6KW GENSET: LOVSON 8/1

[sanchez]

HI,

TO THE PUBLIC CONSIDERATION HERE IS MY 6KW (5 KW. CONTINUOUS), I USED A 8/1 LOVSON, RADIATOR FAN VENTILATED (NIPONDENSO), 6KW. BRUSHLESS GENERATOR, AND A CUSTOM MADE FRAME.
VIEW THE ENGINE IN ACTION:                           http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lts2y7pcA_0

[rpg52]

Hi Sanchez,

Just a word of warning - I have a similar size radiator on my 6/1 and on a warm day with a ~2500 watt load it overheated and started boiling.  I'm adding a fan to my radiator.  Maybe I just couldn't see the fan on yours in the video?   
Ray 

[ronmar]

The setup and frame that I could see looks great, have you run it under load yet?  Common rule of thumb is about 1electrical KW output from a generator per 2 engine HP for sustained operation.  I would think you will be hitting your limit at a little over 4-4.5KW sustained.  

However, I think you are going to run into problems before you get to that much load.  Your coolant lines are more horizontal than vertical, particularly the upper line running between head and radiator top.  Thermosiphon is a very gentle process and requires a steep exit angle.  IMO, it should be no less than 45 degrees.  Think of it like a chimney on a woodstove, the horizontal component must be less than the vertical component or the smoke won't exit upward and the stove won't draw in fresh air.  I don't think yours is going to perform well when things get hot.  You could either move the radiator closer to the engine which will increase the exit angle from the head to radiator top, raise the radiator, or both.  If flow is good, then the size of the radiator as mentioned may limit your cooling ability.

I also see you used clear(vinyl?) coolant lines.  Are these temperature rated?  Most are not and get mushy above 150F.  With that engine at full load, you are going to be getting near 200F coolant out of that head pipe.  If you have a thermostat installed(reccomended), you will get near this temp all the time.  For this application, you should use black rubber automotive radiator/heater hose.  I have used clear vinyl hose to monitor thermosiphon coolant flow in some of my heatexchanger experiments, but I always put it on the heatexchanger outlet back to the bottom of the cylinder.  This coolant is closer to 100F.  As cool as it is to watch the flow, I don't think I will incorporate it into the final installation.

My .02 having done a lot of experementation in the thermosiphon/thermal transfer area recently.

Ron        

[peterako]

Nice setup,
your low connection from your cooling radiator must be above the high out output from the engine. to have a good cooling.
I also see that you are using a pressure cooling  . Keep in mind that this engine is not designed for cooling pressure , just keep the buffer tank open. and use cooling liquid for cars to avoid rust.

When i see your paint work i have the idea that you dit not oped your engine yet.

I am running also a lovson 6/1 and found some nice cooling casting mistakes in the engine head.
And after you replace the exhaust by a tractor exhaust the sound will drop.

I am loading my setup to 3600 Watt i also have a 5KW generator but if you check the sound you will find a good balance.
I am using my setup to charge my battery bank and my inverter charger is loading the generator perfect.

Greetings from Greece

[ronmar]

I also see that you are using a pressure cooling  . Keep in mind that this engine is not designed for cooling pressure , just keep the buffer tank open. and use cooling liquid for cars to avoid rust.

Good eyes, I didn't catch that the first go around.  I would not run this radiator/engine combination pressurized.  I personally feel that the "O" rings on the sleeve are stout enough to handle the 10-15PSI that modern auto radiators operate at.  Where I feel you may run into problems is with air buildup at the top of the radiator.  You don't have much room to play with in the top of that radiator and for thermosiphon to operate, the top of the radiator must remain full of fluid.  With the cap intact, the radiator can't vent any built uip air till the pressure rateing on the cap is exceeded.  Although, this may happen rather quickly if hte thermosiphon flow is interrupted:)  I would drill thru the lower seal/plate on the radiator cap or remove the little check valve plate on the inner seal of the cap.  the outer seal will keep the fluid in the radiator, but by bypassing the inner seal, fluid will easilly flow from the radiator to the expansion tank(as it should).  Any air will quickly pass into the expansion tank with the slightest pressure change as the engine warms, to be replaced by fluid from the expansion tank.

Ron   

[sanchez]

hi guys,

thanks for the observations, the radiator have a electric fan and the radiator is not presurized, I took off the pressure check from the cap, if you see, the radiator is connected to a water reservoir. I am testing with 5000 watts resistance heater, the water after 6 hours is 190 degrees.

initially, the speed regulation was too poor, from 63Hz to 55Hz, the problem was fixed, I took the idea from utterpower.com, the probles is the spring aligment, if the spring bends during his travel, the response is not proportional, after align the spring, now the speed regulation is from 63 Hz to 58.4 Hz, at really full load.

guys, can some one teach me how to post pictures with the text?

[sanchez]

the water hose sugestion is right, when the engine is hot, the hose turn too soft an begin to appear like a boiled spagetti. I'll procced to change for a automotive one.

thanks ronmar

[Quinnf]

To post pics, your pics must be uploaded to some site on the web.  Webshots.com, or photobucket.com, or any of a number of others will do it.  Forget Coppermine.  I think it was designed by a misanthrope.

Once you have your pics loaded on that site, copy the URL (being an old CP/M and DOS guy, I just highlight the URL in the box beneath the picture and hit CTRL-C for copy), then open go back to your post, select the little picture icon (in the second row, second from the left) above the text window if you're composing a message as I am now, and two (img)(/img) thingies will appear. 

Position the cursor BETWEEN the ] and [ marks and hit CTRL-V and your link will be pasted in. 

Like this:



Give it a try.

Quinn

[ronmar]

hi guys,

thanks for the observations, the radiator have a electric fan and the radiator is not presurized, I took off the pressure check from the cap, if you see, the radiator is connected to a water reservoir. I am testing with 5000 watts resistance heater, the water after 6 hours is 190 degrees.

I would be thiking that 5KW sustained would really be pushing the outside of the envelope.  How are you measuring your electrical load?  Do you have current and voltage readings?  Do you have a thermostat installed at the coolant outlet pipe on the cylinder head?

Ron

[sanchez]

Hi,

first, thanks for the pictures posting instructions. I have boht reading, volts (112) and Amp (40., as I am using resistive load, the calculations are based in the ohm law: P=V (I),           P: power in watts, v: tension in volts, and I: intensity in amperes. doing maths P=112 (40.=> P=4569.6W, 4.6KW.

Today, I kept that power sustained for 7 hours, I do not have thermostat, the temp raise normally in 3 minutes to operational levels (I am in the hot caribbean). Guys, this is working really great. I have a power rental company, www.power-rent.com , the purpouse of this tes is to explore exploit the listeroids comercially in the dominican republic and Haiti, but before invest in this engines I preffer to test with only one machine. I'll test the engine in the most severe conditions, almost destructives tests, but the listeroid must say what are they done.

[sanchez]

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[sanchez]

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[sanchez]

HERE IS A NEW VIDEO, I CAN'T POST PICTURES.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=JXJ4nb81IO4


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[sanchez]

THIS IS A PHOTO ALBUM:

http://community.webshots.com/album/560684075NvVKEg