12-2 Genset Mounting

[gpkull]

the slab cracking is a possibility. if you can isolate your block from your slab. pops has a 12/1 on a block tied to his slab. hasnt cracked anything yet but the riod can be felt in the ground many feet away.

[hotater]

Skeeter--

The PVC is strung over the 3/4" hold-down bolts so the bolts aren't cast in concrete in the top foot or so.  That lets the anchor bolts stretch some and also lines them up for a straight pull better.



Heres' the frame upside down.



This is the crancase being leveled before bolting down.  The anchor bolts have room to move side to side and fore and aft so the engine slipped right into place.



THis is with the drip pan in place and the engine bolted down for keeps.

[gpkull]

sorry for the dbl post got connection probs during the first
hotater i love it you havean art for this kind of thing for sure.

[gpkull]

this topic is getting bigger. if it is so wrong to mount your riod to a concrete block why does it come with 2ft anchoring rods?
after mounting your riod to the block you will say i should have done this a long time ago
also it cant be all that bad at worst it takes just a little bit longer to spool down sorry for those who wannabe they will never no
the tag states stationary for a reason get over the idea of portable and think stationary the only thing home depot and this unit have in common is the quick crete to mount it to

[skeeter]

hotator - Thanks for the explaination. Does make alot of sense. Variation of idea may work well in my case. I found some scrap c-channel today for mounting rails. About 3" W x 9 1/2" deep, webs are around 1/4" thk. I think its heavy enough. I plan to weld stringers to set orientation with one another, then suspend/support pair above/ in hole opening. I'm not exactly sure how I'm going to do this yet, to adjust levelness and fix position. When finished with first pour, most of c-channel will be embedded in block, futher anchored in with thread rods, rebar, and scrap metal.  I should be "pouring" my block and slab later this week.

Everyone - Thanks for your inputs.

[Rtqii]

I'm now thinking I may just add expansion joints between the slab and the block sides that pass through the slab. Forget cushioning the block or the set with rubber or other resilent material. I don't wont it to move(or as little as possible), period. Reading hotaters accounts have convinced me of that. I'm just considering detaching the block mass from the mass of the slab. Thats all.

Expansion joints that prevent direct bonding of the equipment block to the slab should work... I plan on sealing some carpet scraps in plastic tarping with silicon sealant and placing those around the block at strategic locations... Like between the block and the surrounding floor.

You also mentioned the mounting lugs (threaded bar, bolts, etc).  If the mount lugs are cast solidily into the block all the way up to the engine base, all the torque applied when tightening, and all the force applied by engine motion, will converge on the one or two lowest exposed threads on the mounting lug... The bottom one or two threads where the lug exits the block; this is where the bolt will fail and shear off.

In my research I have seen specs that prevent this localized stress... The top 10-12 inches of the mounting lug are covered with foam, tubing, tape, etc., when the block is poured. This free section of the lug distributes the installation and operational stresses over the 10-12 inches of unbonded metal... So the torque and vibrational stresses are not focused on just one or two threads.

[skeeter]

Rtqii - much like hotator did on his new mount. Sounds like a good plan to me. I was thinking of slipping pvc tubing around the almost nine inches of threaded rod  between the ribs (not sure this is the proper terminolgy) of the c-channels. The rod would be nutted (or this) to the bottom rib, and would pass through a clearance hole on the top mounting surface. Not quite 10 -12", but better then one thread. I agree with you all the way.