Author Topic: Braze it or silver Solder it?  (Read 10757 times)

Stan

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Re: Braze it or silver Solder it?
« Reply #15 on: September 28, 2007, 02:26:12 AM »
Sounds good, I'll look around and see if I can find it locally.
stan

sid

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Re: Braze it or silver Solder it?
« Reply #16 on: September 28, 2007, 03:24:47 AM »
the only trouble with sil-fos(silver phosphorous) is it is hard to buy just a little/ also it comes in different silver content/more silver the more it cost but the stronger the joint/ almost any good welding shop or appliance parts store or ref. supply house will sell it to you but you need to figure out what you are going to use the othe 27 1/2 sticks for/ a lot of compressors that I installed came with a 5-6 inch piece/so I have a box of 2 in pieces left over//I know i never had to buy less than 2 lbs in 30 years of ref, repair//a little goes a long way /if you can find a ref, tech around he might be willing to part with a short piece// I hold it in needle nose pliers when it gets to hot to hold/but it sure makes a strong repair/but I still prefere silver when I have it.it makes a copper to steel repair that will never leak//but it is a lot harder to use.. sid
15 hp fairbanks morris1932/1923 meadows mill
8 hp stover 1923
8 hp lg lister
1932 c.s bell hammer mill
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5 hp des jardin 1926
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Doug

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Re: Braze it or silver Solder it?
« Reply #17 on: September 28, 2007, 04:29:01 AM »
I used those fancy silver alloy rods too, on copper connections in motors. Flows nice and makes a strong bond but thats the only experience I have with them ( but I did use some rod to repair cooling shrouds but thats because we didn't have any bronze rod ).

With very little experience outside the motor buisness I can only say I became comfortable enough with the Silphos rods that I never bothered to switch from a cutting to welding tip on the torch I used. On copper they were that nice to use.....

Doug
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Firebrick

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Re: Braze it or silver Solder it?
« Reply #18 on: December 24, 2007, 08:30:10 PM »
Brazing is very strong in tension if the gaps are fine.  Many pre aluminum/carbon fiber race bicycles and even allot of yesteryear race/sport cars had brazed thin wall tube frames and failure was always due to sloppy fit up or not cleaning the joint prior to brazing and not common.  In my welding literature brazing has higher tensile strength than steel (which is the stress on the joint) so it should be fine if done correctly (tight fit up shouldn't be a problem with your clamp)  Silver solder (which is actually brazing) equals or exceeds standard brass brazing strength but will not match the color.  A small piece of thin brass maybe an 1/2 inch long brazed to the back side of the joint would assure that it would not break (lap joints are preferred in brazing).  After brazing a coping saw and small file would be used to clean it up and no one would know the difference when installed.  For specs go to the American Welding Society website.  WWW.AWS.org