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Author Topic: Just picked the case up from the Hot Tank  (Read 7692 times)

Reno Speedster

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Just picked the case up from the Hot Tank
« on: January 06, 2006, 12:26:57 AM »
I just picked the case up from the hot tank and despite going through the tank twice, it didn't get all the paint off.  It was not a total loss however, looking inside the case all of the spots with sand under the paint were clearly visible because they held onto some of the solution, turning the paint a darker color due to the moisture.  I spent some time with a small hammer and screwdriver chipping out the sand and paint in these spots.  It was surpriseingly tenacious and it was sort of a mixture of sand and cast iron, but there is a pretty good pile of the stuff in the case now.  The worst of it was around the drain hole but there were small deposits in other places as well.  I will get back inside with a stiff brush on a die grinder once the chipping is done then paint it with some rustolium rusty metal primer (very tough paint when given enough time to cure) inside and out.  I'm just about to pour the block for the engine mount so that when the case is painted and ready to start reassembly it can be bolted down and the engine built up in place.  Nice to be home and back to work.

SHIPCHIEF

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Re: Just picked the case up from the Hot Tank
« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2006, 01:10:30 AM »
Good to know...
I just dropped my case off at the machine shop to be hot tanked. He warned me that the ASHWAMEGH decal would be gone ::), I told him I hoped all the paint would be gone as well.
He said it would probably be in over the week end....
I used a needle scaler in all the areas it would reach (thanks for the tip guys!) and a screwdriver / hammer combo. Then I used a die grinder to remove casting flash and big bumps, and a big file to smooth the inspection door opening (Hey, I stick my hands in there!)
I hope the remainder of the sand / clay / whatever will be gone.
I do not plan to paint the inside. I plan to use any fuel this engine will run on, and if biodiesel will take the paint off the outside, I'm afraid it might do the same on the inside, which might not be a good thing. :-X
Scott E
Ashwamegh 25/2 & ST12
Lister SR2 10Kw 'Long Edurance' genset on a 10 gallon sump/skid,
Onan 6.5NH in an old Jeager Compressor trailer and a few CCK's

n2toh

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Re: Just picked the case up from the Hot Tank
« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2006, 03:05:35 AM »
I just picked the case up from the hot tank and despite going through the tank twice, it didn't get all the paint off.  It was not a total loss however, looking inside the case all of the spots with sand under the paint were clearly visible because they held onto some of the solution, turning the paint a darker color due to the moisture.  I spent some time with a small hammer and screwdriver chipping out the sand and paint in these spots.  It was surpriseingly tenacious and it was sort of a mixture of sand and cast iron, but there is a pretty good pile of the stuff in the case now.  The worst of it was around the drain hole but there were small deposits in other places as well.  I will get back inside with a stiff brush on a die grinder once the chipping is done then paint it with some rustolium rusty metal primer (very tough paint when given enough time to cure) inside and out.  I'm just about to pour the block for the engine mount so that when the case is painted and ready to start reassembly it can be bolted down and the engine built up in place.  Nice to be home and back to work.

Reno

If I were you I'd paint the engine with POR-15, (NO I don't work for them or sell the stuff!) I have found it to work far better then rustolium. You can find it here http://www.por15.com/

Also I have used this http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/CLEANERSDEGREASERS/PORSTRIP/tabid/83/Default.aspx to strip old nasty sun baked on paint from wrot iron.
« Last Edit: January 06, 2006, 04:21:35 AM by n2toh »
About 60 years is all it takes to make science fiction a reality.

Doug

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Re: Just picked the case up from the Hot Tank
« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2006, 04:12:23 AM »
Hey Reno Speeder and fellow listers:

If you can find some Glyptal G-1201A spray paint(or other brand Class F electrical finnish) at an electrcial suplier use it inside your motor. Its a high grade red semi gloss finish paint designed for sealing out moister and dirt for electric motor windings but its also great for motors and gear boxes because its oil ressitant, high temeprature and seals surfaces. "Loctite" has a product called "Chisle Gasket Remover" it will peel anything off of cast (product code number 79040).

Doug

Reno Speedster

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Re: Just picked the case up from the Hot Tank
« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2006, 04:24:54 AM »
Thanks for the tips.  Red glyptol is the old standby but I haven't found a source locally that has it in spray cans.  I bought it in bottles when I was working on the gen head so that I could give the windings better insulation.  My machine shop recomends the rustolium.  The trick with it is to give it alot of time to cure.  Its quite tender when its fresh but once its realy dry its quite tough.  Keeping it hot speeds the process up.   Honestly, this thing will be quite clean when I get it done and painting it may be overkill, but it helps the oil run off the castings better and it will seal in anything I miss. 

Joe

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Re: Just picked the case up from the Hot Tank
« Reply #5 on: January 06, 2006, 04:48:42 AM »
I have no financial link to this at all…. :D

I picked up some spray cans of Glyptal 1201 on eBay about a month ago.  It was and still is available for $5.00 ea. Shipping was $4.85 for 4 cans. It looks to have been Government surplus by the label on it. Just a heads up however, it has a manufacture date of 1995.  I figured to use 2+ cans on the engine and 1+ on the generator.  If it lacks adequate propellant then I’ll puncture the cans and pour it into the Binks #7….

Joe
Nothing is easy...if it were...anybody could do it.

2005 Power Solutions  6/1-ST5

Stan

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Re: Just picked the case up from the Hot Tank
« Reply #6 on: January 06, 2006, 04:56:32 AM »
You have to be carefull when painting cast iron, it soaks up not only water but also chemicals when being hot tanked and washed and most paints won't like that at all....I'd imagine drying out the bottom case of a Listeroid would take lots of time and lots of heat.  The POR 15 however uses moisture as a catalyst to cure it so H2O wouldn't be a problem, don't know what chemicals are involved with hot tanking.  (hot tubbing I know about ;))
Stan

n2toh

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Re: Just picked the case up from the Hot Tank
« Reply #7 on: January 06, 2006, 05:44:47 AM »
You have to be carefull when painting cast iron, it soaks up not only water but also chemicals when being hot tanked and washed and most paints won't like that at all....I'd imagine drying out the bottom case of a Listeroid would take lots of time and lots of heat.  The POR 15 however uses moisture as a catalyst to cure it so H2O wouldn't be a problem, don't know what chemicals are involved with hot tanking.  (hot tubbing I know about ;))
Stan

hot tank is no problem with POR15, I had the spicer 18 transfer case from my Jeep tanked before I coated it with POR and the stuff is still on there after 6 years of bashing over rocks.
About 60 years is all it takes to make science fiction a reality.

quinnf

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Re: Just picked the case up from the Hot Tank
« Reply #8 on: January 06, 2006, 06:17:49 AM »
Stan,

Hot tanks for steel and cast iron use sodium hydroxide (lye) and potassium hydroxide in water.  Both are excellent paint removers, however following hot tanking, the parts are rinsed with a blast from a water hose.  If they haven't, the parts will have a soapy feel when you touch them with damp fingers.  Both sodium and potassium hydroxides are very soluble in water, so they are removed immediately by a final water rinse.  Any residue would be unlikely to cause a problem because there would be so little.  However, depending on how long it has been since the caustic solution was last changed, you could end up with some oily residue clinging to surfaces.  Before painting, it's always a good idea to wipe down the parts with solvent. 

The POR15 sounds like it's a 2-part linear polyurethane, so it would probably be a good one to paint the inside of the crankcase with.  I am almost certain residual sodium hydroxide in biodiesel won't touch 2-part polyurethane.  However, anyone running biodiesel that hasn't been neutralized (a simple final step) is just asking for problems.  I expect the injection pump and injector(s) will be the first to act up. 

Shipchief, you really ought to have something in there because even the best quality cast iron is porous. 

Quinn

Doug

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Re: Just picked the case up from the Hot Tank
« Reply #9 on: January 06, 2006, 06:31:24 AM »
Your local rewind shop will have a steam geny and bake oven set at 300. Don't ask me what that might cost but you can be sure it would be clean and dry......

At the risk of coming up with the best all time dumb idea sugestion, dip the hot iron in the varnish tank, bake again and spend the next 3 weeks trying to scrap that "PD George" out of all the places you didn't want sealed lol

Doug

Reno Speedster

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Re: Just picked the case up from the Hot Tank
« Reply #10 on: January 06, 2006, 06:47:21 AM »
You have to be carefull when painting cast iron, it soaks up not only water but also chemicals when being hot tanked and washed and most paints won't like that at all....I'd imagine drying out the bottom case of a Listeroid would take lots of time and lots of heat.  The POR 15 however uses moisture as a catalyst to cure it so H2O wouldn't be a problem, don't know what chemicals are involved with hot tanking.  (hot tubbing I know about ;))
Stan

Hey Stan:
   You can also accelerate the drying of the Iron by washing it in acetone.  It not only cuts any oily film but it is hydroscopic so it will bind the water and cause it to evaporate as the acetone evaporates.  Just don't smoke while you are doing it!

Morgan

n2toh

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Re: Just picked the case up from the Hot Tank
« Reply #11 on: January 06, 2006, 07:08:25 AM »
Stan,

Hot tanks for steel and cast iron use sodium hydroxide (lye) and potassium hydroxide in water.  Both are excellent paint removers, however following hot tanking, the parts are rinsed with a blast from a water hose.  If they haven't, the parts will have a soapy feel when you touch them with damp fingers.  Both sodium and potassium hydroxides are very soluble in water, so they are removed immediately by a final water rinse.  Any residue would be unlikely to cause a problem because there would be so little.  However, depending on how long it has been since the caustic solution was last changed, you could end up with some oily residue clinging to surfaces.  Before painting, it's always a good idea to wipe down the parts with solvent. 

The POR15 sounds like it's a 2-part linear polyurethane, so it would probably be a good one to paint the inside of the crankcase with.  I am almost certain residual sodium hydroxide in biodiesel won't touch 2-part polyurethane.  However, anyone running biodiesel that hasn't been neutralized (a simple final step) is just asking for problems.  I expect the injection pump and injector(s) will be the first to act up. 

Shipchief, you really ought to have something in there because even the best quality cast iron is porous. 

Quinn


Quinn

POR15 is a one part hydro catalysed sp? coating. IE water makes it harden.

What ever you do don't let this stuff get on your skin! No amount of scrubbing will remove it, It take several weeks to wear off. Ask me how I know. >:(
« Last Edit: January 06, 2006, 07:11:53 AM by n2toh »
About 60 years is all it takes to make science fiction a reality.

quinnf

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Re: Just picked the case up from the Hot Tank
« Reply #12 on: January 06, 2006, 07:42:21 AM »
Ok, I think that's still a polyurethane.  They are usually cured by moisture, and the new formulations (that I have read about but not used) don't require mixing in a separate catalyst. 

Like epoxies, they are also immune system sensitants.  My dad and I learned that the hard way when they first came out in the marine market in about 1980.  We were spraying the boat deck and he breathed a little too much of the spray vapors.  Landed him in the hospital a few days later with severe allergic symptoms (asthma and hives) that his bloodwork showed were responses to all kinds of things.  Doc couldn't figure it out until I explained what I had read on the safety information that came with the paint.  Then that somehow became HIS discovery.  Twirp!

If you spray the stuff, wear a cartridge respirator not a dust mask and pay attention to the safety precautions they provide you.  This stuff isn't like regular paint.

Quinn