New to the Forum with a CS 12-2 in Portugal

[Portugal lister]

Hi VP, sorry for the late reply.

I gave the water channels a good clean with screwdrivers and pressure washer but bits of rust kept falling out.

In this region where i am there is a lot if xisto stone and iron in the water which rust metal parts very quickly so, against your kind advice, i plugged the large water opening in the head and filled the water channels with Sodium Carbonate in some warm water, left to soak for about 2 hours which is not a lot of time.
Then pressure washed it again,  and i think got all the lose stuff out now, then soaked water ways with some diesel spray.

When back together the water tank i have for cooling will be filled with rust inhibiting antifreeze/coolant so should stop any further rusting.
Normally the cooling tank was filled with river water but it has a lot of iron in it so i will have to use treated water from now on.

All the best

Alex, Gentles

Alex, please dont wanna be "GLORT" a person kicked out of the forum, for arsing forum members. And PeteDV is not helping!

Just clean up all as good as you can. You are in the right way, but dont be anxious.

We still have some gurus here - but some of them pass away with covid, and others are to old to type or see tiny letters on display - so go easy.

DONT PUT SODIUM ON LISTARD! forget sodium. clean jackets with jetwash, and after clean bores and put wd40 till being mounted.

For me so far so good. clearances and torque will be paramount.

Just my 5 cents for today.

Cheers
VP

[Portugal lister]

Hi to all,

I have not posted my update and photos of work i have done so far on the cylinders, heads etc but i will do.

But today i went to remove the camshaft and crankshaft, but before i did i wanted to check the "0" and "I" are correct and have noticed the camshaft looks to be 180 degrees our of alignment.

The engine started and ran very well so this leaves me confused.

The photos show the "0" on the crankshaft pinion and the idler gear line up and this leaves the camshaft gear 180 degrees out...... (the crank journal of the piston closest to the governor end is "down" not at TDC.)

Do any of you have any ideas why this could be, i have stopped further removal until i can see what is wrong.

Thanks

[sirpedrosa]

Alex, Gentles

Alex, the "0s" are correct, but they are facing outside, hence I made inside marks. Take look: https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8320.msg102265#msg102265

After that is straight forward.

Stay tuned!

Cheers.
VP

[Portugal lister]

Thanks VP,

I have marked the teeth with white marks so i can now see from outside when installing the crankshaft.

Today i started to install the crankshaft.

The new crankshaft center bushes were hard to fit into the lower cap, and also the upper support inside the engine, is this normal ?

The lower cap needed the bearing tapping in with a small hammer and a block of wood, it seemed very tight but fitted in eventually. And then fitted the locating screw.

The upper bearing needed to be held in place by hand until the crank center journal supported it and then i had to lift up on the crankshaft to get the bush to sit home.

so crankshaft now supported by both end caps and center cap is only tightened by finger to hold in place as the daylight was fading.

Tomorrow with day light i will check and then tighten the center cap bolts.... if everything looks in order

I will post some photos tomorrow.

All the best

[Portugal lister]

So this morning i have installed both crankshaft end housings with the original bushes as they were in perfect condition and i have the new ones for spares.

The end float is about 0.009 so within spec.

The crankshaft center bearing lower cap went into place without excess force when tightening the cap nuts.
When these nuts were tightened the crank was checked for free movement but when applying a small amount of torque to these nuts the crank becomes locked.
Backing off the nuts then allows free movement again.

Has anyone got any advice on this for me as the center journal measured good and ordered standard center bushes, confirmed bushes are standard size.

what sort of torque value should these center cap nuts be tightened to.... snug? a bit more than snug? tight or very tight?.... at the moment i have them done up just as the nuts go tight against the lower cap, so not very tight at all and then i meet resistance when turning the crank by hand grip only.

All the best

[sirpedrosa]

Alex, Gentles

Alex, one of two! add shims or file (special knife) the shells. (https://www.youtube.com/@VintageMachinery) to see how!

You can put blue marker (https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=10036.msg113272#msg113272) to see wehre are the excess of babbit.

You have a rajkot bushes, not NOS Lister OEM? Is that correct?

Already sent you the torque chart of Peter Forbes (RIP) but, here is  (attached) more info I got saved from their page.

Dindt got specs for center bush torque, but general knowledge leads a free movement without stiff and inside tolerance. I think!!

My 5 cents for today!

Cheers
VP

[Portugal lister]

Hi all
Thanks VP for the helpful comments.
I assumed the bush would be a better fit and not need adjusting as i was led to believe from my readings.

After your kind 5 cents i will remove crank and check bushes with marker and see where is the tight part.

Now i know the bearings need some adjustment, i feel happy i can "feel" the torque setting. But thank you, again, for the attached infor!

As the new bushes were very hard to press into the engine center brace and lower cap i thought i might have issues but i have not seen anything on people adjusting the center bushes, so i assumed they would not need any work to make them fit nicely.
I bought them from S.E.S and would think they are NOT OEM. Marked as standard but no Lister name.

I have sent them an email asking if the tight fit into the engine center brace and lower cap is normal.

All the best!

[olNick]

Anything new with your stuff?

Does the crank center bearing also have shims to adjust clearance? I dont remember

regards,
nick

[sirpedrosa]

Hi Alex,

Any news?

You are too quiet, and that is not good!

Cheers
VP

[Portugal lister]

hello all and to Sirpedrosa.

Yes it has been some time since my last post. I hope everyone is well.

 My trip to the UK ended being almost 5 months long.
I ended up finishing a 1954 Bentley R type and restoring the veneer woodwork on the interior but kept me there far too long.
I returned 3 weeks ago, right on the start of fire season.
So i have bought a new fire fighting water pump and a professional fire nozzle, this meant a lot of new plumbing work to get new pump to connect to water tanks etc and i have also covered our goat barns with water sprinklers so they will be safe during a fire.

Back to the Lister..

So i was working like crazy to get the Lister finished before leaving for the UK and only had time to run it once, started great and ran much better, the 120,000 liter tank filled quicker than ever, filling it in 3hrs20mins.

it had new oil, 15w40 but i will have to check later when down at the pump. oil filled to about 10-15mm below oil filler hole.

While i was away my son in law had started the Lister with no issues,
so since the rebuild it has been run 3 times with a total of 8 hours in 2.5 - 3.5 hour sessions.

Today i went to check the Lister for the first time since my return.......... and im now worried !!!

I found the fuel injection pump (opposite end from governor) was very wet with diesel and also on the floor.
I opened the sump and it is VERY overfull, with diesel

Now i am worried i will have destroyed all my work and the new bearings

Here is a video i have just taken, sump was over full by 5litres of diesel
https://youtu.be/yUlugb4GZOM

Here is a short video of its first run after the work. https://youtu.be/_LCV5uf_DdI

Just to add the sump never filled up this much before, i think cleaning the injector pump has made the leak worse and cleaning the grease away has allowed, I think, diesel to run down the side of the tappet and directly into the sump as the lower part of injection pump around tappet hold diesel.

To add to my luck my truck broke the cambelt last week.. and as fire defense is more important i am having to rely on friends for a lift to buy supplies.... My large tank is almost out of water so i will have to fill Lister with new oil to run it until i can get some new injector pump elements sent over.

Cheers

[sirpedrosa]

Alex, Gentles

That is not a huge issue. Just turn off the fuel tap.

And if it leak just a few drops, or need to prime after seat long time it will be a standard procedure.

That engine has its age - with natural ware - so act like it demands.

I think you could add another water pump, either to be redundant or to double flow rate.

By far the ute cam belt is  more needed now.

My 5 centes, and keep the good work.

Cheers
VP

[Portugal lister]

Good to hear from you sirpedrosa.

in 8 hours of running it has added 5 liters of diesel to the oil, that is too much in my opinion ?
I will order new fuel pump elements from S.E.P.

Funny you talk of a new water pump, i was looking at them today. but i have been advised not to increase the pump as the extra pressure, (it pushes water 250 meters and up 30 meter high), it could break the pipes underground .... i dont need more problems

hope all is well with you.
Alex

[sirpedrosa]

Hi Alex,

Didnt realize it drip so much when running! Yes, take care of that IP, in order to put same power at both cylinders - one is running cold.

Cheers
VP