WVO two tank system

[MIspecial]

Is any one currently running a two tank system that want to share info.  I would like to see some photos of how it is done.  I know that there are alot of ways it could be done.  But if someone has a simple way to heat wvo and manual transfer, I would be interested in see or hear about it.  Matt

[n2toh]

the biggest issue I have encountered with running WVO in my Volkswagen has been cold weather handling.

[WWIProps]

I use the existing fuel tank for regular diesel and then have a 16 gallon day tank that is mounted on the wall right next to my coolant tank.  The day tank gets up to about 100F from the heat radiating off of the coolant tank. 

I run the fuel through filter/water separator, copper coil around the exhaust and T into the line after the existing fuel filter.  There is a shutoff valve for the diesel after the filter which keeps the WVO from backfeeding.   Home Depot sells really nice 1/4" ball valves and brass Ts that work well for this.

I am trying to figure out a convenient way to heat the line between the injector pump and the injector.  The line is not hot to the touch so I am concerned that my spray pattern may not be as good due to the oil probably not staying hot all the way up to the injector.

Any brilliant ideas?  Anyone know how to easily duplicate the ends of the fuel fittings?

Scott

[Joe]

I've been to a site that sold heated (12V) fuel line...seems that would be the ticket...

I just looked, but could not find a link....maybe someone else out there has it?

Joe

[n2toh]

I know of this http://www.arctic-fox.com/pdf/Hotline_flier.pdf and this http://www.fattywagons.com/fwproducts.htm but  the best bang for the buck is Self-Regulating Heat Cable the specs say it will hold 150°F from http://www.mcmaster.com/

[WWIProps]

I hate generating electricity to add heat back into the engine that already gives off copious amounts of heat.  There weren't any stats on how much the heat cable draws, anyone know?

If we could make our own injector line it could be run right along the cylinder head.

Could the injector be hot enough that it will raise the temp of the oil the last 40-50F anyway and this is not as big of an issue as we think?  Any long term WVO folks out there that have some thoughts?

Scott

[MIspecial]

I have on order a kit from Frybrid for my 2000 F250.  The auxiliary fuel tank is in the bed of the truck with a coolant heated exchanger in the tank.  I would be intrested in doing the same for my lister if the second tank could be made for a reasonable price.

[Joe]

Fattywagons...that was it...they also have a hose within a hose set up...seems easy enough...as long as there is a means to push both fluids through there...and you can get temp up high enough for the length you are working with. I wonder why aluminum inner tube vs. copper...price- weight- availability?

Joe

[SHIPCHIEF]

Each cylinder burns about 1 quart per hour, so I imagine the fuel spends alittle time in the nice hot cylinder head area as it slowly moves toward the injector tip.
Keep the valve cover on, and maybe put a slit piece of hose over the high pressure injection line where the cool air is blowing off the flywheel? That should be an easy way to reduce heat loss until it gets to the head.

[Bill()C]

There's lots of coolant ideas out there so I would not resort to electric for this one.  I'm doing my third auto conversion... been through one winter.  I like Vegtherm (www.plantdrive.com) for my cars as a boost, but see no reason to do it for a stationary engine.  Coolant is the way to go.

You can wrap copper tubing around the fuel line T'd off coolant system.  Actually my plan is to just use a flat plate heat exchanger (find them on eBay and I think Frybrid sells them, so does Plantdrive I believe). That and in in tank heat exchanger should be all that's needed.

Since the engine will be staring me in the face while running I just plan on good ol' ball valves to divert from my biodiesel fuel tank to my WVO.

[danalinscott]

Although Flat Plate heat Exchangers are handy..and inexpensive ($80) they are major overkill for such a low fuel flow IMO. It is easy to make a small multitube heat exchanger for about 1/4 the cost of a FPHE that should be able to heat VO to 20°- 30° cooler than the engine coolant.  An injector line heater should then be able to heat the VO to around 200-250°F.  Avoiding both injector and ring land/groove coking requires switching to VO from diesel only afte the engine reaches full operating temps but this can easily be automated inexpensivly on a genset.  Constant duty engines also need to vary the flamefront to minimse coking. There are severaal way to accomplish this.  I highly reccomend adding a thermostat to any listeroid you plan to convert..and possibly changin the timing slightly.

It is 1 am and I have been workign since 7...and have to do that againg tomorrow.
Time to get a solid 6 hours of sleep.
If anyone wants more info email me..I may not notice a post here for months otherwise.