Possible Cracked Head

[Rod]

            I think I've got a cracked head, I mean I know I do, but I think my Listeroid does also. I'm going to get some pictures now. I've yet to master "Coppermine", so if anyone would be kind enough to offer opinion I'll e-mail the pictures to you for a look. Last night the power went off so we had our first need to run the engine. I've been running it as I built the set-up with no problems with the exception of black water (very little) running down one exhaust header. I figured it was the head gasket, due to not changing it after inspection. Last night was the longest run, I have two thermometers on it, water out and water back in. The idea being to prove the cooling system adequate, and it was. So this morning I decided to change the head gasket, I ordered extras with the engine, only to find a crack. The wife says she saw it during the inspection and that I said it was a scratch.
           I was a line mechanic in two new car dealerships, a total of 5 years. In my opinion this should be warranty, if it's a crack. By the way, there's no carbon around the "scratch"           HELP  Rod

[mobile_bob]

lets have a look,,

send the picture to my email, and i will take a look

notblueeyes@notblueeyes
bob g 

[craig c]

Hi, if you e-mail pic i will have a look had over 20 years rebuilding engines and crack testing heads, thanks craig
polaris500@xtra.co.nz

[Rod]

Bob,  That e-mail doesn't work for me - Rod

[mobile_bob]

it is my fault
it was early and my fingers were on autopilot

the correct addy is notblueeyes (at) hotmail.com

bob g

[Rod]

Bob,  Pictures are on the way.
                                            Rod

[fireram]

As for the photos, try http://photobucket.com/

Put the photos you want to upload in a folder on your desktop, to be easy.

open the web page, creat an account, its free, then when you sign in, you just browse for the image on your computer from the web page, then select more if nessasary, then press upload.  Then post a link to your photo album in the post here.

[mobile_bob]

Rod:

without closer inspection i would think all the marks are from rough handling, etc.
the cracks look like scratches and the dent is just rough handling.
as for the loose stuff(flashing), just chip it out and grind it smooth if you like

if you are worried about a crack, have it magnafluxed.
but i don't think you have a problem

bob g

[Rod]

     Having it magnafluxed is just what I've been thinking. I  don't want to make too much noise and end up wrongly making bad press for the manufacturer. Right now the pole is 50 - 50 Bob and Craig think scratches. An engineer form Maine Maritime who held it in his hands and my brother in N.Y. think crack. At this point I can only wait for proof.  Thank you for the input, I will post the results.  Rod

[craig c]

Rod  , I can 100% guarantee in is not a crack , but i would get the  head faced , I  have crack tested 1000 of heads, as a  automotive machinist i have seen a few cracks over the last 20 odd years. craig c

[Rod]

     Bob & Craig:    Looks like you guys were right, the head has no cracks but did need to be surfaced, the shop I used does mostly industrial engines & in his opinion the head should have never been used in that condition. What's worse is that what I thought was black water running down the header pipe was oil. The real problem was "wet-stacking". I hate to have to admit how badly I mis-diagnosed the problem, but by doing so maybe someone else will gain some insight. After the origional tear-down, cleanout, regrind of lifters, etc. it ran very well. That right cyl. ran a little cool so I adj. the governor linkage to get equal temp. in the headers and called it good. Never assume it's ok. I learned that years ago when I worked in a new car dealership. The service manager told me to break down that word. Check it out, ass-u-me!! Now I'll do it right, piston to head clearence, pump timing, pump rack adj. with a dial  ind. and a visual on the injector spray pattern. That last one is a little crude but better than doing nothing. Any other ideas?
     Thanks for the input    Rod

[Rod]

    For futher story see post at "Engine brand roundup"  Rod

[rocketboy]

The common and incorrectly diagnosed condition of oil slobbering can be caused by over filling the cylinder head with oil. It will drip black oil and fill the muffler, smoke like crazy during start-up etc until the excess oil leaks out, then mysteriously the slobbering stops. Some think the fix was ring break-in etc., while all along all it was over-filling.

Been there done that...twice.


Good luck with your project!

RB

[dkwflight]

Hi I don't think I agree with the over filling idea. Since my engine has broken in I have over filled the valve reservoirs and shutdown the engine. On restart several days later the engine will smoke heavily of course but I haven't seen much "Slobber.
When I first started the engine it definately slobbered until I got the engine loaded up and got it partly broken in. The oil was passing the rings for sure.
Dennis

[GeckoPower]

I have approximatly 550 hrs on my GTC 6/1 gaining about 14 to 16 hrs daily.  That engine still slobbers black gunge from the threads at the exhaust manifold, a seam in a brand new ag tractor muffler, and the original muffler it came from (tailpipe).  There is a black puddle in the snow and spittle on anything else in the immediate vicinity.  Now I check the oil daily, and it doesn't go down much at all.  My coolant is mysteriously dissapearing.  I am not sure if the engine would have porosity in the casting of the head (have not yet pulled and inspected cause it is depended upon daily) Between cylinder and water jacket? or head gasket?  I add about a cup or cup and a have (didn't measure) about every 2 to 3 days.  One other question I have is, How much oil does one put in the crank case?  Up to the little slide filler hole? or does anybody pull the inspection cover off and see how much is in there and fill to according to what they think it should have in there?  My parts list book doesn't tell me the specs.  BTW there were no lines on the dipstick so what is safe? 1/4, 1/2" up?  My dipstick (when screwed in tightly) is about an index finger width above the bottom of the oil lake in the case. Now where this "lake" dribbles into the sump how wide should the oil fall be?  Also how in the world does any foriegn particles large or small fall into this sump when the dipper slings oil away from the sump?  I could be missing something or lots of things, need to be filled in.
Thanks,