OK... How do you change a sleeve?

[Reno Speedster]

As some of you know, I had a problem with my Ashwemagh 6/1 which required a new sleeve.  Since I bought it from George (who is a stand up guy) I got a new sleeve and ring set for the cost of shipping but now I have to change the sleeve.  Has anyone had to do this yet?  Can I do it or is it best left to the machine shop?  I know some sleeves are pressed in or even pressed in with the housing hot. 


Morgan

[hotater]

Morgan--

I haven't done it,   but I think mine is threaded.....either that or the coarsest turning I've ever seen!       Strap wrench on the hangy-down part, maybe?  Its' thin enough to warp unless the force is evenly distributed radially and inward.
  A 'collet' of two 2x8s bolted edgewise and a hole cut for the liner between them, maybe?

A swelling cam wrench would lock the threads to the head...no way that'd work.....hmmm.....warm the head and pack the liner in dry ice??  It might *fall* out that way!   

[quinnf]

Reno, this ain't one of those that's pressed in.  I think it's just floating on o-rings.  My Ashwamegh, #204,, which is the same manufacturer and vintage as Reno's, seems to be held in just by the friction of the o-rings.  When I place the cylinder down on a solid surface, eg. my tablesaw, the top edge of the liner protrudes proud of the top of the cylinder casting, and I can bounce it up and down, so I think it's just a slip fit.  I read somewhere to use soap to lube the o-rings when replacing a sleeve, indicating there's no mechanical connectioin between the sleeve and casting.  I expect there's probably a ledge machined in the cylinder casting that corresponds to one on the sleeve to stop the sleeve from travelling too far downward.

So, to answer your question, I think you just press it out from bottom to top.  I bet you could just cobble up some 2x4 spacers on the groj floor turn the cylinder upside down and just stand on the sleeve skirt.  Mine seems very loose.

Quinn

[Reno Speedster]

Thanks Quinn, I'll try that.  By the way our engines are brothers, mine is # 203!  I spent the day putting the Iron into the engine shed forms, getting ready to pour the substantial slab, and opening up the water outlets in the head an the cylinder.  The one in the head is a bit off center and even when opened up to the diamiter of the gasket the thermostat won't fit right.  I think I will make a spacer plate to hold the thermostat and provide the needed clearence.  Tomarrow I'm going to pull the rod and the valve lifters and get the head fully stripped to check the valves.

Morgan

[quinnf]

Small world, Morgan, #203 and #204!

Yes, I had to hog out the lower inlet hole, too, and had a lot of fun with a rat-tail file, die grinder and saber saw getting the head to accept the business end of the thermostat.  I was toying with the idea of getting a piece of 1/2" steel and machining a spacer but managed to get it to fit.  The outlet hole is  off center because there's a bulge in the casting for a stud right next door.  I turned the water outlet on a lathe to get the relief cuts for the t-stat flange, so that was no problem.  Funny the choices of metal they use in these machines.  The water outlet was cast iron but machined beautifully.  The actual water outlet was the thinnest metal I've ever seen that was threaded, and it was welded tubing.  No thank you!  The piston wrist pin was also apparently a casting that was machined and then chrome plated, but never cleaned of casting sand!  Is a puzzlement!

When you pull the rod bearing cap, note the marks on the side so you can reassemble it the same way, and if you're going to remove the dipper from the lower bearing cap note now many turns you need to go to remove it, too.

Good luck,

Quinn