Tips for installing a glow plug

[Stan]

I had assumed (there's that word again ) that when you take out the compression valve the compression got lower, just like when you screw out the wheel.  So does the glow plug go right "through" the outer chamber and seal against the inner chamber?
Stan

[Flyingpony]

If I understand this interesting thread right, all I have to do is purchase ANY off the shelf glow plug (Toyota/Isuzu/Nissan) and screw this into the air intake pipe and as they say, bob's your uncle?

If this is how it works, then I can stop using Ezy-Start spray when it's cold.


Also, how does one wire up a glow plug to 12volt DC batteries?

How many glow plugs would I need for my 600rpm 3hp diesel Lister?


Re: Using Ezy-Start, somebody posted on here that using this was a bad idea but didn't explain why - I know if too much is used she'll make some expensive sounding pre-ignition bangs, but what are the other risks?

Thanks.

[rmchambers]

The whole idea behind glow plugs is to warm up the combustion air beyond that which compression alone allows when everything else is cold soaked.

The intake air is cold coming in, the piston and head and cylinder are cold so any heat generated by the compression of this air will tend to wick away into the colder metal parts of the engine - without a critical mass to to speak the injected fuel won't ignite.

The glow plug stacks the deck in the engines favor a little bit.  If the glow plug is on for 15 seconds the air in the surrounding area of it is going to get pretty warm, then when it is compressed it's already starting from warm and becomes hot and you get ignition.

warming the intake air (with a glow plug) does the same thing, gives the compressed air a head start on being hot enough to ignite the fuel.

Once the engine starts the heat from the combustion warms the engine and then it's no problem.

I'd think one plug per intake if there are more than one, the air trapped in the intake gets sucked in and hopefully the first ignition gets going enough to continue running.

I'm not convinced of the evils of starting ether but from what I've read the thought is that it causes detonation rather than normal combustion and that, same as in a gasoline/petrol engine is never a good thing.

Robert

[mactoollover2005]

 I have been using either for the last 30 yrs and would like to think that i have my head screwed on straight and thats all because of a old friend. He taught me to use it VERY CAREFULLY AND SPARINGLY.Better to start off with small amounts and go up if required. i have seen some beautifully blown up engines, all because the person was lazy or in a rush to get the engine going, well they did and its a real sight to see pistons, connecting rods flying all over the place and its really neat to see and feel chunks of a head fly by you. Your life has a tendency to flash past you in a hurry.
 If u want to use either then go for it BUT make sure there is no glow plug system on the eng or its disconnected first and then use the go go juice sparingly.
 Derek

[rpg52]

In a thread some time ago, some forum member stated that ether reduced the ignition point of diesel so it would fire when cold.  Without diesel, or used to excess it detonates, causing lots of problems.  Made sense to me, my Detroit Diesel won't fire below ~70 degrees.  I crank it until I see white smoke of unburned diesel, give it a little squirt and it usually starts to fire.  Don't have enough experience with the Listeroid yet.
Ray

[Tom]

I used one of the tricks I learned here on this board a few weeks ago to start my Case diesel backhoe when it was in the 20's. Even trying to start with a jump from the Scout would not do it. So I removed the dust filter from the intake and fired up a small propane brush burner and placed in the intake while cranking and it started right up. No either needed.

[Stan]

It shouldn't be too hard to rig up a small propane torch on a stand to heat up the inside of the intake "manifold".  No complex electical requirements, and you could even  use it every so often just cracked open a little and left unlit to cut down on the carbon build up from UVO.
Stan

[fireram]

Why not try a hair dryer, or something the like...  Cummins has been using grid heaters in the air intake for years, I have started mine in -30f without having it plugged in, blew some smoke for a while and sounded like it was going to puke, but it started and eventually fired on all 6 but was very rough at first..

One of the grid heaters from a cummins, on a 12 volt relay with a 15 second timer or if you want to get fancy, on a temp probe in th exhaust or water jacket, it would cycle on whenever it was cold, and prevent any smoke, or a least cut it back at startup..

[rcavictim]

..... and left unlit to cut down on the carbon build up from UVO.
Stan

Stan, as my own contribution towards further distraction and confusion brought about through the use of non standard acronyms might I suggest burning UFO as well?    

[rcavictim]

In the 1980 and earlier VW diesel engines found in the Rabbits you could remove the plastic cover and air filter element from the cast aluminum air dam/manifold and place a diesel soaked rag in it and set it on fire to make heat to start the engine. Worked well in Canada`s c-c-cold arctic winters.  Pitty VW `improved` the design to an all plastic and meltable air box in the early 80`s.

[Stan]

Slip of the vinger
Stan

[BruceM]

Stan- the "CS plug" in the 'oids leaves you in high compression mode, as Jack said.  You can set this to whatever compression ratio you want via cylinder shims. The bored out plug from Utterpower puts the tip of the glow plug right in the center of the precombustion chamber.  This becomes essentially a hot tube ignition system (creating a hot surface for ignition to start at) and is very effective with only a few seconds of on time.  It's not the same as just heating air at the intake, I think.

I went to less than the minimum spec for head clearance on my Metro to compensate for my 5600 ft operating elevation but on my next tear down will try it back at say 0.055" and see how she runs there.  Some folks have reported better performance at the lower compression range. (More load with no smoke.) Slow speed is a different animal.

I do envy your original Lister, Stan! I'd love to restore one of those beauties.

Best Wishes,
Bruce

[Stan]

Tnx Bruce...that makes it clearer.  I'm sitting here at -19deg C (-2deg F.) thinking it would be mighty hard getting Penelope started out there if the lights went out without something to make it easier.  After reading a LOT of posts on SmokStak about the dangers of using starting fluid, I'm not about to do that to her.  I do like the idea of heating up the intake air with a small propane torch though.  It seems a lot less invasive.  Have to lose the air filter first, not that she ever had one at any time in her life 
Stan

[DREW]

hi all
i found this on rocky mountain power.
he is probably a much more reliable source for these parts. i am not affiliated with any suppliers.
               http://www.rockymountainpowersource.com/Photos/Glow-Plug.jpg

                                                                                           drew                                               

[cschuerm]

Having failed several times today to get my 24/2 started in sub freezing temperatures, I have been reading up on the glowplug thread.  Went to the utterpower web site for the first time in ages and it seems to be rather stagnate.  Is George still around?  Couldn't find any reference to glow plug stuff there....
I did score a pair of plugs some time back to replace the CO valves.  If anyone has any pictures or descriptions of how you've installed glow plugs, I'd sure appreciate additional information.

Thanks !
Chris