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Author Topic: Starting RPM for crankover plus bonus DC-DC question puzzle  (Read 13690 times)

jtodd

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Starting RPM for crankover plus bonus DC-DC question puzzle
« on: November 23, 2006, 12:18:08 AM »

I'm building an electric starter for my 12/2 Listeroid.  Part of the challenge for the starter sub-system is finding the appropriate motive force to get the engine turned over.  As mentioned in another thread (http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=805.0) I almost had a solution with an aircraft starter/generator, but it's the wrong rotation and design constraints keep me from simply rotating the SG around to face the other way.  Thus, I'm looking to see what other motors I could use as a starter/generator, but I need a few details to actually discover how to make things work. Notably, I need to find out:

  - what is the minimal RPM the flywheel needs to spin on a "typical" 12/2 style engine before compression engagement? (i.e.: "How fast do you crank it before it starts?") This will tell me what kind of engine I need, and/or what size pulley.  My engine is currently in the core of a very large welding project for construction of the chassis, and I can't start it up right now to experiment for myself.

  - how many "horsepower" is the average arm that is cranking the engine?  This will tell me what size, roughly, of an engine I need after I learn how to do the calculations on rotational torque.  I don't need to be exact here, but a ballpark is fine and I haven't the slightest clue how to determine this.


Lastly, an electrical question for the idle electro-mechanical engineers out there:  I've found treadmill motors that run on 130vdc that have 2hp of power at 25amps, have a 100% duty cycle, and seem like good candidates for such a starter/generator.  However, they run on 130vdc.  I have 24vdc @900 amps or 12v @1800 amps (yes, you read that correctly) for starting - two Optima 900 amp D31T cells in parallel or series.  Is there any easy way to convert to 130vdc at a lower amperage and go vice-versa for charging?  I've never seen a device that does this at these voltages/amperages.

JT


hotater

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Re: Starting RPM for crankover plus bonus DC-DC question puzzle
« Reply #1 on: November 23, 2006, 12:51:50 AM »
One revolution per second is all I can manage!  60 rpm and one horse('s ass) power.   :o
7200 hrs on 6-1/5Kw, FuKing Listeroid,
Currently running PS-Kit 6-1/5Kw...and some MPs and Chanfas and diesel snowplows and trucks and stuff.

biobill

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Re: Starting RPM for crankover plus bonus DC-DC question puzzle
« Reply #2 on: November 23, 2006, 03:19:53 AM »
  Hi  Jtodd

    Seems to me like the treadmill motor is way overkill, these things just aren't that hard to start. Anything that will put a bit of torque to those flywheels and get them up to 50-60rpm's in what...... 5 seconds or so will do the job. People start them with electric drills - direct drive! I think the starter/generators like you used to find on the old Kohler engines would be just the ticket. Plenty strong enough (no compression release on the Kohlers) and everything is there to charge your battery. No dickin around.


   as for the bonus question: I'm not a E/M engineer however I do have a very high opinion of my opinions.

   Are you out of your mind??? (just kidding)
      Well, you could invert the DC to AC lets say 110v which , if rectified back to DC might be close enough. But if not then you could transform it up to 130v and rectify it.  Or, you could do it mechanically with the appropriate voltage DC drive motor driving your one of a kind 130v DC generator.  Or, you could get the whole treadmill, say "screw the batteries", and just plug it in.

  Theres got to be an easier way. Plenty of stuff out there that works fine on 12v or 24v.

                                     Good Luck, Bill
Off grid since 1990
6/1 Metro DI living in basement, cogen
6/1 Metro IDI running barn & biodiesel processer
VW 1.6 diesels all over the place
Isuzu Boxtruck, Ford Backhoe, all running on biodiesel
Needs diesel lawnmower & chainsaw

jtodd

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Re: Starting RPM for crankover plus bonus DC-DC question puzzle
« Reply #3 on: November 23, 2006, 03:47:40 AM »
  Hi  Jtodd

    Seems to me like the treadmill motor is way overkill, these things just aren't that hard to start. Anything that will put a bit of torque to those flywheels and get them up to 50-60rpm's in what...... 5 seconds or so will do the job. People start them with electric drills - direct drive! I think the starter/generators like you used to find on the old Kohler engines would be just the ticket. Plenty strong enough (no compression release on the Kohlers) and everything is there to charge your battery. No dickin around.

Tried it.  Got one of the starter motors for golf carts, brand new.  Hooked it to a 150 amp battery, and let it get the flywheels up to whatever meagre speed it could manage.  Then flicked one of the compression releases and it bounced as soon as it hit the compression cycle on that cyl.  This was with a ~3" pulley on the starter motor; pretty much as small as I could find.   Maybe I need a bigger pulley, but it was really anemic and didn't give me a lot of faith that it would be able to do the trick no matter what pulley I put on it.  I could just be pessmistic...

Now, if you have a part number for the Kohler S/G that is supposed to start a diesel without compression release, that would be great.  I've seen lots of starters with gear drives, but they aren't starter/generators meant for constantly engaged belt drive.   All of them look also like they're 15 amps @12VDC, which doesn't seem to me that it would be enough to do the trick especially with compression releases closed. 

I've been looking also at wheelchair motors, but again I'm not sure how they'd hold up as generators after they started up the engine.

Tom

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Re: Starting RPM for crankover plus bonus DC-DC question puzzle
« Reply #4 on: November 23, 2006, 04:15:34 AM »
My '62 Bolens Huskey 800 has a Delco starter/generator on it that will spin a 7.25hp Wisconsin engine with no problem. The starter has a 2" type A industrial pulley on it. You might check here for one http://www.mfgsupply.com/SmEngStarterCC.html they have them cw & ccw rotation. You will a voltage regulator and heavy duty starter switch. Seems they will only put out 15 amps.   
Tom
2004 Ashwamegh 6/1 #217 - ST5 just over 3k hours.

Jim Mc

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Re: Starting RPM for crankover plus bonus DC-DC question puzzle
« Reply #5 on: November 23, 2006, 04:21:51 AM »
...Is there any easy way to convert to 130vdc at a lower amperage and go vice-versa for charging? 

The answer to the bonus question is: No.  It's possible, but not easy.

As for the HP required, calculate it!  Assume about 60 rpm, multiply by the breaking torque, which you have to measure with a ruler and scale (be creative now...) and divide by 5252 and you get HP.  Add in some extra for 'cold weather' and you're getting close...




buickanddeere

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Re: Starting RPM for crankover plus bonus DC-DC question puzzle
« Reply #6 on: November 23, 2006, 05:12:58 AM »
"Hooked it to a 150 amp battery". There's the problem, a 300-400amp battery that can supply both the current and voltage required.
 Those starter/generators vary in size. Likely the higher the charging current, the greater the starting power.
 There are 22Amp units on fleabay.
 Even a 15amp starter generator should be able to whip a  de-compressed 12/2 faster than an average man by hand?   
 A 7 to 1 ratio on the pulleys would be close with a 1000rpm Listeroid.

biobill

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Re: Starting RPM for crankover plus bonus DC-DC question puzzle
« Reply #7 on: November 23, 2006, 05:24:03 AM »
  Tom found them. I think 15A is the output as a generator. Is that enough for what you have in mind? I'm sure they draw much more than that as a motor. A two stroke, like I assume the golfcart was, are much easier to spin than a fourstroke so I would expect the starter to be significantly weaker. I am surprised though, that with all that flywheel it bounced back. Must have been going really slow.  I had a 10hp in the old Bolens. When it had been sufficiently neglected I would have to pop the belt off and wrap a rope around the pulley to start it. It was a real bear to pull.
  It would be nice if you could get a look at a complete installation in an old tractor. It was many beers ago but I think there was something different with the solenoid, like it switched more than one wire to go from starter to generator but I could be wrong.

  It just occured to me that the twins have smaller flywheels than the singles and I have never been around one so take everything  I've said with a grain of salt. Still think it'll work fine though

                                                     Bill
Off grid since 1990
6/1 Metro DI living in basement, cogen
6/1 Metro IDI running barn & biodiesel processer
VW 1.6 diesels all over the place
Isuzu Boxtruck, Ford Backhoe, all running on biodiesel
Needs diesel lawnmower & chainsaw

Procrustes

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Re: Starting RPM for crankover plus bonus DC-DC question puzzle
« Reply #8 on: November 23, 2006, 07:58:57 PM »
Some other approaches: user BruceM set up an air tank which runs a Gast air motor which turns a rubber wheel which spins up the flywheel.  He used a foot pedal to engage/disengage the rubber wheel.  Eric at rockymountainpowersource.com has a prototype for an electric motor which turns a rubber wheel which spins up the flywheel.  It auto-disengages, I believe somehow with centripetal force.  Mike Montieth at listeroids.com was cutting ring gears and mounting them onto flywheel for use with automotive starters, but his supplier now does this for him.  A few electric motors, such as those on the genuine start-o-matics, double as starters.

mobile_bob

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Re: Starting RPM for crankover plus bonus DC-DC question puzzle
« Reply #9 on: November 23, 2006, 08:08:44 PM »
another option is the lowly smog pump, such as those used on 70's up GM products

if you plumb in air pressure into the smog pumps outlet port, it will spin up to 3000 rpm, and will develop over 3 hp with 150psi, albeit it likes alot of air.

i have no doubt one of those would bust off a lister without a comp release, they develop serious torque when loaded down

bob g
otherpower.com, microcogen.info, practicalmachinist.com
(useful forums), utterpower.com for all sorts of diy info

John Bartley

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Re: Starting RPM for crankover plus bonus DC-DC question puzzle
« Reply #10 on: November 24, 2006, 02:05:30 AM »
  Tom found them. I think 15A is the output as a generator. Is that enough for what you have in mind? I'm sure they draw much more than that as a motor.

This is correct - the charge rate would be 15 amps and the regulator you choose would have to match the starter/generator size.

Quote
It would be nice if you could get a look at a complete installation in an old tractor. It was many beers ago but I think there was something different with the solenoid, like it switched more than one wire to go from starter to generator but I could be wrong.

The starter/generator solenoids do the very same thing as ordinary starter solenoids. Once the diesel motor starts, then the regulator determines how much of the excess output voltage goers to the battery. The regulator does the switching.
On the old gas lawn and garden motors, the compression ratios are much lower at about 7 or 8 to one. The starter/generator units do their charging at over 7500rpm, so with a motor running at 3600 rpm, the pulley ratio is 2:1 or greater.
Figure then that at 650 rpm diesel to 7500 rpm generator, you have better then 10:1, so there shouldn't be any trouble starting the unit.

cheers

Tom

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Re: Starting RPM for crankover plus bonus DC-DC question puzzle
« Reply #11 on: November 24, 2006, 02:58:24 AM »
Also they use a bushing in the tail end that has given me fits on mine. The ratio on mine is about 5:1. They also place a lot of drag on the engine for the amount of power they produce. I would not run one full time as I'm after efficiency on my system. The starter motor would probably work great with a rubber wheel pressed up against the flywheel for starting. I could see a pedal that one steps on that pushes the starter drive against the flywheel rim and closes a switch to power up the motor
Tom
2004 Ashwamegh 6/1 #217 - ST5 just over 3k hours.

Stan

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Re: Starting RPM for crankover plus bonus DC-DC question puzzle
« Reply #12 on: November 24, 2006, 04:07:03 AM »
Go and look at this.  Just remember that Arrow engines are the Rolls Royce of stationary engines.
Stan

http://www.arrowengines.com/media/990starter.pdf

Doug

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Re: Starting RPM for crankover plus bonus DC-DC question puzzle
« Reply #13 on: November 24, 2006, 04:27:57 AM »
Just thought for those interested this is an Indian starter by "Auto Lek". Its a clone of Bosch so why bother buying a new ???? when you can buy a reconned Bosch or a new one if you like...

http://www.putfile.com/dougwp/images/31565

Doug

jtodd

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Re: Starting RPM for crankover plus bonus DC-DC question puzzle
« Reply #14 on: November 24, 2006, 08:59:17 AM »
Some other approaches: user BruceM set up an air tank which runs a Gast air motor which turns a rubber wheel which spins up the flywheel.  He used a foot pedal to engage/disengage the rubber wheel.  Eric at rockymountainpowersource.com has a prototype for an electric motor which turns a rubber wheel which spins up the flywheel.  It auto-disengages, I believe somehow with centripetal force.  Mike Montieth at listeroids.com was cutting ring gears and mounting them onto flywheel for use with automotive starters, but his supplier now does this for him.  A few electric motors, such as those on the genuine start-o-matics, double as starters.

The air motor/smog pump ideas are interesting and I'm sure would work, except then I have to build an air tank, and it's a limited start option - once you're out of air, you're back to the hand crank.  Regardless, I'm sure that would work well most of the time, but I'm looking for something to reduce the number of parts on this setup, and an air start would increase the number of parts and failure points.  This project is getting wildly out of control already, and an air tank/compressor/control system would probably cause my head to explode.

The electric motor with a rubber wheel would be pretty good, now that I think about it.  I could still use a belt-driven alternator on that flywheel, and the rubber wheel could run up against the flywheel in the "lee" area where the belt wouldn't be touching.  Still more complex than a starter generator, but not  unrealistic.  Any part numbers for the engines used on those?  Not sure what would need to happen to automatically push the roller up against the flywheel and back it off again...

Interesting about Mike Montieth's electric start rumors.  I obtained a pulley from him for the aircraft starter/generator (and a few other things) but his work schedule has led him to be very slow in replies and deliveries.  His work quality is excellent but without information on what it is he's selling, it's a difficult situation to figure out what I could possibly implement that he's built.  If he has ring gears, there is no evidence that he's selling them on his website, and in fact he makes it seem that he's stopped production of them except with finished engines (http://www.listeroids.com/Electric_start_update.html) and there are no pictures or clues of anything else - it's mostly just rumors.  I'd be happy with a ring gear if I could get one to fit on my 12/2 Powersolutions/JKson, but I've never seen someone selling or making them, and the prospect of having one cut that large is a bit on the "extreme" side from a cost perspective.  Plus, the few car-starter ring setups I've actually seen or seen pictures of, the starter is on the "outside" of the flywheel, and my chassis is narrower than that, so a belt-driven setup is the way to go if I want to keep things physically compact and centered between the ends of the crank, I think.

Another issue: The amperage on the starter/generator needs to be more than 15A or even 22A at 12V, which is another problem with the ones I see on eBay even if they are powerful enough.   I probably need around 60 amps with all the stuff that I'm running at peak - relays, gauges, fuel heaters, fuel rack hold electromagnets etc. and other systems that aren't directly related to the engine, so I probably would be happier having some headroom at 100 or 120 amps.  Granted, my normal load will probably be around 20A, but that's still quite a bit.  I hate the prospect of converting from 110 or 220 into 12V when I already have a 12V supply with a belt attached to it, so tapping off my main A/C generator is something I'd like to avoid at all costs (and it just seems like a bad idea to have the main load and the control circuits hooked to the same power supply - it's years of large-scale networking that tells me that "out-of-band control" and "primary load" networks, systems, and power supplies should never cross-pollute, and this is a similar concept.)

Stan - very nice Arrow starter - good find!  Looks like it costs as much as my car!  :-)  Still requires "by hand" activation, and I'm looking for something a bit more cheap, automated, and integrated with an alternator...

Doug - the starter and that whole 10/1 is nice, but how does one get a ring gear to install behind a 12/2 flywheel?  Or "where does one get" is the better question...

At this point, I still see two options as being most clear:
  1) get a starter/generator motor with the right pulley, amperage, torque, and rotation (best solution!)
  2) put both an electric starter AND a generator on the flywheel in some combination of:
      - an automotive starter and ring gear on the flywheel
      - a rubber wheel friction starter
      - a belt-driven alternator
      - an automotive starter driving a small ring gear on the alternator pulley (hmm...)

To do #1, I need to find the "magic" starter/generator for probably a small plane engine.

To do #2, I need to think some more. :-)

JT