ST head prep

[okiezeke]

Doug, I got some closer pics of my ST15.  If there is any particular area you'd like to see let me know.
Zeke

[Doug]

I can't realy think of any other angles I'd like to see....

Thank you.

I'm just trying to understand why some heads have a gusset between the feet and frame while others don't.

Personaly I'd like to see a completely different machine with a rolled steel  frame and a cast iron or steel base that bolts or is welded in. My only reasons are steel is easier to fix if its broken and less material is required for a lighter stronger machine.

Doug

[okiezeke]

Doug,
I wonder, is it just that cast iron is cheaper.  Seems like it would be more work to make and finish a casting than to weld out of steel.

Glyptal is pretty pricy.  Do you know anywhere to get it cheaper?  Can buy a quart for about the same price as a spray can.  Is there any problem with brushing vs. spraying?  Thanks
Zeke

[rbodell]

Well for starters the name Jinlong turns up about as many different electrical companies as one could hope for and so far non make ST heads ( or will admit to it I guess ).


Here's all the pictures I have ready at this time.

http://www.putfile.com/dougwp/images/102508

I noticed the carpet. Either your workbench is carpeted or you assembled it on your living room floor. Nice touch either way LOL.

I used to know a woman who asembled the engine from her woody station wagon on her living room floor. Rite on the white carpet. I asked her why on the white carpet. Her answer was "that was the cleanest place in the house". Too bad her husband didn't apreciate what he had there. He finally divorced her because all she wanted to do on weekends was to go fishing and build hot rods.

[Doug]

Thank you for the comment on the carpet....

I'm moving from Shack to a Shed and a shop a mile and a half beloow the earths surface....

No joke.

I'm also painting and working outside, not out of choice but rather lack of space and time lol.

Zeke I havw no idea where you can buy it by the quart cheaper, this isn't a cheap product to start with....

1201 has the advantaga you can thin it to what ever you like over the 1201A in the spray cans. Westinghouse special products has something pretty close and there are other cheaper products that are "electrical finnishes" rated for CLass F use. Talk to your local indsutrial elelctrical suply outlet and tell them you want a product like 1201A and see if they have something cheaper.

I had lots of this stuff left over, as well as lacing, A few sheets of DMD and Glastic. When my stash runs out I'm in the same boat as you ( 1/2 a can of 1201A is all I got lol ).



I guess I should add a progress report eh?

I started a new dog house. Totaly enclosed  and a little bigger, I scavanged some other parts and sheared an small cover and panle insert. Its nothing relay spectacular but there is a lot of room for improvement over the Chinese version.

Doug

[okiezeke]

Glyptal,
Folks, found a deal on glyptal on ebay.  10.00 a spray can, shipping included.  Search glyptal, they had a bunch on stock.

Also found quarts for under 40.00 at Caswell, inc.
Zeke

[xyzer]

Glyptal,
Folks, found a deal on glyptal on ebay.  10.00 a spray can, shipping included.  Search glyptal, they had a bunch on stock.

Also found quarts for under 40.00 at Caswell, inc.
Zeke

Good find Zeke! I bought 2 cans to get the shipping down a bit. Thanks for the alert!
Dave

[Doug]

When the stuff gets old ( I mean many years ) some of the contents of the cans tend to gell and clog in spray bombs. The 1201 in cans might be a better choice if its old stock.

I had a case of Westinghouse that came out like gravel gaurd. Still word fine but it clogged up the spary tips and pissed me off a lot.

10 bucks a can is still expensive try an electrical suplier and see if they have something else, then ask a local motor shop what they think of it.

Also:

Electrical polyester epoxy has a shelf life. Most shops won't use it after that date but if its kept cool and not grosely old I'd be inclined to use that over new glyptal if you can find it. It mixes and pours like fiberglass resin and has to be used on a warm winding ( 150 deg F or so ) for best result.

[hsvham]

 - Glyptal 1201 - $22.40 per quart can - call your local GE Supply branch.

hsvham

[okiezeke]

hsvham,
guess I shoulda waited, that's 10.00 a can cheaper than I just bought.
Zeke

[Doug]

I've added some more pictures to my putfile.....

The pictures of interest are of the wiring inside the dog house. I'm not realy inpressed with this so its getting scrapped. I have a biger encloser I slavaged from a joystick remote box and some odds and ends. My single biggest flaw with what the Chinese did is no protection for the harmonic winding and field so this will be added both ends fused at probably 4 or 5 amps and run issolated from ground just as the factory intended. Metering will also get an upgrade, some fusing and a selector switch witht he factory meter so I can flip between L1-N, L2-N and L1 and L2. I may add a amp meter and frequency meter if something that pops up....

Also up loaded a small double pole double throw isolation switch I salvaged ( very retro 1960s Square D ) and a fairly modern Fused disconnect. Both are 30 amp 240 rated. For the curious the red painted switch in a previous life served central blasting switch with fire/prime/short as its function....

The Qc guy has it on HIS bench giving that old defeater a tweak.....

http://www.putfile.com/dougwp/images/102508

Still waiting on Pat at Altopro to ship the replacement end bell....
Poor bugger is in pickel trying to fill orders while he moves to his new shop for the currious as to why he's running late on orders.

Waiting on some pictures of a burnt ST 12, I suspect the lack of protection in the Harmonic/field wiring lead to failure. More information as it comes in.

Doug

[okiezeke]

Doug,
Great pics.  I would like to fuse everything that needs it.  Is there any easy way to tell where the harmonic/field fuse should go.  Meter fuse is pretty obvious.

I took the bolts out of the end piece of my ST15 today.  Gentle prying loosened the end from the body, but much wiggling and twisting would not free the end from the bearing.  Even tried some very light tapping, but no go.  So, off to the junkyard in the AM for a piece of 1/4 or 5/16 plate to make a puller.

Thanks again for starting this thread.  So much I didnt even know I should do to the ST for long and happy life.
Zeke

[Doug]

I'll post some pictures later

[okiezeke]

Got the ST15 apart,  No coating on the coils other than the wire being varnish coated.  Can easily wiggle the wires with a fingernail.  In fact can wiggle some of the steel laminations with a fingernail.  Bearings are 6309 and 6310.  Had plenty of grease, but feel rough.  Must be rust spots or grit in the grease.  (or just crap bearings)Will get best perm lubed ones I can find.  Pics soon.
Zeke

[okiezeke]

Rotor, showing uncoated coils





Plastic fan, good or bad?



Simple puller.  Scrap 1/4" plate with 4-1/4" holes and bolts.



Chineese bearings, ready for the scrap barrel.



Strongly reccommend.  Harbor freight hydraulic bearing puller.  Fast and easy.