Author Topic: Painting the inside of a lister  (Read 7149 times)

outagas

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Painting the inside of a lister
« on: January 16, 2007, 11:12:52 PM »
I am almost ready to paint,
What is the concensous on painting the inside of the engine?  Epoxy, Glptal 1201?  Anyone familar with costs of these products or how much is needed to paint the inside of an engine?



DREW

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Re: Painting the inside of a lister
« Reply #1 on: January 17, 2007, 12:23:57 AM »
hi outagas
i took doug's advice to paint the inside with gliptal. i havent painted yet but i purchased from eastwood on sale for 34.99 qt.
drew
changfa 195 7kw, ashwamegh 6/1 5kw

Doug

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Re: Painting the inside of a lister
« Reply #2 on: January 18, 2007, 10:18:05 PM »
You have more than you need with a quart.....

I sugest you look at the 1201A some stuff basicaly but in a spray can about 15-20 bucks a can ( Obviously a thinner product that will need two coats ). The brush on stuff is nice because you can thin it with Xylene ( as we often did ) and paint on a thin coat that soaks in well and a thicker coat later. If you can, baking a casting to 200- 250F for 1-2 hour will improve the hardness of the finnish and you can assemble it when cool with no worries about oil desolving the paint.

Doug

Joe

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Re: Painting the inside of a lister
« Reply #3 on: January 19, 2007, 09:47:01 PM »
I got four cans from this guy...two for ST head and two for the 6/1...he only charged shipping for one can...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Glyptal-1201A-12-oz-aerosol_W0QQitemZ230024976080QQihZ013QQcategoryZ1267QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem


Joe
Nothing is easy...if it were...anybody could do it.

2005 Power Solutions  6/1-ST5

Doug

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Re: Painting the inside of a lister
« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2007, 12:12:26 AM »
That's a good price....

Some military surplus places have old lots of the stuff. I guess the US Army has this stock coded....

There are other versions of basical the same thing. I used the westinghouse version its was just a little darker in colour. Old stock ( like 5-10 years old ) should be avoided I noticed sometimes the old stuff come out the nozle like cottage cheeze and won't penetrate. If you buy a copy cat product make sure it has a name like westinghouse or the green stuff like ABB sells ect ect ect....

I never seen a can with a lable like that. I assume this is because you have the American version. In Canada the can is rather plane looking like this

http://www.glyptal.com/1201tech001.pdf

Joe

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Re: Painting the inside of a lister
« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2007, 12:40:48 AM »
It is older stock…that’s probably why the low price…I’ve not tried it yet but if it does clog then I’ll pop open the cans and put it in a spray gun….

Edit: The cans I have are dated MFD 2/95 and do have what looks like a Government stock number on them...


While at the starter/alternator/motor repair shop picking up an item for a neighbors tractor I quizzed the guy behind the counter about bringing in some of the ST head components to get “professionally” dipped/baked/sealed that I assumed a “professional” electric motor place like that would do …he looked at me funny and showed me a can of spray paint…that was the extent of what they did…
I can spray paint myself… thank you…. :)

Joe
« Last Edit: January 20, 2007, 12:46:10 AM by Joe »
Nothing is easy...if it were...anybody could do it.

2005 Power Solutions  6/1-ST5

Doug

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Re: Painting the inside of a lister
« Reply #6 on: January 20, 2007, 01:50:23 AM »
For general services most shops will just blow a coat of electrical finnish on a winding unless you specifficaly ask for a hot dip.

If lets say you have large pumps like what town water works uses to lift watse water these will generaly get a hot dip if they've been flooded and are in for a clean up and service. Windings that have been soaked get a bake an oven to dry and often the escaping steam will do some damage that only a good dip and bake will correct. AN old weathered machine thats been sitting and has moister issues might be ok with just a dry in the oven and a spray of electrical finnish it all depends.

The bennifit of taking a new ST head and dipping it depends on how well it was varnished in the first place. The whole point of varnish is to seal the winding from dirt and moister and prevent the wiring from wigging in the slots. If you have something like an ST head that you can clearly spread the turn of a coil with you thumb nail. I would sugest you ask a shop to warm it up in the oven and do a dip and bake. The heat helps draw the varnish deep into the coils, the bake even with a spray/brush on air dry product help toughen the finnish.

If you have a good winding in your head, and it obviously well bonded together with varnish then just a spary of electrical finnish is all you realy need to cover up and seal it in the event that something was scuffed or damaged inthe assembly/disaaembly of the head.

It might be the shop you were at was not an actual winding shop,some places now mostly sell motors and pumps. If they get a big job that needs a winding they may farm it out or use an epoxy resin instead of the traditional tank of varnish and oven. Ive used the epoxy too, its basical the same as the stuff for fixing fiber glass boats.

Finding people who actualy wind motors these days is rare. Its labour intensive and hard to compete with new motors made on machines or off shore by Chinese.

If you can get a hot dip and its bothering you this will work fairly well....

Get the winding as clean as possible with an industrial degreaser like Perc. Air dry it out good for a few days in a warn low humidity room. Moisten the winding with Xylene and spary on several light coats of electrical finnish. Cover with a sheet poly film to keep the solvents from drying too quickly so they have time to work and penetrate the windings for 2-4 hours. Uncover and spary several more light coats waiting for the finnish to tack nice and you'll be a certan as you can you have good penetration and coverage of the winding.

WARNING:
Perc and Xylene are solvents that can cause brain damage, ruin your liver, cause cancer. They penetrate skin and should only be used in with gloves and a organic filter cartrage resperator.

I used a lot this stuff and my health suffered. One of the reasons, I left trade my doctor said it was killing me.

Doug

Stan

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Re: Painting the inside of a lister
« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2007, 02:35:04 AM »
And they dissolve latex gloves!!!  We used to use xylene to take felt pen obscenities of school desks until the unions shut us down.  (for our health sakes   :-\ )
Stan

snail

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Re: Painting the inside of a lister
« Reply #8 on: January 22, 2007, 12:16:37 AM »
Can anyone tell me if glyptal is available in Australia?

A quick web search didn't turn up much.Anyone got any experience?

Cheers,

Brian

okiezeke

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Re: Painting the inside of a lister
« Reply #9 on: January 22, 2007, 01:47:09 AM »
Call me crazy, but...

I admit to limited experience with engines, and great ignorance of listeriods.

I've been over every square mm of the inside of the block with a carbide stone and a wire wheel.

I've washed the inside of the block with WD40 until the white cloth remained white.

Every part of the re-assembly will be really well cleaned and rinsed until spotless.

I'm not going to paint the inside of the block.

Guess I just dont trust any paint to stay put in such an environment.

Zeke
Changfa type 25hp with 15kw ST head
Lovson 20-2 in blueprinting/rebuild
International TD-15 B  1962 dozer
Changfa 8 hp., 280 A battery charger

Doug

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Re: Painting the inside of a lister
« Reply #10 on: January 24, 2007, 12:04:32 AM »
Snail:

Make some phone calls to the local electrical retailers, supliers and mtor transformer repair places. If you can't get Glyptal there must be a simmilar product made in Auz....

Doug

captfred

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Re: Painting the inside of a lister
« Reply #11 on: January 24, 2007, 11:31:16 AM »
I'm with Zeke, my knowledge of listeroids is very limited, but I do have a fair amount of experience with gas/petrol and diesel engines - volvo md2b up to mtu 16v396. 

So, why is it necessary to paint the inside of an engine? :)

Doug

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Re: Painting the inside of a lister
« Reply #12 on: January 24, 2007, 11:01:45 PM »
To seal in the crud...

No one said you have too, but if you missed something in clean up you stand a better chance of keeping in place and out of harms way.
A nice clean smooth interior surface is nice come inspection time, you can see it clean and feel things that might not feel on a rough plane cast surface.