Author Topic: Crankcase studs too short?  (Read 9237 times)

meteorscatter

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Crankcase studs too short?
« on: September 12, 2006, 07:11:46 PM »
Hello everyone,

I just got my first 6/1 home and my first thing after un-crating was to take the crankcase cover off. After cleaning the crankcase I had a look around inside the case, I found that the studs that fasten the mainbearing housing to the crankcase  were not flush to the inside of the case. I removed  four studs (two from each side) to  determined how far the studs actually penetrated into the crankcase.
My inspection tells me that on my engine the studs only penetrate the crankcase by six threads(less than 1/2") there is plenty of room for these studs to go in flush to the inside of the crankcase by another 1/2".
So I decided to replace these studs with longer ones that will at least be flush with the insde of the case.

I'm wondering if any of you have seen this or are your studs flush to the inside?

regards,
Dirk

xyzer

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Re: Crankcase studs too short?
« Reply #1 on: September 12, 2006, 07:57:46 PM »
I need to look at mine to give you a good answer....I replyed because the studs are probably British threads and the correct studs may be hard to find....if you find a sorce let me know!
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cujet

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Re: Crankcase studs too short?
« Reply #2 on: September 12, 2006, 09:52:46 PM »
Mine are a bit short also. However it is OK (I think) due to the fact that the crankshaft bearings are located by the thickness of the gaskets and the machined surface of the bearing carrier. Therefore the studs do not have running loads on them.

Chris
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bitsnpieces1

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Re: Crankcase studs too short?
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2006, 04:15:52 PM »
  Someone will know the actual numbers, however, as a general rule of thumb if you have at least 4 FULL threads engagement you have most of the strength available.  It's actually something like 80-90%.  If the strength of the bolt is high it should be plenty.  If you have really crappy bolts it might not be enough.  Even poor quality cast iron has more than enough strength. 
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Quinnf

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Re: Crankcase studs too short?
« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2006, 04:49:49 PM »
That's right.  Machinery's Handbook has a section on that.  Threads appx 1X diameter of the bolt develop full strength.

Those particular studs shouldn't be heavily loaded anyway.  If you want, double up two nuts and screw them in farther.  While you're at it, does the crankshaft turn freely?  It should.  Many of these engines come with the main bearing housings torqued down too tight.  The TRBs shouldn't be preloaded.  The spec (should be in your manual) calls for 0.010" of crankshaft end play.

Quinn
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meteorscatter

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Re: Crankcase studs too short?
« Reply #5 on: September 13, 2006, 05:45:34 PM »
xyzer,

My thread gauge tells me they are not American standard, so I assume they are British.

cujet,

I'm thinking that the bearing housing is located by a mating shoulder inside the machined crankcase, thus no load on the studs but then I have not seen one apart. Not sure what you meant by the gasket.

bitsnpieces,

It seems that I have either crappy and short studs (in my opinion) and or crappy theads I can thread the stud in as far as they go  and can shake the stud back and forth in the threaded hole.

Quinnf,

"Threads 1x the diameter"
My studs have exactly the 1x thread as the stud diameter so that makes sence. If I cannot screw them in further because there is only a half inch of thread on the stud plus it would make it to short to get a full nut on them.
Crankshaft turns freely end play is right on and the bearing housings were not over torqued I was able to remove the nuts without a problem, very loose actually a little push with a hand wrench and off they came.

Thanks all for the ideas/ help,

Dirk


Quinnf

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Re: Crankcase studs too short?
« Reply #6 on: September 13, 2006, 07:44:20 PM »
Dirk,

Some engines come with fasteners, e.g. nuts/bolts/studs and threaded holes that were made with worn out taps and dies.  My Ashwamegh is like that.  I ended up replacing most of the hardware with stuff I bought locally.  Thread gauge will probably indicate they're off when, in fact standard US nuts/bolts/studs fit just fine.

Threads on the plumbing fittings will be different, however.  British parallel pipe thread or BPPtaper depending on location.  The 1 1/4" female threads on the exhaust flange are one that require the British pipe thread.  I cut the nipple out of the exhaust silencer that came with my Ashwamegh engine and welded that to a 1 1/4" NPT nipple and made my own adapter.  Adapters can be bought at www.mcmaster.com  Search under British Pipe and you should end up looking at a page of adapters.

Rotsaruck!

Quinn
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xyzer

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Re: Crankcase studs too short?
« Reply #7 on: September 13, 2006, 08:36:54 PM »
xyzer,

My thread gauge tells me they are not American standard, so I assume they are British.

Dirk, What kind of a gage are you using? I have found they (or the British/Indian's) use a Bastard thread/inch. The dipper thread is a 5/16"-22 TPI (on mine).....there is no American standard in 5/16" that will work...5/16-18..24...32 is it! Measure the od and the threads per inch.....There maybe a close match in Metric or American standard. I was taught 1.5 X the diameter is the minimum thread engagement...But as mentioned it is not under a full load application.
Dave
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bitsnpieces1

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Re: Crankcase studs too short?
« Reply #8 on: September 13, 2006, 11:04:24 PM »
  This looks like a good place try Helicoils.  They are essentially a set of replacement threads to go in a hole.  Someone here should know more than I do about the sizes available.   
Lister Petter AC1, Listeroid 12/1, Briggs & Stratton ZZ, various US Mil. surplus engines. Crosley (American) 4cyl marine engine(26hp).

xyzer

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Re: Crankcase studs too short?
« Reply #9 on: September 14, 2006, 03:11:16 AM »
  This looks like a good place try Helicoils.  They are essentially a set of replacement threads to go in a hole.  Someone here should know more than I do about the sizes available.   
Next to finding a supplier of british threaded studs or a hungry machinist this is the best idea....you can get them in any size American std. or Metric.
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listeroil

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Re: Crankcase studs too short?
« Reply #10 on: September 15, 2006, 12:24:35 AM »
The thread on british lister main bearing studs  is 1/2 inch whitworth (BSW) 12 TPI.

The threaded portion of the stud that goes into the crankcase is 1/2 inch long ie 6 threads even though the crankcase is 1 inch thick. The nut that goes on the stud is 1/2 inch wide.

I am not sure what threads are on the indian engines as I haven't got one but  5/16 x 22 tpi on the oil dipper is 5/16ths BSF thread. Which is the same as the british ones. It seem like the Indian engines pretty much copied the british design.
All the threads on british lister cs engines are either BSW or BSF. This is a table BSW and BSF threads per inch and the link below is a good description of the british standard system.


BSW       TPI            BSF     TPI
1/4          20            1/4       26
5/16        18            5/16     22
3/8          16            3/8       20
7/16        14            7/16     18
1/2          12            1/2       16
9/16        12            9/16     16
5/8          11            5/8       14
11/16      11            11/16    14
3/4          10            3/4       12

http://www.timebus.co.uk/rlh/whitworth.htm

 In Britain, road vehicles, aeroplanes and  machinery until the 1970s used British Standard thread forms. The following families of threads existed;
miniature sizes known as British Association (BA). BA size numbers are in reverse. The lower the number, the larger the bolt size, so 0 BA is the largest and 16 BA is the smallest. BA sizes are mainly used in electrical equipment.
 
coarse threads known as British Standard Whitworth (BSW)
 
fine threads known as British Standard Fine (BSF)
 
The U.S. equivalents are the Unified Thread System formed by ANSI/NATO in 1948. These standards were agreed between Britain, Canada and the US and were based on the previous American National standard, except with rounded roots and optionally rounded crests. This composed the following:
miniature sizes below 1/4 inch (UNM), with roots from an old American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) standard
coarse threads (UNC)
fine threads (UNF), with roots from old Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) and ASME standards

Whitworth threads are used for most mechanical equipment in the RLH.

With the UNF/UNC system the number stamped on the wrench or socket is the dimension of the hexagonal bolt head measured across the flats (AF = Across Flats); so the wrench required for a 1/4 UNC bolt would have be stamped 7/16. Whitworth wrench sizes, however, indicate the size of the bolt, i.e., a wrench required for the equivalent 1/4 BSW bolt will have 1/4W stamped on it.

Whitworth heads are NOT the same size as the equivalent UNC/UNF - they are larger. For this reason, it is imperative that a set of Whitworth wrenches are purchased before working on any antique British machinery. Otherwise, expect rounded-off heads and busted knuckles, trademarks of the careless craftsman.

Whitworth wrenches and sockets are available through clubs that cater to British cars. It's also a good idea to get a set of taps and dies to fix the attempts of those who have gone before you in the vain attempt to convert, intentionally or otherwise, to SAE format.

Another area that causes confusion is the fact that some BSW/BSF nuts can be screwed on UNF/UNC bolts and vice-versa. Under NO circumstances should this be practiced. Most of the coarse threads share the same threads per inch, which means BSW nuts can be screwed onto UNC bolts and vice-versa (the exception to this being ½ inch, of which the BSW size has 12 threads per inch whereas the UNC size has 13). Whitworth and UNC/UNF thread forms differ greatly, the primary difference being the thread angle. Consequently, if these fasteners are interchanged, considerable loss of holding force, fatigue resistance and strength will result.

Some outfits in the US have been known to sell so-called Whitworth hardware, which has SAE sized hex heads mixed with Whitworth thread forms. This really only serves to cause confusion and increase the risk of the wrong equipment being used in future. Fully correct Whitworth fasteners are available in the US.
 
Abbreviation    Name              Introduced       Diameter/ Range      Thread angle, degrees    Notes
   l
   
BSW  British Standard Whitworth     1841              1/16 to 2.5 inches                     55                  Coarse
   
BSF   British Standard Fine                1908                3/16 to 1 inch                      55                       Fine
      
UNC   Unified National Coarse        1918                0.05 to 1 inch                      60
      
UNF   Unified National Fine               1918                0.05 to 1 inch                      60

If you wanted more thread engagement in the crankcase threads you could use 1/2 inch BSW high tensile steel bolts of the correct length. These are available here in the UK for worldwide mail order at (http://www.namrick.co.uk/browse.asp?PCID=7) and other UK suppliers. Helicoil kits are also available in BSW and BSF sizes overe here.

Mick

      


hotater

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Re: Crankcase studs too short?
« Reply #11 on: September 15, 2006, 12:59:41 AM »
meteorscatter--

If the studs are loose when screwed in it means somebody ran an American (13TPI) tap in the British (12TPI) hole.  Helicoil is the solution.  Spend the money and rent a MAGNETIC drill so you drill and tap straight. You'll nee a plate of 3/8 steel bigger than the TRB hole and a bar to bolt through on the bottom side.  That gives you a vertical drill "table" for the magnetic drill....

OR, strip it down to the case and take it an auto machine shop.  They'll charge by the hole..   Helicoil will be American thread, not British.
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meteorscatter

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Re: Crankcase studs too short?
« Reply #12 on: September 15, 2006, 01:10:56 AM »
Listeroil:

I'm going with your idea of replacing the stud with a bolt.
My studs are 1/2" diam. and 12 tpi so that would make it a BSW thread
I think?
The replacement bolt will be 2' long and that will give it another 1/4"
of thread into the crankcase housing. Hopefully that will tighten up
some of the slack with the sloppy threads as well.

Thanks all for the  response

Dirk

meteorscatter

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Re: Crankcase studs too short?
« Reply #13 on: September 15, 2006, 01:24:32 AM »
meteorscatter--

If the studs are loose when screwed in it means somebody ran an American (13TPI) tap in the British (12TPI) hole.  Helicoil is the solution.  Spend the money and rent a MAGNETIC drill so you drill and tap straight. You'll nee a plate of 3/8 steel bigger than the TRB hole and a bar to bolt through on the bottom side.  That gives you a vertical drill "table" for the magnetic drill....

OR, strip it down to the case and take it an auto machine shop.  They'll charge by the hole..   Helicoil will be American thread, not British.

hotator,

This is a brand new machine with zero run time so I hope your wrong about the different tap sizes. I would doubt that's the case but I've been wrong before.

hotater

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Re: Crankcase studs too short?
« Reply #14 on: September 15, 2006, 01:28:55 AM »
If a half inch American bolt threads into your hole you know it's so.   >:(
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Currently running PS-Kit 6-1/5Kw...and some MPs and Chanfas and diesel snowplows and trucks and stuff.