Lister flywheel removal

[wirenutrob]

I am sure there is a trick to removing these big flywheels. I made a jig out of 1/4" plate steel used 4 grade 8 bolts 1/2" thick.Tapped the plate and mounted the jig up to the flywheel. I kept the jig small but despite my efforts  I put so much pressure on th gib key it bent the jig plate . I have knocked out the paint and put some oil on the gib key area. I wish the flywheel had holes in it like the petters model. Is there some special order of operation? I pulled straight out on that key and all it did was crack the paint off it(a little).
suggestions and  ideas
Thanks,
Rob

[okiezeke]

Rob,
Seems like most folks are using thicker than 1/4" stock to get the needed stiffness.  Mine is 1/2" and worked well.  I've seen others up to 1" thick.  No gib key will bend that.
Zeke

[JohnF13]

Rob;

Zeke is right - minimum thickness of plate you need is 1/2" and even that can be touch and go, depending on which Herculean Indian drove the keys in.  Another trick while using the puller is to use an air chisel with a long blunt tip, pass it through the hole in the wheel and hammer on the back of the gib key head.  All the while, watch out for arching of the key - tap it down in the middle if that happens.

You also have to make SURE that all the debris is out of the keyway - check the sides of it for any burrs (caused by a/m Indian and his sledgehammer) and clean them off with a dremel if necessary.  Use a lot of Kroil or WD40.

They will come out eventually......

[agroot]

Clean all that paint off of the key and crank first.  Then, as John said, clean up the keyway.  My puller is 3/4" thick.

Be prepared for a broken key!  one of mine had a crack extending through 1/2 its cross section.  The tang broke off while attempting to remove it.  I made drill guides on a mill, and drilled the sucker out.  It took the best part of three days, and 12 long drill bits.

Good Luck, and have fun!

[Houndog]

I've been having the same trouble as Rob. Been fighting with that blasted key for two weeks with different style pullers. Zeke gave me a wonderful idea and I made a puller out of a McMaster Carr shaft collar - drilled and tapped 4 holes, 3/8 grade 8 bolts. Still no go. I've been so annoyed that I have gotten away from it for a few days. Keys have temporarily whipped me. Seems my problem is that the backside of my Gib key is angled and as soon as I begin tightening down against it, my pulling devices start to angle and then wedge themselves sideways on the crankshaft, creating far more resistance to pull agianst. Plus, I'm a bit afraid to tighten down against the Indian casting of the flywheel hub with the grade 8's for fear of cracking the flywheel.

Houndog
 

[Stan]

There's tons of good advice on removing gib keys on Smokstak   http://www.smokstak.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=5     
These guys have been doing it for years!  Just do a search.
Stan

[agroot]

I've been having the same trouble as Rob. Been fighting with that blasted key for two weeks with different style pullers. Zeke gave me a wonderful idea and I made a puller out of a McMaster Carr shaft collar - drilled and tapped 4 holes, 3/8 grade 8 bolts. Still no go. I've been so annoyed that I have gotten away from it for a few days. Keys have temporarily whipped me. Seems my problem is that the backside of my Gib key is angled and as soon as I begin tightening down against it, my pulling devices start to angle and then wedge themselves sideways on the crankshaft, creating far more resistance to pull agianst. Plus, I'm a bit afraid to tighten down against the Indian casting of the flywheel hub with the grade 8's for fear of cracking the flywheel.

Houndog
 

A couple of websites recommend filing or grinding the tangs square.  This helps to eliminate the tendancy towards angling of the puller. An alternative method is to grind or file a corresponding angle on your puller.   As to tightening against the casting... place a piece of CRS or channel against the casting to distribute the pressure.   Good luck with this.

[wirenutrob]

I GOT IT! ,

THANK YOU GUYS SO MUCH!!
I got a 1/2" piece of cold roll steel 6"wide x 12" cut a hole 2" in the center made a nitch for the gib key. I drilled 1 hole left of key and one right of key then since the wheels hub is raised  I used a spacer above the gib key and drilled 2 holes here in the jig to control the tilt of the pull.4 bolts in all. I stacked 2 pieces of small 1/4" plate to cover gib key hole. This took up all the space need to start the pull. The 1/2" fine thread Grade 8 bolts worked like a dream. I heard the engine grone and then pop, the rest was easy.
Now, I got the rest of the engine apart but the fuel cam lobe under the fule pump looks like it was press fitted with a cold roll pin through it ..... Is that right ? It is in a real bad place to try pressing a clamp on the pin... Any tips on removing this pin? If I don't get this pin out the lifter cam will not come out. I was thinking of trying to tap it out but i don't know....
Thanks again,
Rob

[okiezeke]

Rob,
It's a taper pin that's been peened over.  Figure out which end is the smaller and grind it flat to the surface.  Then you can whack it out with a punch.  Takes at least one pretty sharp whack to get it started.  If it wont come, check again that you dont have the big end by mistake.  McMaster will sell you a new taper pin for re-assembly.
Zeke

[Geno]

Now, I got the rest of the engine apart but the fuel cam lobe under the fule pump looks like it was press fitted with a cold roll pin through it ..... Is that right ? It is in a real bad place to try pressing a clamp on the pin... Any tips on removing this pin? If I don't get this pin out the lifter cam will not come out. I was thinking of trying to tap it out but i don't know....
Thanks again,
Rob

Is the fuel cam lobe bad or installed improperly? Thats the only reason I can think of to remove it. Those taper pins can be a PITA. Don't mess with them if you don't have to.

If your talking about roller lifter pin mine came out easily but I didn't need to remove it to remove the lifter. Loosen the set screw and the lifter should lift right out. Check the roller to make sure it was drilled on center. Mine was off .018" which caused a 2.5° erratic timing.


Thanks, Geno

[wirenutrob]

Zeke -

You were right, I ground the mushroom top off and punched out the pin in two sharp hits.
The bolck is 100% down now. I took it to a hot car wash to give it a bath. Now all I need is new pistons, rings, main bearings, rod bearings and a whole lot of those paper gaskets. Where did you get your parts from?
Thanks again,
Rob

[okiezeke]

Rob,
I;ve bought parts from utterpower, alternate energy, and rocky mountain power systems and all have been good experiences.  Stay away from generator depot usa as they dont stand behind their stuff.  Good luck,
Zeke

[wirenutrob]

Houndog -


I wanted you to see a real basic gib key no frills.....

http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4875369

Made out of 1/2" CR steel

Good luck
I'll watch for your progress 
Rob

[Houndog]

Thanks Rob -
I've got a shop cutting me out out a nice stout puller like you and Zeke have. I'm such a knucklehead though. I knew in my heart from the outset, that I needed this type of meaty steel, but I figured that I could "get by" with this or that. After spending 20 here, 18 there, 25 over there, etc.... I'd have already paid for the right tool, probably twice already. Must be a defect in my genes or something. I've been trying to change myself for years! I'll let you know as soon as job is completed.

Houndog

[okiezeke]

Rob,
Nice puller, simpler than the two piece style, and probably less likely to warp as pressure is applied.  KISS at its best.
Zeke