Author Topic: Rack adjustments  (Read 3823 times)

dkwflight

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Rack adjustments
« on: September 19, 2006, 01:06:10 AM »
Hi I have had some problems with the adjustment of the rack and governor.

I have tried various adjustments of the rack to try to achieve a stabile and responsive engine.

The best so far seems to be to adjust the rack on cylinder 1 with the shut off lever up. I have the rack positioned so the lever has some pressure on it with the rack pushed all the way in, low or fuel off. then the other rack is adjusted to a similar point to get even exhaust temps.

The engine reacts to load changes quickly, but I still don't get a full fuel position with a heavy load.

I suspect the shutoff lever raises the swing arm too high.  Does this correspond with your experiences?

Thanks
Dennis
28/2 powersolutions JKSon -20k gen head
Still in devlopment for 24/7 operation, 77 hours running time

dkwflight

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Re: Rack adjustments
« Reply #1 on: September 20, 2006, 02:18:26 AM »
Hi Is there anyone who has gone through these adustments?
The lame manual (Copy of an  original) does not go into the rack adjustments.
I am looking for some dimensions for the fuel shutoff cam. Diameter and amount of offset or travel.
Dennis
« Last Edit: September 20, 2006, 02:32:55 AM by dkwflight »
28/2 powersolutions JKSon -20k gen head
Still in devlopment for 24/7 operation, 77 hours running time

listerdiesel

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Re: Rack adjustments
« Reply #2 on: September 21, 2006, 09:27:26 PM »
Hi Is there anyone who has gone through these adustments?
The lame manual (Copy of an  original) does not go into the rack adjustments.
I am looking for some dimensions for the fuel shutoff cam. Diameter and amount of offset or travel.
Dennis

Which engine, which fuel pump?

Setting a twin up does involve some 'trickery', but it isn't too bad a job and I think the Lister HA and other books with multiple pumps give some details.

One thing to remember (probably teaching Granny to suck eggs!) is that if the governor linkage is at all tight or overloose then you won't get a stable speed. Almost any wear in the linkage will introduce slop which results in hunting and other problems. Listers in particular suffered from the governor linkage binding in the timing cover on many engines as that area of the engine had no real positive lubrication.

Peter

t19

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Re: Rack adjustments
« Reply #3 on: September 22, 2006, 01:06:40 AM »
Yeah I was looking at my SOM to see how to adjust things, but the linage set up is much more complicated than I have found on other straight 6/1's.

So how do you adjust it?  I have not yet started it- waiting on a fuel tank.  But looking at the assembly it moves but not very well.

So if it is worn, how do you fix it??  Call Lister for the parts?
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dkwflight

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Re: Rack adjustments
« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2006, 01:32:38 AM »
Hi
Power Solutions- mostly JKSon parts I think. 130mm bores
Labeled 28hp at 1000rpm
I am running at 650rpm
These are the numbers
Mico pump
9 410 032 034
BDC= 9.7 + - 0.4

At this point I still am around 50hrs on the engine.
The linkage felt sloppy I replaced some of the pins with 3/16" roll pins. I checked the resistance in the linkage after the roll pins were installed. They helped with the looseness in the linkage. I oil the shaft where it enters the governor houseing daily.

When I was trying different setups i would get the same temps in the exhaust with an infared thermometer by adjusting the rack on the off side from the governor.
The last adjustment , I outlined in the first post. The rack responds with a full fuel position with about a 4-5hz change from no load to full load.
I am useing a lighter than stock spring on the rack.
Next I guess I will buid a setup like utter powers mod with the hook on the spring mount pin.
Dennis
28/2 powersolutions JKSon -20k gen head
Still in devlopment for 24/7 operation, 77 hours running time

listerdiesel

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Re: Rack adjustments
« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2006, 05:12:18 AM »
Yeah I was looking at my SOM to see how to adjust things, but the linage set up is much more complicated than I have found on other straight 6/1's.

So how do you adjust it?  I have not yet started it- waiting on a fuel tank.  But looking at the assembly it moves but not very well.

So if it is worn, how do you fix it??  Call Lister for the parts?

No, you can effect decent repairs with pretty basic equipment. The clevis pins wear so they can be replaced, and if you cannot get exact replacements then you can drill/ream out the holes and fit metric sizes, just make sure they are free with no slop or binding.

The bush through the governor housing doesn't wear much in my experience, but does suffer from lack of lubricant.

Because it all hangs out in the breeze, it does tend to get 'weathered' and suffers accordingly.

The pump rack itself is usually OK, but eventually it will develop slop and start to cause problems, then you are into a replacement or get the body machined and fit bushes.

Peter