also tested first with a Vee belt in order to determine if starting torque was adequate.  The rubber roller works just as well, but is easier to engage and disengage.  I'm using a 3" OD wheel, about 2.25" wide.  Good match for the Gast 4AM.  True the wheel by putting stick on sandpaper on your flywheel, spin the motor, then by hand raise spining wheel lightly and briefly into contact.  Then you have a lovely vibration free starter.

Procrustes

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Re: light bulbs flicker solution.
« Reply #34 on: November 03, 2007, 10:03:27 PM »
I will look at a number of different mounting options once I have the unit in my hot little hands.

I've found my new pickup line.  Wish me luck, fellas.

Doug

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Re: light bulbs flicker solution.
« Reply #35 on: November 03, 2007, 10:52:44 PM »
That works on so many levels
It's a Good Life, If You Don't Weaken

BruceM

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Re: light bulbs flicker solution.
« Reply #36 on: November 14, 2007, 05:08:36 AM »
Hockey pucks are too hard, I suspect. Not enough traction. Around rubber tire (auto) hardness is about right, or just bit softer.  The rubber drive roller I got from McMaster.com is    their item 22875T16 and is solid rubber with a 1" ID. I put it over a 1" OD shaft coupler. 

I have a lousey video that does sort of show the starter in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHGuOumfzlY

Best Wishes,
Bruce


Stan

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Re: light bulbs flicker solution.
« Reply #37 on: November 14, 2007, 05:12:44 AM »

mobile_bob

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Re: light bulbs flicker solution.
« Reply #38 on: November 14, 2007, 07:23:01 AM »
Bruce:

pretty cool setup you have there, i like it!


as for air motors

many years ago, while we were slow in the shop,, i decided to do a bit of testing on a smog pump
if you stuff air into the outlet port they make one hell of an air motor
they consume lots of air, but what air motor doesn't?
peak at about 3000rpm, and make tons of torque down at lower rpm
if i recall we measured the torque and got about 3 hp out of one at 150psi

i made an air power winch out of a pair of them, one for up and one for down
it would lift a 750lb transmission much faster than you would want it to.

scrap yards used to be full of them, and they were pretty cheap from there

if someone wants to play with an air start motor, its an option :)

bob g
otherpower.com, microcogen.info, practicalmachinist.com
(useful forums), utterpower.com for all sorts of diy info

BruceM

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Re: light bulbs flicker solution.
« Reply #39 on: November 14, 2007, 03:58:57 PM »
Hey Bob, Thanks for the smog pump tip.  Is the typical smog pump a piston type pump or rotary vane?
A piston type may be more efficient, air use wise.

For the 6/1 engines either a Gast 2AM or 4AM air motors will do the job, and can be found on ebay sometimes.

clytle374

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Re: light bulbs flicker solution.
« Reply #40 on: November 14, 2007, 08:27:33 PM »
I have seen both type of smog pump, the piston type being rare.  What type did you use?  Never thought one of the rotary ones would hold together at 150psi.

clytle374

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Re: light bulbs flicker solution.
« Reply #41 on: November 30, 2007, 04:03:12 AM »
I don't think that a air tank(unless huge) would help, It would be exhausted to quick.  Sounds like you need more RPM to get it over center,  if you almost get there now get rid of the 1/4" line. 
Area of 1/2" is twice 3/8" which is twice of 1/4"
1/4" won't even run my die grinder very well.


ronmar

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Re: light bulbs flicker solution.
« Reply #42 on: November 30, 2007, 04:57:40 AM »
Well available torque in an air motor, like applied torque/force in a hydraulic motor or cylinder is a factor of working surface(vane/piston) area and pressure applied. RPM or cylinder speed is a factor of the volume of fluid supplied, and of course torque applied to overcome what ever drag is associated with rotating an object.  Is the pressure at the motor remaining at full rated pressure(add a "T" and a gauge right at the motor)?  If as suggested, the supply line is too small, as the motor RPM increases and it consumes more fluid(air), the pressure at the motor and the torque it provides will drop off due to flow restriction.  I would first try feeding it with the largest line you can right up to the motor port to try and overcome the friction and supply line loss issues you described.  Unless you can maintain the full rated supply pressure at the motor, it will never reach it's full potential.

Ron     
PS 6/1 - ST-5.

hotater

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Re: light bulbs flicker solution.
« Reply #43 on: November 30, 2007, 11:59:12 AM »
Jens---

Along with more air you may want a bigger drive wheel to increase starting RPMs.   That will slow your 'time to speed' some, but increase the energy needed to carry it over TDC.
  Box conveyor wheels and caster wheels are a good source for handy diameters.
7200 hrs on 6-1/5Kw, FuKing Listeroid,
Currently running PS-Kit 6-1/5Kw...and some MPs and Chanfas and diesel snowplows and trucks and stuff.

rcavictim

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Re: light bulbs flicker solution.
« Reply #44 on: November 30, 2007, 05:24:32 PM »
I went through a mental excercise last night about all the bits I would need to upgrade in order to improve my air flow significantly. The bottom line seems to be that it will be too expensive. I am better off to find myself an old 100 lb propane tank and press that into service as an accumulator tank and run a short fat feed from it to the air motor.
Larger drive wheels, while making sense given the circumstances, are not practical due to the extra torque required. I figure I need a minimum of 100% more speed and even that would be cutting it close. I do not have that much spare torque in the air motor - it has a reasonable margin of extra power with the current drive wheel but not enough to up size the drive wheels by any significant amount.
Time to go scrounging for that air tank .....

Jens

Wanna remind us again why a simple DC starting motor and common 12 volt car battery float charged by a small battery charger driven from the 120 volt AC your plant makes when it runs (or the utility mains) is not good enough for this job?  Seems to me you are going to a LOT of trouble to avoid KISS.
-DIY 1.5L NA VW diesel genset - 9 kW 3-phase. Co-gen, dualĀ  fuel
- 1966, Petter PJ-1, 5 kW air cooled diesel standby lighting plant
-DIY JD175A, minimum fuel research genset.
-Changfa 1115
-6 HP Launtop air cooled diesel
-Want Lister 6/1
-Large DIY VAWT nearing completion