alternate method to clean rust off of small parts

[cujet]

I discovered this through a friend. It works very well. Get a tupperware or similar plastic container. Fill that container with white vinegar and place your rusted parts in. Let it sit for 2 days to 2 weeks. It will look like nothing has happened, but when you remove the parts, the heavy rust wipes off revealing perfectly clean metal underneath. My results so far seem to indicate that it is very effective in removal of heavy rust.

Chris

[rcavictim]

Not to mention it will make those small parts taste better with french fries. 

[Doug]

And gravy with some cheeze curds, lots of Pepper and a Pint Guiness....

Doug

[Stan]

Now that I've gone and had some lunch...You should go over to SmokStak and search out electrolysis as a way of removing rust.
Stan

http://www.smokstak.com/forum/search.php?searchid=318441

[rcavictim]

Now that I've gone and had some lunch...You should go over to SmokStak and search out electrolysis as a way of removing rust.
Stan

http://www.smokstak.com/forum/search.php?searchid=318441

Will electrolysis remove unsightly hairline cracks in cylinder heads?

[Doug]

I think this topic is way over due....

What is the safest way to clean rust and descale these engines?

I was considering a lot of different things on the block and liner in Gus. I dare not try and press it out for fear of messing up the engine beyond repair.

CLR?
Electrolosis?
Acid?
Base?

Doug

[rcavictim]

Sandblasting!

[Stan]

There's lots of alternatives to sand blasting.  I've personal experience (good) with walnut shell blasting, there's bead blasting etc.
Stan

[Doug]

Thats all fine and dandy for parts, but lets look at chemicals....

Gus is going to need a descaling thanks to the half pint of Indian water that was shipped over in the cooling system. I'd like to try and do something before I crank it over. Corrosion inside the block and liner makes pressing it apart look like a bad idea....

Some of the Listers are going to need to be descaled eventualy too, so are the hopper cooled horizontals....

Doug

[rmchambers]

I wonder if we couldn't do something using electricity.  The rust would have to be less noble than the cast iron it comes from, perhaps using a suitable replacement coolant (something with salt in it for conductivity) and a negative in the water and positive attached to the engine.  I'd think that the electrolysys would move the rust along.  I doubt you'd need too much time set up this way, use a car battery or something and see how it goes.  Once it's done, flush it all out well and replace it with a "proper" coolant that won't deposit scale/allow rust/etc.

As for scale, acetic acid will dissolve that and thinking of which, it was already mentioned here that it dissolves rust as well.  Perhaps a gallon or two of white vinegar in a warm/hot engine would be all you'd need to crack up the scale (and any rust).

Again, a thorough flush and replacement with a "proper" coolant and you should be all set.

Robert

[rcavictim]

If you want to clean the inside of the water jacket mix up a diluted solution of muriatic acid.  That will quickly dissolve rust and scale.  Rinse with plenty of fresh water and neutralize with a bit of baking soda in one of the rinses.  Coat with ethylene glycol anti freeze solution  mix if you don`t want to see immediate formation of fresh rust.

[Stan]

I"d be carefull with muriatic acid (nee hydrochloric acid HCl ) as there is something about the hydrogen weakening the cast iron.  A little research should turn up the reference, I can't remember where I read it just now.
Stan

[rcavictim]

I"d be carefull with muriatic acid (nee hydrochloric acid HCl ) as there is something about the hydrogen weakening the cast iron.  A little research should turn up the reference, I can't remember where I read it just now.
Stan

I did it to clean out my JangDong 175 after running a few hours with mineral water in the hopper from my well at the changeover point when I went to a closed loop, pressurized thermosiphon system with antifreeze solution.  That was about 100 hours ago.  No problems yet.

[mobile_bob]

muriatic acid will not hurt the engine, it isn't going to be in there that long
as mentioned a followup of baking soda and water to neutralized, followed by another couple of flushes will
set the engine right. you can even add a bit of dawn dishsoap to reduce the surface tension of the water
and it will wash up the rest quite nicely,
rinse and repeat

bob g

[Stan]

I finally found the electrolysis link I've been looking for.
Stan

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp