Tips for installing a glow plug

[listeroidsusa1]

Just a note of caution....... If you buy an off-the-shelf glow plug make sure it is a slow glow type as usually found in a tractor. The automotive plugs are, for the most part, fast glow plugs and will burn out almost instantly if left connected to 12 volts over 10-15 seconds.

Another excellent way to start these engines is to get a "flame start" plug from your local Massey-Ferguson dealer. It has a spiral glow element plus a spray bar for fuel if you wanted to hook it up. Mine is from a Massey 65 tractor and cost less than $15. It screws into a 7/8-14 threaded hole in the intake.

Mike

[Stan]

OK, I've finally found my head diagram.gif from my manual.

On this diagram, if you remove the COV valve and replace it with a plug, then you'd have to have a plug machined to fit the back end of the expansion chamber precisely.  If you wanted to fit a glow plug into this replacement plug, it would have to be an awfully long plug.  That said, I'm not familiar with glow plugs, maybe they are that long.  Also if that "inner sleeve" (part #148, see walktall's great new plate #4 page 37 Cylinder Head diagram, found in Lister CS Plates under Original Lister CS Engines) comes out easily and is replaced by the plug, then it's a different kettle of fish.

So if part #148 comes out and is replaced with a solid plug, then you are in high compression load and shouldn't be operating at more than 1/3 power for a sustained period of time, if you have a Dursley Lister.  If part #147 is all that is replaced, you will be operating in low compression mode.

Maybe someone could post a picture of a COV plug so the rest of us can understand what's going on?
Stan

[Quinnf]

In the last few lines on the relevant webpage, George makes it clear http://www.utterpower.com/glow_plug.htmthat the COV plug with glow plug is for non-COV heads only.  So if you're thinking of going that route, you might want to order a new head, which wouldn't be a bad thing to have as a spare.


Quinn

[Stan]

Tnx Quinn....Do you know how the "Non-COV" heads differ in internal construction from "COV" Indian heads?  I would be surprised if the Indians designed a new head just so they could call in a non-cov head.
Stan

[Quinnf]

I think it's more likely they just increased the bump clearance to lower the compression.  Lots simpler than redesigning the head.  That's a complicated part to cast.  Not knowing what the Dursley spec is, I can only guess that's what they did.

And Chris, yes, George is still around and selling parts.   You might want to e-mail him at george(at)utterpower.com.

Don't know if he has them in stock, but a lot of folks have them now.

Quinn

[Tom]

Or even more likely, they increased the releaf area in the COV plug to reduce compression. However IIRC people that have replaced the plug on Indian heads have reported that the compression was to low with the COV in the out position, so perhaps they did increase the bump clearance.

[Quinnf]

That might be, too.  Without two heads to compare, it's hard to know.

However, consider this:  The Lister 8/1 was the first Lister engine to lose the COV and substitute the plug, according to David Edgington's book.  He wrote that the compression ratio was 19:1 with the COV in START position, and something like 15.7:1 in RUN position.  The plug, he wrote, set the compression at 17.5:1 for both START and RUN conditions.  So maybe in an original CS head, the loss of the "run" part of the head prechamber volume brings the compression ratio to about 17.5:1.  And then no mucking with squish clearance is necessary.   

Quinn

[mkdutchman]

FWIW, here's how my glowplug COV assembly looks



Works very well, temperature was less than 15F this morning, and she started on the first compression stroke.........

One thing, if you get plugs make sure you get the double coil ones, they're supposed to be made to be on continuously, and won't burn out if you accidentally leave it connected to your power source all night (don't ask me how I know  )

I got a couple of extra ones made right away too

[cschuerm]

Thanks for the helpful replies!
Guess I'll just do a little shopping to see what glow plugs I can find locally then whittle out a plug to replace my COV valve.  I'm sure it'll be interesting to try to match whatever threads hold the COV in :-)

chris

[M61hops]

I bought a couple of extra COV hole plugs from Lobstermang in Maine, he sells Listeroids on ebay.  I recall they were fairly cheap maybe $7 or $8; so cheap it wasn't worth me trying to make one.  Can somebody tell me a part # of a suitable glow plug to fit into the COV plug?  At some time in the future I want to fit a spark plug into a COV hole plug to try and make a 6/1 listeroid into a gasoline/propane motor just for fun; and maybe to try woodgas!  Thanks for any sugustions on glow plug part numbers!                       Leland

[mkdutchman]

M61,
I bought my plugs off ebay, they were fairly cheap as I recall. Made by Wap Inc, part number G138

Here's a listing on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=230311712935&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=013

[Oiler]

Try Stationary engine parts, he is a very nice man to deal with.

http://www.stationaryengineparts.com

Torsten

[oliver90owner]

Try Stationary engine parts, he is a very nice man to deal with.

Depends somewhat on where you reside.  They are probably the wrong side of the pond for quite a lot of posters but very useful for Europe.

Regards, RAB

[M61hops]

Thanks mkduchman, those look good!  Do they seal at the step with a copper washer?  That's how I'd like do it, not ever having held a glow plug in my hand yet >    Leland

[mkdutchman]

Thanks mkduchman, those look good!  Do they seal at the step with a copper washer?  That's how I'd like do it, not ever having held a glow plug in my hand yet >    Leland

The COV plugs seal with a coppe washer at the step of course, but the glow plug didn't have anything but a taper. Here's what that looks like