Author Topic: Soldering a fuel tank  (Read 15737 times)

okiezeke

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Re: Soldering a fuel tank
« Reply #15 on: March 21, 2007, 12:43:45 AM »
Rosie,
Just wanted to say welcome to the forum.  We dont have many girl type people among this grease smeared bunch of grizzled gearheads and other misfits.  Glad you're here and mabe we can get some info from a different, more feminine angle.
Zeke
Changfa type 25hp with 15kw ST head
Lovson 20-2 in blueprinting/rebuild
International TD-15 B  1962 dozer
Changfa 8 hp., 280 A battery charger

Doug

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Re: Soldering a fuel tank
« Reply #16 on: March 23, 2007, 02:10:25 AM »
She's cool!

Thank you Rose:

I used to work with a Rosie, she was a real chef, and drove a huge electric haulage truck. I called here the "queen of the ramp"  ( she hauled ore up ).

We need more women in trades and heavy industry, they add a whole new way of thinking to the job and its keeps the swearing and makes you think and look around before you look for a place to relieve yourself in the mine lol....

My god she what she could do with food, she was the corp chef and was down sized and expected to quit rather than move to a mine job. She showed them, went underground and did a "man's" job!

She's pushing 60 now, and can swear a streak that would make a sailor blush, but when she walks out the ladies dry in here street cloths she is the perfect "Grandma".

Doug
It's a Good Life, If You Don't Weaken

listerdiesel

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Re: Soldering a fuel tank
« Reply #17 on: March 27, 2007, 08:32:02 AM »
We have a few fillers necks as used on the original CS tanks, somewhere....  we wanted a couple and ended up buying a minimum order of 10, so give me a shout if you want one.

The construction of the Lister tanks changed over the years to suit production methods, and early ones were soildered, but crystalline deterioration led to seams opening up.

I'd use brass sheet personally, or get the seams mig or tig welded and cleaned up.

We have a couple of big Weller thermostatically controlled irons at the factory, very useful for small stuff, and if you use a decent flux and get the joints tinned, you should have no trouble. A lot of the old fluxes are banned now on environmental grounds, and even solder is starting to get hard to buy in retail places.

Resin/Rosin flux is OK for Brass but you need something better for steel, so try and find some 'Bakers Fluid' or 'Killed Spirits', keep any flames away from the surface of the metal as it will oxidise the metal and make it harder to tin. A big 1" square chunk of copper filed to a point would be fine, keep it hot in a non-oxidsing flame from a gas torch. If the flame turns green you are starting to overheat the copper! :-))

Peter