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Author Topic: My God there is some crap going on here.  (Read 100006 times)

GuyFawkes

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Re: My God there is some crap going on here.
« Reply #45 on: October 28, 2006, 09:36:45 AM »
Binnie, thanks for the kind words, but someone gives me money to do something then it behooves me to give them that thing to the best of my ability, the situation (someone buying something sight unseen on the strength of a couple of small pictures and a few lines of advert) and the other factors (that someone being too far away to see for themselves) make it a fairly straightforwards job.

I'll say up front what I said to you off channel.

Your unit has "issues", but nothing that would worry me too much. It isn'y quite in the area of honest and benign neglect that I like, because then you only have to deal with the ravages of time and circumstance, but on the other hand it is not an example of mechanical vandalism, abuse and wilful neglect, which is what we are starting to see elsewhere now that they are going up in value, the one after yours topped 4 figures on ebay. Like yours this was a set that is not sold as being 100% working and generating power and ready for duty after a basic service and inspection.

I know I like engineering and I like doing or seeing quality work, and I know that puts me out at one end of the scale, but tales of buying engines and not doing even the most basic checks before running them and then blowing the bottom end when you discover you have run with no oil pump for six hours is nothing short of vandalism and abuse in my book, and if I was god I would ban people like that from ever owning any machinery.

Fat chance I know, and I;ve seen god knows how many different bits of lovely machinery of exotica reduced to basket cases because of it. As I get older it kills me just as much to watch it every time, what is the fucking point in killing something throught stupidity when there are people out there who would make a good go of it.

But I have now seen many example of that place where the wreckers have moved in, and things that would have been better left as a box of bits with benign neglect being assembled with some of the lowest quality workmanship imaginable, run like that and abused so benign neglect turns into mechanical vandalism and abuse, and sold as runners when in reality they are basket cases of parts whirling in close formation on the way to the scrap yard, useless for anything except an example of how not to do it.

Unfortunately most people on here don't have the right engineering skill set or experience to appreciate this up front, so they will pay over the odds for a basket case and lo and behold old listers get a bad name for being shite and unreliable old pieces of crap.... the same thing happened with old british bikes etc.

On a personal note this offends me too, because it also cheapens the role of the engineer or artisan, it is a pile of shit crap old engine so why pay an "engineer" to fettle it properly, so nobody experiences the smoothness, reliability, character and steam engine like qualities of a properly fettled Lister CS.

Ask Geno about his bearings and a man called Zig.

Reduce listers to old crap pieces of shite and no way he would have taken the chance of going to a Zig, and that is a crying shame, for his motor, for himself, for zig, and for everyone else when zig decides to quit cos it ain't worth it.

it's a swansong

cheers
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Original Lister CS 6/1 Start-o-matic 2.5 Kw (radiator conversion)
3Kw 130 VDC Dynamo to be added. (compressor + hyd pump)
Original Lister D, megasquirt multifuel project, compressor and truck alternator.
Current status - project / standby, Fuel, good old pump diesel.

Geno

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Re: My God there is some crap going on here.
« Reply #46 on: October 29, 2006, 12:32:55 AM »
Zig owns the Babbitt Pot  http://www.thebabbittpot.com/

My original bearings couldn’t be used because of some damage done in the Indian test run.
http://www.genedevera.com/listeroid/3-1-06/P1010001.jpg

Before I found Zig I tried to make my spare ones work. I had 2 sets of spares and had never worked on the bottom end of an engine before. Pistons, rings, cams, valves, bearings and the like yes. Bottom ends no. I researched things well, knew the theory, bought the plastigauge and Prussian blue but on one set of spares I got wiping within 20-30 hours. It had some knock and the bottom end was not going to last. I didn’t know it at the time but these bearings had no crush. I probably caused that trying to get the correct clearance. My bad, my lack of experience.
http://www.genedevera.com/temp/wiping.jpg
Hotater fragged some bearings on his Fuking about the same time so I stopped working on the engine and began to think. There was all this talk here about hollow dippers, oil pressurized bearings and more oil grooves in the shells. Originals didn’t need it so there was something else wrong. It had to be the journal, the shells or both. It was time to call support.

A while later I asked for GF’s advise and got some.

GF quote
Engineer hat on, pretend you just paid me good money for this advice.

Lister quote 3 thou as max permissible wear. so you're screwed before you start with those tolerances.

1/ I assume you have TRB mains, go and find out about shimming the end covers to adjust preload on the TRBs, ideally go and get your hands dirty somewhere learning about them in the meantime.

2/ meantime --- go and find a PROPER machinist, leg work and questions, will probably be an older guy, and give him your crankshaft, conrod, shells and ideally piston and rings too, explain clearly that they are a clone of what was primo quality english engineering to swiss watch standards, and ask him to use his skill and experience to bring out of that material the things that lie within.

3/ do this right and spend SOME money now and you won't have to do it again for years, and will save a fortune, if necessary pay the machinst extra (I am deadly serious) so that you can stand over his shoulder and have him explain to you the measurements he is taking and the remedial work he will do --- If you find a good machinst I WILL GIVE YOU THE MONEY you spend on looking over his shoulder if you do not agree afterwards it was money well spent, I am that serious about this. THis is a bet I have made many times over the years, no-one has ever collected.

the secret is finding a GOOD machinist, and I mean bloody good, and then having the faith to put your trust and money in his hands in exchange for his expertise and experience.

right now you will be saying "but if he can do a job as good as you say, why learn because I won't use it again", but that is the nature of knowledge, you have to gain it before you can understand how to apply it, you WILL learn things that you WILL use every week.
End GF quote

Where the hell am I going to find someone like that in upstate N.Y.
As it turned out the Washington County Fair was coming up. It’s a big, agriculture oriented, classic Americana type fair. There wasn’t much there in the way of stationary engines but there were over a hundred antique tractors. I only had to talk to a few local tractor guys to find out Zig was the man I needed to see.

I brought the piston, con rod, crank and all my bearings to Zig. It’s a nice little shop, he works alone and has been there a long time. He found the journal to be round, that’s good because he doesn’t have a crank machine, he sends them out. He tried to make my last new set of bearings fit but couldn’t. When he bored them after fitting them in the rod he found the babbitt material to be way to thin and cut through it. I was there to watch him pour my new bearings and a bunch of other ones for a 1917 Packard V12. He also had a V8 block on the bench that was all set up for line boring the crank bearings he made. I wasn’t there all that long but being able to see the things I had only visualized was very informative. I like to ask questions and Zig likes to answer them. Unfortunately that led to him leaving a one piece bearing on the shaft a little to long and he had some trouble removing it. I was only able to stay a little while longer but I will be going back and will hopefully get to help him around the shop.

The engine, with the new bearings, has about 50 hours on it and seems to be running fine. I don’t have any reason to look at the shells, and probably won’t for a long time. I just got done running and hooking up the power line for the house and am writing this on Listeroid power. I’m going to plumb the large, secondary, alternative fuel, fuel tank now.

http://www.genedevera.com/temp/zig-bearing1.jpg
http://www.genedevera.com/temp/zig-bearing2.jpg

I’ve been saying I’m almost done with the engine/engine room for a long time now but I really am close this time and will post a bunch of pics soon on the project page.
http://www.genedevera.com/listeroid/

My thanks to GF and Zig for their help.

Thanks, Geno

binnie

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Re: My God there is some crap going on here.
« Reply #47 on: October 29, 2006, 01:49:18 AM »
Great story Geno!
and invaluable info on the contact, "Zig." Thanks for that link. Besides the listeroid & SOM lister I have that may need this type of work done once I get it over here, (Zig is not too far from Montreal, Cda.), I also have a small collection of Packards from the 30's, which are still original & running, with minor restoration as needed. Zig sounds like the man I will need to have the motors referbished when I need it. So far they are still  amazingly doing their thing with no complaints.
As Guy Fawkes says, he would rather find an original untampered with than one fooled arround with by a novice. So would I. However, when it comes to Listers, we are at the mercy of the market place, and must use our own judgement from remote distance & gamble a little on the odds that we are doing the best thing with the purchase. It is nice to know that "Zig" exists & is available. Thanks binnie.
By the way I am using two such victorian hot water radiators in line, much like yours for the coolant on my 12/2....they are in the kennel above the engine room & working off of siphon circulation. I may add a small Taco pump to the system to get the water moving a little more rapidly. I am amazed that you managed to get the damn thing up so high on the wall. The bloody things are heavy....can understand why you screwed the shit out of the wall bracket. How did you manage to get the cast iron rad up there? Blows me away !


Listeroid 12/2 Jkson with 10kw head, for backup now on diesel. Future interests: WVO, bio,  Cogen - Heat exchangers - solar.

listeroil

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Re: My God there is some crap going on here.
« Reply #48 on: October 29, 2006, 01:53:22 AM »
Oh I am so sorry to have offended the almighty

Insert Quote
I got my first 2.5KW Lister startomatic 5 years ago and had no documentation or experiance of these bits of kit.

What else am I suposed to check if I have no knowledge of these particular engines
Oil I checked it
Water I filled the tank
Connected 2 batteries

It had been passed to me as a working bit of kit I didnt know about hand priming the oil system and I siezed the engine. I had never seen a generator like this before it looked more like a steam engine to me. I didnt have lots of clever people to advise me I had zero information about them It used to belong to a mate of mine and had been working reliably untill his death. His son lent it to me about 6 monthes after it had last run What more could I have checked  

How do you tell if the pumps not working when the engines running?

I posted my information so that other people might not make the same mistake as i made.

It is totaly gutting when you sieze your new generator. I actually needed a generator I live off grid. I have been running a startomatic everyday for the last 5 years 8 hours a day weekdays and 12 hours on weekends and they are most wonderfull bits of kit. which I have found very reliable.

I know alot more about startomatics now and allways check the oil pump is working now I also test the mainbearings with a 4 foot prybar under the flywheels check the big end same method through the crankcase door I also clean out the sump and fill with fresh HD 30 diesel oil. I havent made the same mistake again

Anyway 2 points to make
The genuine lister oil system is not failsafe.
Lister crankshafts break whether bolted to a concrete block or not.

 (I really don't think you, many other people here, or people who write "many texts" understand the Lister lube system. THERE IS NO FAILURE MODE FOR SPLASH LUBE, OR FOR OIL RING LUBE. Got that, it can NEVER go wrong or stop working, as long as there is oil in the crankcase. As long as there is oil in the crankcase, there is sufficient lubrication to achieve near idefinite lifespans at full load. The KISS principle taken to the extreme. Do you not get this, Lister were quite aware of other methods of lubrication, but NOTHING even comes close to the simplicity and resilience of splash and oil ring, if the motor is turning and it has oil, then splash and oil ring will lube everything, there is literally nothing to go wrong and nothing to service or wear out, EVER.)

Point 1 It does not matter whether I am a vandel or not If the oil pump fails on a lister single cylinder CS engine it will sieze this is fact I have done it It cost me good and it hurt at the time.  I am not bothered about mt ego I admit I am a dickhead and honestly admitted what I did. It takes bottle to admit you messed up but I did. What I dont like is statements like above which state opinions as if gospel.

Point 2  Crankshafts break. I only passed on the information because the engine had still been running generating electricity and only when it came to shut off time did it become apparant. I think this is amazing. The set was regluarly serviced and not in bad condition the crank just broke in service and it could have been running for 8 hours like that. The guy didnt know he just got another engine the next day. This was in excess of 5 years ago and his secondhand engine cost him 500 quid from his local generator dealer  I personaly do not deduce anything from this just that cranks break whether bolted down to a concrefe block or not.

I thought a forum was for civilised conversation not personal attacks all I am doing is sharing my personal expierance. I have been running these things for 5 years now and have learnt the hard way. They have only become popular again recently
5 years ago there wasnt a wealth of information available and spares parts very expensive if vou could get them. Now I have decent documentation and Indian spares. Thanks to the  popularity of listeroids in the US this information is now abundant.2 years ago if you googled lister cs or startomatic you got very little information now there pages and pages. So thank you US cousins. You have done more to promote listers than we in the UK.

I am running a fully up and running 8/1 engined 4.5KW start o matic as I type this This has a totally functioning startomatic system which I use to start the set with  I use this system because it charges the batteries as well. It has taken me years to get  the startomatic working properly.The second one I got had melted the charging contacts in the control box and I managed to get another control box  I connected that up and it vaporised the same contacts again.
Ive got the lister manual now and the contacts need setting up very carefully or else you blow up your contacts. The reason I open myself up to abuse is that I dont want any of you US buyers to make the same mistake as I made.
Before you first start them up make sure the contacts operate in the correct fashion. There is a manual for the 4.5 KW startomatic on the Lister   CSOG · Putting Lister CS Engines back to Work  UK forum this has the contact timming sequence in it and if you become a member you can download it

Anyway good luck to any of you US buyers getting startomatics from the UK most of  them I have come across have been quite worn and if you are thinking of buying a startomatic over here make sure its got all its boxes top box on generator and wallbox dont buy if they havent got these and even then ask for photos of inside the boxes if the contacts have burnt out they are a real bitch to get.

Anyway I am going to bed now I will post the engine number of the first engine that I siezed just in case I decide to sell it in the future. So people can avoid it like the plague if it comes on the market in the future.

Mick (real name)




GuyFawkes

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Re: My God there is some crap going on here.
« Reply #49 on: October 29, 2006, 10:05:17 AM »
Oh I am so sorry to have offended the almighty

Insert Quote
I got my first 2.5KW Lister startomatic 5 years ago and had no documentation or experiance of these bits of kit.


Ah get over yourself, no documentation and no experience didn't stop you from vandalising one.

Some years ago a guy I knew paid a thousand pounds for an old 100watt class 4 laser, the idea was to cut metal, he had no documentation and no experience, I told him not to power it up, go find someone who knew something about them and order the books from the maker and don't look into laser with remaining eye.

Apparently about 4 hours later he threw brains and caution to the wind and started playing with it, we will never know what he did wrong, but he blew it up, literally, and had to pay SWEB about 500 quid to repair the mains supply to the row of cottages.


Quote

What else am I suposed to check if I have no knowledge of these particular engines
Oil I checked it
Water I filled the tank
Connected 2 batteries


Oh I guess that's it, and make sure you are wearing dark sunglasses and a fedora so you look cool too.

You obviously have an innate psychic ability and no need to perform routine checks and maintenance like us mere mortals.

Quote

It had been passed to me as a working bit of kit


and it sounds like it was, until you got hold of it

Quote

I didnt know about hand priming the oil system and I siezed the engine. I had never seen a generator like this before it looked more like a steam engine to me.


yeah, it was full of all these really wierd and strange things like poppet valves and bearing shells and lubricating oil and functioned on completely different principles to every other diesel.

Quote
I didnt have lots of clever people to advise me I had zero information about them It used to belong to a mate of mine and had been working reliably untill his death. His son lent it to me about 6 monthes after it had last run What more could I have checked 

How do you tell if the pumps not working when the engines running?
You check the pump BEFORE you start the bloody engine, and when the engine is running you LISTEN, and when you take it off load you give it a minute or two for the temperatures to equalise before shutting down, etc etc etc

Quote

I posted my information so that other people might not make the same mistake as i made.

It is totaly gutting when you sieze your new generator. I actually needed a generator I live off grid. I have been running a startomatic everyday for the last 5 years 8 hours a day weekdays and 12 hours on weekends and they are most wonderfull bits of kit. which I have found very reliable.

5 years x 52 weeks x 5 days x 8 hours = 10400
5 years x 52 weeks x 2 days x 12 hours = 6240
10400 + 6240 = 16640 hours

A testament to their reliability even under abusive and neglect conditions
Quote

I know alot more about startomatics now and allways check the oil pump is working now I also test the mainbearings with a 4 foot prybar under the flywheels check the big end same method through the crankcase door


I'm sat here shaking my head in awe that anyone can actually be dumb enough to write stuff like that and expect to be taken seriously.

You are a mechanical vandal of the first order.

Quote

I also clean out the sump and fill with fresh HD 30 diesel oil. I havent made the same mistake again


No, it sounds like you have invented a whole slew of brand new and equally mind boggling practices.

Quote

Anyway 2 points to make
The genuine lister oil system is not failsafe.


well, it's not idiot proof, Lister never shipped a 4 foot crowbar or 16lb sledge as part of the official tool kit

Quote
Lister crankshafts break whether bolted to a concrete block or not.

see above
Quote



Point 1 It does not matter whether I am a vandel or not If the oil pump fails on a lister single cylinder CS engine it will sieze this is fact I have done it It cost me good and it hurt at the time.  I am not bothered about mt ego I admit I am a dickhead and honestly admitted what I did. It takes bottle to admit you messed up but I did. What I dont like is statements like above which state opinions as if gospel.


Well the thing is it is not an opinion, it is fact and it is gospel.
Did it never occur to that thing that you use as a brain that there has to be a really good reason to put a lubricating oil pump and plumbing OUTSIDE an engine block instead of in the more suitable environment inside the block?

Did it never occur to you that with the oils of the day Lister expected it to sludge up now and again and interfere with the functioning of the oil pump, so they put it on the outside so 2 unions and 2 bolts and 60 seconds later the pump is in your hand so you can strip, clean and test in in 5 minutes and have it back on the engine ready for service.

Did it never occur to you that the shut down delay on start-o-matic sets after no load wasn't in case farmer turned another light on, but to equalise the temps inside the engine before shutting down?

Did it never occur to you that these engines clearly will run with no oil pump for some time, PROVIDED ALL OTHER THINGS ARE EQUAL AND ADEQUATELY MAINTAINED because they were designed that way with the splash lube system.

Do you think you are the first person ever to encounter a gummed up oil pump? Which can only happen with dirty oil or oil that has been left standing a long time?

Quote

Point 2  Crankshafts break. I only passed on the information because the engine had still been running generating electricity and only when it came to shut off time did it become apparant. I think this is amazing. The set was regluarly serviced and not in bad condition the crank just broke in service and it could have been running for 8 hours like that. The guy didnt know he just got another engine the next day. This was in excess of 5 years ago and his secondhand engine cost him 500 quid from his local generator dealer  I personaly do not deduce anything from this just that cranks break whether bolted down to a concrefe block or not.


You deduce anything you like, cranks don't break in service without a reason, and that reason is negligence, pure and simple.

Doesn't it occur to you that an engine that can break a crank and still run (not as rare as you might think) has to be designed well enough so that transient loads are relatively low in normal service conditions? and if transient loads are realtively low, how can they break a crank?

christ on a crutch, you have got 16 thousand hours and you're taking a 4 foot crow bar to the mains and big ends...



Quote

I thought a forum was for civilised conversation not personal attacks all I am doing is sharing my personal expierance.


I am BEING civilized, if I saw you taking a 4 foot crow bar to big ends I'd snatch it out of your hands and beat you with it until you absorbed clue #1


Quote

 I have been running these things for 5 years now and have learnt the hard way.


You haven't learned a damn thing, you are getting a free ride on the over-engineering of the Lister factory and sailing along as ignorant as ever and as vandalistic as ever

Quote

 They have only become popular again recently
5 years ago there wasnt a wealth of information available and spares parts very expensive if vou could get them.



Rubbish
you're in a specialized forum, go outside of it and as time passes there are proportionally less and less people each year who know anything about them.

Quote

Now I have decent documentation and Indian spares.


But sadly no brain or mechanical aptitude

Quote

 Thanks to the  popularity of listeroids in the US this information is now abundant.2 years ago if you googled lister cs or startomatic you got very little information now there pages and pages. So thank you US cousins. You have done more to promote listers than we in the UK.

Funny how 5 years ago your mate just went to his local generator guy and bought a spare engine then innit.

Wonder how he managed that without the aid of google.

Quote

I am running a fully up and running 8/1 engined 4.5KW start o matic as I type this This has a totally functioning startomatic system which I use to start the set with  I use this system because it charges the batteries as well. It has taken me years to get  the startomatic working properly.

QED
Quote

The second one I got had melted the charging contacts in the control box and I managed to get another control box  I connected that up and it vaporised the same contacts again.


That's because you're a numbnuts

Quote

Ive got the lister manual now and the contacts need setting up very carefully or else you blow up your contacts.


Funny, we always managed with a bit of paper from a fag packet, easier than setting the tappets

Quote

 The reason I open myself up to abuse is that I dont want any of you US buyers to make the same mistake as I made.
Before you first start them up make sure the contacts operate in the correct fashion.


start-o-matics are rarer than rocking horse shit stateside, you may have noticed that is why everyone is buying chinese heads to go on their listerOIDS

there are also some pretty smart people in these forums who can read the s-o-m schematics and cobble together an electronic equivalent for less than it would cost to buy and ship over a set of s-o-m mechanical control boxes, and get a more electrically efficient system out of it to boot

there are also people who work with electrical switching every day or who ran points and coil ignition systems who know how to set up a relay.

Quote

There is a manual for the 4.5 KW startomatic on the Lister   CSOG · Putting Lister CS Engines back to Work  UK forum this has the contact timming sequence in it and if you become a member you can download it


pimp your ride

Quote

Anyway good luck to any of you US buyers getting startomatics from the UK most of  them I have come across have been quite worn



oh the irony, frankie howerd where are you now

Quote

 and if you are thinking of buying a startomatic over here make sure its got all its boxes top box on generator and wallbox dont buy if they havent got these


yeah, they contain all the magic juice without which the diesel and alternator are totally useless, the alternators are just there for show you know, you can't bypass the magic juice in the magic boxes and get power unless you are a high sith lord well versed in the arcane black arts


Quote

and even then ask for photos of inside the boxes if the contacts have burnt out they are a real bitch to get.


Probably because there are people like you around who don't realise that everything in said boxes are actually SERVICE items, eg you do not go out and buy new, you service them.


Quote

Anyway I am going to bed now I will post the engine number of the first engine that I siezed just in case I decide to sell it in the future. So people can avoid it like the plague if it comes on the market in the future.

Mick (real name)

No, ALL the engine and set numbers of EVERYTHING you have touched would be safer.
--
Original Lister CS 6/1 Start-o-matic 2.5 Kw (radiator conversion)
3Kw 130 VDC Dynamo to be added. (compressor + hyd pump)
Original Lister D, megasquirt multifuel project, compressor and truck alternator.
Current status - project / standby, Fuel, good old pump diesel.

biobill

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Re: My God there is some crap going on here.
« Reply #50 on: October 29, 2006, 01:38:12 PM »
Whoh... can anyone see the icecaps? I think I just read a previously unidentified source of global warming. Listeroil, live and learn eh, we weren't all raised by these things.    Bill
Off grid since 1990
6/1 Metro DI living in basement, cogen
6/1 Metro IDI running barn & biodiesel processer
VW 1.6 diesels all over the place
Isuzu Boxtruck, Ford Backhoe, all running on biodiesel
Needs diesel lawnmower & chainsaw

Geno

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Re: My God there is some crap going on here.
« Reply #51 on: October 29, 2006, 05:14:09 PM »
Binnie, there may not be that many people like Zig around but I’ll bet there is someone like him in the Montreal area. By nature people like Zig don’t have a high profile. People like him don’t have to advertise. That website was built by a friend or relative and I’ll bet he hasn’t even seen it in a year or more. If you need that kind of work I’m sure he’ll be happy to do it but you might want to look around locally the way I did. Antique car clubs, antique tractor organizations, fairs, probably more rural areas. When I went to the fair I had my piston and conrod in a backpack. I took some time to talk about their tractors first, not just to break the ice, their machines were fascinating and in some cases pieces of art. Few of them seemed to be “gentleman collectors” there were 20 or more lined up for the antique pull competition.

As far as the radiator is concerned its now in a slightly different configuration. I got it up there by putting a lag bolt through the wall header, attaching a pulley and towing it up there with my ATV. Before working near it I put safety straps to other hard points.
Thanks, Geno

listeroil

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Re: My God there is some crap going on here.
« Reply #52 on: October 30, 2006, 01:19:33 AM »
Who the hell do you think you are. Just a self opinionated typist you dont know what you are talking about. You claim to be an expert on all things lister. You only have a project engine which you are playing with. I run mine for power every day. I think you are full of bullshit. Ive been reading your posts with interest since I found this site and you purport to be an expert if you are so clever why dont you contribute to the UK lister forum we in the UK need as much info as possable most of the lister mechanics who worked on these machines are retired or dead. For your information the method of testing the mainbearing with a prybar was passed down to me by a time served lister engineer who serviced generators on dartmoor.  The reason he said CS engined startomatics had gone out of favour was that they didnt produce enough power and spares were very expensive most people wanted more kilowatts. The guy I bought the startomatic from was not a mate. It was an advert in ad trader the spare engine was in the corner and looked like it had been there for years. I didnt say you could buy an engine for 500 quid 5 years ago you deduced that. It was probably nearer to 10 he was then running an air cooled twin 7kw startomatic and had been for a few years. The 4.5 was just his standby unit.He sold it because he had just got an inverter and battery setup and had power 24/7.
 
Anyway you are a nasty person  to make personal attacks. Threats to hit me with a crow bar who do you think you are.I contribute to this forum not to blow my own trumpet you made this personal.

You write crap  Nortons never had jampot suspension AJS and Matchless did. Fact

Where do you get 3/8 UNC treads on a lister. Answer nowhere all the threads on lister cs engines are either BSW or BSF so where do you get off on posting on this site that the threads on listers are UNC even the thread anglle is wrong so you are a vandle join the club. I seem to remember ypu singing the joys of using your dads old taps to clean the threads on your repared cylinder. Do you get off on passing false information.

And another I saw your pictures of your startomatic a while ago they are not there now Whats all that crap in your control cubicle Ive seen a few over the years and ive never seen one like yours I think you put some crap in it to make your pictures look good the kit in lister boxes is much more substantial. It dosnt look anything like the ones in the manual that you made available.

Also on your mig welding of the cylinder anyone could tack little bits of chicken shit all round a crack then grind it down with a grinderette and make it look nice. You say a time served welder looked at your job and said it was good How did he test it xray ultrasonic no he just looked.  It cannot be a safe repair cast iron and steel do not weld together How many hours have you run your engine like this with a decent load on it. I bet you havent even done that.

The square bar on the valve lifter assembly is in the wrong position its should be on the top hole on the bell crank where the 2 spings fit. IF you are going to contribute get your facts correct


Mick  

GuyFawkes

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Re: My God there is some crap going on here.
« Reply #53 on: October 30, 2006, 03:35:39 AM »
Who the hell do you think you are. Just a self opinionated typist you dont know what you are talking about. You claim to be an expert on all things lister.


I know who I am, who the hell are you.
Who do you think I am? Mavis Beacon.
I never claimed to be an expert on all things lister, nor anything even remotely similar.

Quote

You only have a project engine which you are playing with. I run mine for power every day.


Listen bimbo, my grandad had a lister powering the farm, my dad apprenticed to farm industries in truro, so he visited most of the farms thereabouts and many of them ran on start-o-matic power, 20 some years later he bought one of the old sets he used to work on, so I grew up around em too, later on he was chief engineer for south east asia for a petro logistics outfit, apart from the fleet of 27 ships, 18 foden artics (gotta love those gardners) workshops, acres of drill pipe and other logistical supplies for the 15 rigs he was responsible for supply for, which btw included "big john" which was one of the biggest semi submersibles of the day, they ran about 40 CS series doing everything from pumping to compressors, I would have been about 6 when I started handing him spanners and shit, and routinely running our s-o-m from the age of 12, had to use a tick tock to lift the bloody heads off, and again counting flats to torque em down.

NOWADAYS I have one sat in the garden that I am indeed playing with, cos I have mains electric and gas and other things to do with my time.

NOWADAYS there are a lot of things I don't happen to do much, doesn't mean I never did them.

Quote

I think you are full of bullshit.



I don't care what you, or anyone else thinks.
I _know_ who and what I am, what I have done, what I know, I don't have dick to prove to you.

Quote

Ive been reading your posts with interest since I found this site and you purport to be an expert



in the land of the blind the one eyed man is king.
most of these guys have never seen a genuine CS, only clones, none of them grew up around them, not all of them are time served.

like I said before, i never claimed to be an expert, but I have been around them for most of my life.
Quote


if you are so clever why dont you contribute to the UK lister forum we in the UK need as much info as possable most of the lister mechanics who worked on these machines are retired or dead.



1/ this place was going first
2/ why should I
3/ I could drive up the road and say hi face to face with four dursley guys tomorrow, guys retiring now were 30 and could have had 15 years at dursley before the cs series was axed, so maybe they are just avoiding you.

Quote


For your information the method of testing the mainbearing with a prybar was passed down to me by a time served lister engineer who serviced generators on dartmoor. 



Bullshit, no time served engineer will use a 4 foot crowbar on an engine internals, ever, ever, ever.

#1 babbit is soft, you'll fuck it up.

#2 cast iron is brittle, you'll likely chip it

#3 BDC, which is the only place a 4 foot crowbar can exert any leverage without simply rotating the crank isn't going to tell you dick about bearing wear anyway

#4 I could go on, but it would all be "whooosh"

Quote


The reason he said CS engined startomatics had gone out of favour was that they didnt produce enough power and spares were very expensive most people wanted more kilowatts.



Bullshit
They produced enough power for anyone who didn't need more power, and lo and behold the sub 5 KVA gen set market is more active than it ever was.
Spares were listed in the book, along with prices, and they were actually pretty cheap. Especially as they were rarely needed. A fucking car battery was half a weeks wages back then, so stop using todays economics to try and justify something that just wasnt so back then.

Quote


The guy I bought the startomatic from was not a mate. It was an advert in ad trader the spare engine was in the corner and looked like it had been there for years. I didnt say you could buy an engine for 500 quid 5 years ago you deduced that. It was probably nearer to 10 he was then running an air cooled twin 7kw startomatic and had been for a few years. The 4.5 was just his standby unit.He sold it because he had just got an inverter and battery setup and had power 24/7.



You could buy a CS engine for 50 quid 5 years ago, dad lent our old set to a mate and told him to keep it rather than haul it back, I sold one in 1985 for a leather jacket with fringes, a couple of pints of beer, and the thing I really wanted in trade, a b44 that had seen better days

in february this year I paid 300 quid for a complete 100% working and functional with negligible wear s-o-m

Quote

 
Anyway you are a nasty person  to make personal attacks. Threats to hit me with a crow bar who do you think you are.I contribute to this forum not to blow my own trumpet you made this personal.



I laughed at an engineer when I was an apprentice because he made a stupid mistake, I got a fist in the face, because I saw the mistake and didn't tell him, and because I wasn't fit to laugh at him.

If you picked up the wrong tool to do a job, or used a tool inappropriately, it was snatched out of your hands and flung at you.

You never ever ever repeated the mistake, or lazy attitude.

You deserve to be beaten with your crowbar, not because it is mechanical vandalism of the first order, though it is and that is justification enough in my book, but because the pain you feel will open your eyes to the fact that using such an inappropriate tool in such a dreadful way is going to damage the work, and damaged work can go wrong in unpredictable and nasty ways, and injure or kill anyone unfortunate to be nearby at the time.

that is called criminal negligence
Quote


You write crap  Nortons never had jampot suspension AJS and Matchless did. Fact



Norton ES2 was often referred to as jampot, btw dr john, _the_ norton single specialist, who lives up the road from me, who I have bought bike from in the past, who builds bikes for sheene amongst others, is the one you need to argue this point with.

BSA never made a model called the "Stinkwheel" either, but you can just as easily and accurately say that back in the day the same term was used for ducati (cucciolo) and vincent (firefly) but no doubt some arse will come out of the wood work to tell you you are talking shite.

BTW I bought my jampot norton from the late stan thomas of relubbus, ex isle of man fame, he called it a jampot norton too, I guess he was wrong as well
Quote


Where do you get 3/8 UNC treads on a lister. Answer nowhere all the threads on lister cs engines are either BSW or BSF so where do you get off on posting on this site that the threads on listers are UNC even the thread anglle is wrong so you are a vandle join the club. I seem to remember ypu singing the joys of using your dads old taps to clean the threads on your repared cylinder. Do you get off on passing false information.



1/ apart from the 1/2", BSW and UNC are the same TPI, one is 55 degrees and one is 60 degrees, but they will "fit", though hex and spanner sizes are not equivalent.

2/ I have full sets of taps and dies for BSW, BSF, BA Cycle UNC UNF BSP BSPT etc etc, you get the picture, why would I pick up and use the wrong one?

3/ The listers that were ordered for south east asia came with metric threads mainly, and some JIC for the ancilliaries, lister were like that, they'd build what you ordered.

4/ if as you say all the threads on a lister are BSF or BSW, who fitted all the BSP?

5/ if you read that I used a 3/8" UNC tap on my lister, you must also have read where I used it, on the barrel to hold the brackets I made up for the Dennis radiator, and they are UNC, not BSW.

6/ Any other arguments you want to pick about my set that you think you know more about it than me?
Quote


And another I saw your pictures of your startomatic a while ago they are not there now Whats all that crap in your control cubicle Ive seen a few over the years and ive never seen one like yours I think you put some crap in it to make your pictures look good the kit in lister boxes is much more substantial. It dosnt look anything like the ones in the manual that you made available.



Yes that's right, I went to old electrical boot sales and cobbled together soem heath robinson crap and took pictures of it and claimed it was the insides of my boxes.

much easier than simply taking pictures of the insides of the boxes of my 100% working and original s-o-m

I you had a clue you would realise that the rare thing to happen with s-o-m sets is to put two side by side and find them to be identical...... andy on here bought one, different alternator to mine, no control boxes but different alternator ergo different boxes, my mate bought one, another different alternator and another set of different boxes, binnie has just bought one, yet another different alternator and different set of control boxes, thats four bought this year I know of, and no two the same.

see that thing I said above bout anything else about my set you were going to tell me I'm wrong about

see that other thing I said above about listers essentially running a bespoke production line on the cs series


Quote


Also on your mig welding of the cylinder anyone could tack little bits of chicken shit all round a crack then grind it down with a grinderette and make it look nice.



Yes, they probably could, or I could use blu tac and simply photoshop the picture and convince everyone I'm the next I K Brunel


Quote


You say a time served welder looked at your job and said it was good How did he test it xray ultrasonic no he just looked.



no, I said a CODED welder, devonport docks, nuke powerplant rated, amazingly competent welder, and yeah, he looked, and touched and so on, no machines, just an experienced eye

of course he could be wrong and you who have only seen a picture on a web page could be right, I used rhode island red shit

Quote

 It cannot be a safe repair cast iron and steel do not weld together



Clearly, you are again correct, if the scram rods fail to engage properly and the core overheats and pressures within the containment vessel peak we could be looking at another chernobyl, on the other hand seeing as it is a unpressurised thermal syphon water jacket on a 6 BHP diesel that is never going to dissipate more than 1500 watts into said water jacket, and given that water + ferrous metals = rust which is several times larger than the primary compound, which is why leaky pipe threads rust tight, and given that it didn't leak a drop or blow a bubble with 15 psi of air and soapy water we might just avoid a china syndrome


Quote

How many hours have you run your engine like this with a decent load on it. I bet you havent even done that.



Bugger all, it did about 4 hours at 3 kw

Again you are probably right, when doungeness trips out and the grid dumps that extra few hundred megawatts on the lister it might just fail

Quote


The square bar on the valve lifter assembly is in the wrong position its should be on the top hole on the bell crank where the 2 spings fit.



Next time I speak to bob bell (he is somewhere near the top of engineering nowadays at listers) I'll be sure to point out to him that they built my engine wrong, maybe he will issue a recall of all s-o-m sets and make them all identical to the one you have.

Quote


IF you are going to contribute get your facts correct

Mick 

why, it doesn't seem to bother you.
--
Original Lister CS 6/1 Start-o-matic 2.5 Kw (radiator conversion)
3Kw 130 VDC Dynamo to be added. (compressor + hyd pump)
Original Lister D, megasquirt multifuel project, compressor and truck alternator.
Current status - project / standby, Fuel, good old pump diesel.

listeroil

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Re: My God there is some crap going on here.
« Reply #54 on: November 01, 2006, 11:32:06 PM »
Hi Guy

Did it never occur to you that the shut down delay on start-o-matic sets after no load wasn't in case farmer turned another light on, but to equalise the temps inside the engine before shutting down?


Here again you show your ignorance. What delay on shut down. You disconnect load and the fuel control solonoid releases under spring pressure closes the rack and inserts the decompressor. The set takes about 1 min to run down and is left in a decompressed postion ready to start next time. Is this enough time to equalise the temperature in the engine? A pure figment of your imagination there is no shut down delay.


start-o-matics are rarer than rocking horse shit stateside, you may have noticed that is why everyone is buying chinese heads to go on their listerOIDS
there are also some pretty smart people in these forums who can read the s-o-m schematics and cobble together an electronic equivalent for less than it would cost to buy and ship over a set of s-o-m mechanical control boxes, and get a more electrically efficient system out of it to boot


You miss the point again. I dont suggest that people buy startomatic boxes from here to convert thier listeroids. What I said was if you are buying a startomatic in the UK make sure you get it with all the bits. Whats wrong with that?  Ask Andy what he would prefer.
US purchasers of UK startomatics want to get the best bit of kit they can. Why would they buy a lister in the UK and then cobble together a modern equivalent, when they could get one with all the correct original bits If they ask the correct questions.
Also what point is there in having a more electrically efficient startomatic system. Its a generator and the original system only takes about 10 watts to operate it. Why bother about better efficiency its only 10 watts on a 2500 + watt generator who cares.


I you had a clue you would realise that the rare thing to happen with s-o-m sets is to put two side by side and find them to be identical...... andy on here bought one, different alternator to mine, no control boxes but different alternator ergo different boxes, my mate bought one, another different alternator and another set of different boxes, binnie has just bought one, yet another different alternator and different set of control boxes, thats four bought this year I know of, and no two the same.



I was talking about your bullshit control box not other peoples. But if you want to go there.

Andys generator  a 1954 somac with a type N alternator  no top box or startomatic box
Binnies generator   is a October 1940 war time generator and a lot earlier design
Your Mates I cannot coment on You give no details year, alternator type,or power output 2.5kw 3.0kw or 4.5kw?
My  first      2.5 kw SOMAC  1951 with a type K alternator plus cast aluminium startomatic box
My  second 2.5 kw SOMAC  1956 with a type N alternator  plus cast aluminium startomatic box
Your generator is a 1956 SOMAC with a type N alternator plus  cast aluminium startomatic box

Andys alternator IS a N type  the same as yours. My second SOMAC same year as yours same N type alternator all of these machines are of a similar age and operate on the same control gear.
My 1956 2.5kw startomatic box has got the same internal componants as the pictures in the 1952 startomatic manual which you offered to this group also the 1951 unit has got the startomatic box with the same componants. Yours look nothing like mine or the ones in your manual or any of the other same style cast ali boxes that Ive had the pleasure examining. Please post pictures of the inside of your control cubical again I noticed they wernt there when I went for a look. Binnies generator was produced in 1940 during the war the control gear on his set is of an older design and not really relavent to this type of cast ali box.
In 1958 lister introduced the 8/1 engined 4.5kw startomatic and the 6/1 engined 3kw startomatic Both these machines use the steel control cubical and this is the same one that was used untill the end of production. 

More soon  Mick


GuyFawkes

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Re: My God there is some crap going on here.
« Reply #55 on: November 03, 2006, 11:10:47 AM »
Hi Guy

Did it never occur to you that the shut down delay on start-o-matic sets after no load wasn't in case farmer turned another light on, but to equalise the temps inside the engine before shutting down?


Here again you show your ignorance. What delay on shut down. You disconnect load and the fuel control solonoid releases under spring pressure closes the rack and inserts the decompressor. The set takes about 1 min to run down and is left in a decompressed postion ready to start next time. Is this enough time to equalise the temperature in the engine? A pure figment of your imagination there is no shut down delay.


Yeah whatever, you're right and I'm wrong, and since I never made up, invented or discovered any of my knowledge, that means that everything I learned from everyone else is also wrong, it also means that everyone who can read an electromechanical schematic and clearly see the delay line built into the original lister design is also clearly wrong.

Remind us of your electrical or mechanical engineering qualifications and experience again.

I seem to have inadvertently confused you with an idiot who uses 4 foot crow bars on internal components.

Quote

start-o-matics are rarer than rocking horse shit stateside, you may have noticed that is why everyone is buying chinese heads to go on their listerOIDS
there are also some pretty smart people in these forums who can read the s-o-m schematics and cobble together an electronic equivalent for less than it would cost to buy and ship over a set of s-o-m mechanical control boxes, and get a more electrically efficient system out of it to boot


You miss the point again. I dont suggest that people buy startomatic boxes from here to convert thier listeroids. What I said was if you are buying a startomatic in the UK make sure you get it with all the bits. Whats wrong with that?  Ask Andy what he would prefer.
US purchasers of UK startomatics want to get the best bit of kit they can. Why would they buy a lister in the UK and then cobble together a modern equivalent, when they could get one with all the correct original bits If they ask the correct questions.
Also what point is there in having a more electrically efficient startomatic system. Its a generator and the original system only takes about 10 watts to operate it. Why bother about better efficiency its only 10 watts on a 2500 + watt generator who cares.


If it only takes ten watts to operate it, how come they are always warm to the touch, like there is at least 1 to 200 watts being dissipated inside?

How is it that MOSFET technology with sub microsecond rise times is suddenly outperformed not merely in overall efficiency, but also in switching speed and accuracy, so that the old electromechanical control system not only consumed less power but caused the alternator to generate more efficiently too?

This is really intriguing, because I have seen (not s-o-m admittedly) old gen sets with electro mechanical controls systems have them replaced by modern electronics and the gen head temperarure has dropped by several degrees, which, naievely, I assumed was because the electronics was switching faster and more accurately than the electromechanical controls and generating less waste heat in the head.... but then I'm not a sparky, you obviously are, par excellence.


Quote


I you had a clue you would realise that the rare thing to happen with s-o-m sets is to put two side by side and find them to be identical...... andy on here bought one, different alternator to mine, no control boxes but different alternator ergo different boxes, my mate bought one, another different alternator and another set of different boxes, binnie has just bought one, yet another different alternator and different set of control boxes, thats four bought this year I know of, and no two the same.



I was talking about your bullshit control box not other peoples. But if you want to go there.

Andys generator  a 1954 somac with a type N alternator  no top box or startomatic box
Binnies generator   is a October 1940 war time generator and a lot earlier design
Your Mates I cannot coment on You give no details year, alternator type,or power output 2.5kw 3.0kw or 4.5kw?
My  first      2.5 kw SOMAC  1951 with a type K alternator plus cast aluminium startomatic box
My  second 2.5 kw SOMAC  1956 with a type N alternator  plus cast aluminium startomatic box
Your generator is a 1956 SOMAC with a type N alternator plus  cast aluminium startomatic box


I can't speak for your two sets, I ain't seen em, andys alternator and mine are completely and utterly different, or rather they are as similar as a 1960's ford cortina and a 1980's ford cortina, which is to say not even remotely similar unless you are a doofus who knows next to nothing about them, but has owned and driven a few of them.


Quote

Andys alternator IS a N type  the same as yours. My second SOMAC same year as yours same N type alternator all of these machines are of a similar age and operate on the same control gear.
My 1956 2.5kw startomatic box has got the same internal componants as the pictures in the 1952 startomatic manual which you offered to this group also the 1951 unit has got the startomatic box with the same componants. Yours look nothing like mine or the ones in your manual or any of the other same style cast ali boxes that Ive had the pleasure examining. Please post pictures of the inside of your control cubical again I noticed they wernt there when I went for a look. Binnies generator was produced in 1940 during the war the control gear on his set is of an older design and not really relavent to this type of cast ali box.
In 1958 lister introduced the 8/1 engined 4.5kw startomatic and the 6/1 engined 3kw startomatic Both these machines use the steel control cubical and this is the same one that was used untill the end of production. 

More soon  Mick



like I said, don't tell me, tell bob bell, he's current head of engineering at listers, I'm sure he'd appreciate your expert input.


===============================

Some years ago I took a job lecturing in engineering at a local college, the head of the department of engineering didn't recognise me so didn't realise that he used to buy cars from my uncle and used to bring his MG midget which he himself could never keep on the road or in tune to the workshop for regular fixing of things that had been done wrong.

So he never realised that I knew he used to run a tool hire shop, no doubt he was mustard at chainsaws and lawnmowers, but that ain't engineering.

So one day he is taking the piss out of the class dummy, who wasn't actually dumb, just a farmers son who grew up using machinery, and dummy farm boy asks a question about 2 stroke diesels.

head of engineering department brays with laughter, and says there is no such thing, entire class joins in, laughing at dummy farm boy.

I'd already had run ins with this asshole, over a girl who he ignored cos she was a girl, so he had her sat on the bench ( a no-no in itself) while we played best friends with the cool lads in the class, yet the girl was the first one to grasp anodic protection in galvanic corrosion in one of my classes, while the boys could just about grasp how to put spoilers and big speakers in their ricers, but she had tits so she had no place in an engineering course eh...

anyway, I wait for laughter to die down and suggest head of department calls general motors and puts them on the speakerphone for all the class to hear, I'll pay for the call.

why would I want to do that, he asks

well you wouldn't really, I say, because general motors have been making, amongs other things, detroit diesels, since before he was born, they were reknowned in wartime for being noisy, so noisy they were useless in things like sherman tanks because the germans could hear them coming from miles away, no element of surprise, and one of the reasons they were noisy was because they were two stroke diesels.

he starts huffing a puffing

I go on to tell him when he has finished that call he can take the class down to the railway station a mile away, where the whole class can watch and lister to non existent two stroke diesels in the form of rootes-lister DMUs and full size deltics running up and down the tracks.

the class is sat there, mouths agape

the reason I got sacked was because I then pointed at farm dummy and said " and YOU think HE is the stupid one, he is already more of an engineer than you will ever be."

I guess I should have kept my mouth shut and taken the 27 quid an hour I was being paid, and let the system continue to destroy classfulls of engineering students at a time.
--
Original Lister CS 6/1 Start-o-matic 2.5 Kw (radiator conversion)
3Kw 130 VDC Dynamo to be added. (compressor + hyd pump)
Original Lister D, megasquirt multifuel project, compressor and truck alternator.
Current status - project / standby, Fuel, good old pump diesel.

GuyFawkes

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Re: My God there is some crap going on here.
« Reply #56 on: November 03, 2006, 11:21:08 AM »
Hi Guy

Did it never occur to you that the shut down delay on start-o-matic sets after no load wasn't in case farmer turned another light on, but to equalise the temps inside the engine before shutting down?


Here again you show your ignorance. What delay on shut down. You disconnect load and the fuel control solonoid releases under spring pressure closes the rack and inserts the decompressor. The set takes about 1 min to run down and is left in a decompressed postion ready to start next time. Is this enough time to equalise the temperature in the engine? A pure figment of your imagination there is no shut down delay.


Yeah whatever, you're right and I'm wrong, and since I never made up, invented or discovered any of my knowledge, that means that everything I learned from everyone else is also wrong, it also means that everyone who can read an electromechanical schematic and clearly see the delay line built into the original lister design is also clearly wrong.

Remind us of your electrical or mechanical engineering qualifications and experience again.

I seem to have inadvertently confused you with an idiot who uses 4 foot crow bars on internal components.

Quote

start-o-matics are rarer than rocking horse shit stateside, you may have noticed that is why everyone is buying chinese heads to go on their listerOIDS
there are also some pretty smart people in these forums who can read the s-o-m schematics and cobble together an electronic equivalent for less than it would cost to buy and ship over a set of s-o-m mechanical control boxes, and get a more electrically efficient system out of it to boot


You miss the point again. I dont suggest that people buy startomatic boxes from here to convert thier listeroids. What I said was if you are buying a startomatic in the UK make sure you get it with all the bits. Whats wrong with that?  Ask Andy what he would prefer.
US purchasers of UK startomatics want to get the best bit of kit they can. Why would they buy a lister in the UK and then cobble together a modern equivalent, when they could get one with all the correct original bits If they ask the correct questions.
Also what point is there in having a more electrically efficient startomatic system. Its a generator and the original system only takes about 10 watts to operate it. Why bother about better efficiency its only 10 watts on a 2500 + watt generator who cares.


If it only takes ten watts to operate it, how come they are always warm to the touch, like there is at least 1 to 200 watts being dissipated inside?

How is it that MOSFET technology with sub microsecond rise times is suddenly outperformed not merely in overall efficiency, but also in switching speed and accuracy, so that the old electromechanical control system not only consumed less power but caused the alternator to generate more efficiently too?

This is really intriguing, because I have seen (not s-o-m admittedly) old gen sets with electro mechanical controls systems have them replaced by modern electronics and the gen head temperarure has dropped by several degrees, which, naievely, I assumed was because the electronics was switching faster and more accurately than the electromechanical controls and generating less waste heat in the head.... but then I'm not a sparky, you obviously are, par excellence.


Quote


I you had a clue you would realise that the rare thing to happen with s-o-m sets is to put two side by side and find them to be identical...... andy on here bought one, different alternator to mine, no control boxes but different alternator ergo different boxes, my mate bought one, another different alternator and another set of different boxes, binnie has just bought one, yet another different alternator and different set of control boxes, thats four bought this year I know of, and no two the same.



I was talking about your bullshit control box not other peoples. But if you want to go there.

Andys generator  a 1954 somac with a type N alternator  no top box or startomatic box
Binnies generator   is a October 1940 war time generator and a lot earlier design
Your Mates I cannot coment on You give no details year, alternator type,or power output 2.5kw 3.0kw or 4.5kw?
My  first      2.5 kw SOMAC  1951 with a type K alternator plus cast aluminium startomatic box
My  second 2.5 kw SOMAC  1956 with a type N alternator  plus cast aluminium startomatic box
Your generator is a 1956 SOMAC with a type N alternator plus  cast aluminium startomatic box


I can't speak for your two sets, I ain't seen em, andys alternator and mine are completely and utterly different, or rather they are as similar as a 1960's ford cortina and a 1980's ford cortina, which is to say not even remotely similar unless you are a doofus who knows next to nothing about them, but has owned and driven a few of them.


Quote

Andys alternator IS a N type  the same as yours. My second SOMAC same year as yours same N type alternator all of these machines are of a similar age and operate on the same control gear.
My 1956 2.5kw startomatic box has got the same internal componants as the pictures in the 1952 startomatic manual which you offered to this group also the 1951 unit has got the startomatic box with the same componants. Yours look nothing like mine or the ones in your manual or any of the other same style cast ali boxes that Ive had the pleasure examining. Please post pictures of the inside of your control cubical again I noticed they wernt there when I went for a look. Binnies generator was produced in 1940 during the war the control gear on his set is of an older design and not really relavent to this type of cast ali box.
In 1958 lister introduced the 8/1 engined 4.5kw startomatic and the 6/1 engined 3kw startomatic Both these machines use the steel control cubical and this is the same one that was used untill the end of production. 

More soon  Mick



like I said, don't tell me, tell bob bell, he's current head of engineering at listers, I'm sure he'd appreciate your expert input.


===============================

Some years ago I took a job lecturing in engineering at a local college, the head of the department of engineering didn't recognise me so didn't realise that he used to buy cars from my uncle and used to bring his MG midget which he himself could never keep on the road or in tune to the workshop for regular fixing of things that had been done wrong.

So he never realised that I knew he used to run a tool hire shop, no doubt he was mustard at chainsaws and lawnmowers, but that ain't engineering.

So one day he is taking the piss out of the class dummy, who wasn't actually dumb, just a farmers son who grew up using machinery, and dummy farm boy asks a question about 2 stroke diesels.

head of engineering department brays with laughter, and says there is no such thing, entire class joins in, laughing at dummy farm boy.

I'd already had run ins with this asshole, over a girl who he ignored cos she was a girl, so he had her sat on the bench ( a no-no in itself) while we played best friends with the cool lads in the class, yet the girl was the first one to grasp anodic protection in galvanic corrosion in one of my classes, while the boys could just about grasp how to put spoilers and big speakers in their ricers, but she had tits so she had no place in an engineering course eh...

anyway, I wait for laughter to die down and suggest head of department calls general motors and puts them on the speakerphone for all the class to hear, I'll pay for the call.

why would I want to do that, he asks

well you wouldn't really, I say, because general motors have been making, amongs other things, detroit diesels, since before he was born, they were reknowned in wartime for being noisy, so noisy they were useless in things like sherman tanks because the germans could hear them coming from miles away, no element of surprise, and one of the reasons they were noisy was because they were two stroke diesels.

he starts huffing a puffing

I go on to tell him when he has finished that call he can take the class down to the railway station a mile away, where the whole class can watch and lister to non existent two stroke diesels in the form of rootes-lister DMUs and full size deltics running up and down the tracks.

the class is sat there, mouths agape

the reason I got sacked was because I then pointed at farm dummy and said " and YOU think HE is the stupid one, he is already more of an engineer than you will ever be."

I guess I should have kept my mouth shut and taken the 27 quid an hour I was being paid, and let the system continue to destroy classfulls of engineering students at a time.
--
Original Lister CS 6/1 Start-o-matic 2.5 Kw (radiator conversion)
3Kw 130 VDC Dynamo to be added. (compressor + hyd pump)
Original Lister D, megasquirt multifuel project, compressor and truck alternator.
Current status - project / standby, Fuel, good old pump diesel.

listeroil

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Re: My God there is some crap going on here.
« Reply #57 on: November 03, 2006, 09:24:24 PM »
Guy


Yeah whatever, you're right and I'm wrong, and since I never made up, invented or discovered any of my knowledge, that means that everything I learned from everyone else is also wrong, it also means that everyone who can read an electromechanical schematic and clearly see the delay line built into the original lister design is also clearly wrong.

Show me where? in the SOM schematic where the delay circuit is to stop the engine from stopping untill temperatures have equalised as you stated.
The only delay on a SOM is the thermal trip which operates if the starting circiut is on for too long. This is because if you run out of fuel whilst running the set slows down and starts motoring itself round so the thermal delay trips the set out. It also has the same effect on starting if the set takes more than 45 seconds to start the thermal delay trips out and wont start again untill you manualy reset the trip. THERE IS NO DELAY ON SHUTDOWN  I suggest you read and learn the schematic before you drop yourself deeper into the hole you are creating. If you dig a hole for someone to fall into watch out you dont fall in it yourself.




Also what the point is there in having a more electrically efficient startomatic system. Its a generator and the original system only takes about 10 watts to operate it. Why bother about better efficiency its only 10 watts on a 2500 + watt generator who cares.


If it only takes ten watts to operate it, how come they are always warm to the touch, like there is at least 1 to 200 watts being dissipated inside?

How is it that MOSFET technology with sub microsecond rise times is suddenly outperformed not merely in overall efficiency, but also in switching speed and accuracy, so that the old electromechanical control system not only consumed less power but caused the alternator to generate more efficiently too?

This is really intriguing, because I have seen (not s-o-m admittedly) old gen sets with electro mechanical controls systems have them replaced by modern electronics and the gen head temperarure has dropped by several degrees, which, naievely, I assumed was because the electronics was switching faster and more accurately than the electromechanical controls and generating less waste heat in the head.... but then I'm not a sparky, you obviously are, par excellence.

Again you miss the point

I talking about the power cunsumed by the SOMAC system not the power required to energise the field windings and charge the batteries. The heat produced in the top box or the control cubicle depending on what model  is from the field winding resistor and the charge control resistor. I have no doubt these could be replaced with modern componants But nothing beats the rugged simplicity of 2 big fat resistors. Who wants transistors circuit boards multiple things to go wrong. When you can have a big fat wirewound resistor that you can rewind if it burns out.




Clearly, you are again correct, if the scram rods fail to engage properly and the core overheats and pressures within the containment vessel peak we could be looking at another chernobyl, on the other hand seeing as it is a unpressurised thermal syphon water jacket on a 6 BHP diesel that is never going to dissipate more than 1500 watts into said water jacket, and given that water + ferrous metals = rust which is several times larger than the primary compound, which is why leaky pipe threads rust tight, and given that it didn't leak a drop or blow a bubble with 15 psi of air and soapy water we might just avoid a china syndrome

You might have the pleasure of having a nuclear power station pluged into your arse.
My lister is my power station  and if the containment vessel fails the power station goes into melt down. I supply power for myself and 5 other light users 7 days a week and it is a big deal for me and I would not trust your repair. However if you made a metal plate larger than your repair area you could stick it on the side of the block with some bathroom silicone sealer and tie it on with baling twine this I would be happy with as if your repair failed the silicone would hold it all in place.


Bugger all, it did about 4 hours at 3 kw

I wouldnt dream of running such a harsh test on a 60 year old 2.5kw startomatic head. This is vandelism of the first degree 3kw for 4 hours thats 20 percent overload I hope you dont suggest anybody else test there 60 year old alternators like that.



Did it never occur to you that these engines clearly will run with no oil pump for some time, PROVIDED ALL OTHER THINGS ARE EQUAL AND ADEQUATELY MAINTAINED because they were designed that way with the splash lube system.

Try and understand this brainless. If the oil pump fails for whatever reason no oil will get into the trough under the crankshaft when the dipper throws out all the oil and it is not replenished there is nothing to provide lubrication to anything all the oil ends up in the sump which is lower than the crankshaft trough. A splash lube system only works if theres any oil for it to splash in do you understand this. Like I said mine ran for 6 hours and it was locked solid the next day Maybe the Indian crankcase design is better than listers because it only has one sump and the TRB engines run without oil pumps
 

Mick